JHP56G3V6 General Electric Range - Instructions

When the part arrived, I used the diagram provided by the website to see what really needed to be done. Keep in mind, if you're doing it correctly and disconnect the range from the power source, it's going to be dark inside the oven. Get a good flashlight or electric lantern. There are two screws holding the element in. Mine were 8MM hex-head screws, but be prepared for anything. I removed the with a socket attachment/adapter to my cordless drill/screwdriver, and the part came right out. Some insulation will come as well - don't panic. Installation is similar, just in reverse order. Pay attention to the feet on the element. Make certain they are down. Don't lean on them when you think you're finished and discover that you installed it upside down like someone I know, and have to pull it out to correct this.

Removed 2 nuts holding the baking unit to the oven back, removed 2 nuts holding wires in place, installed new unit following procedure backwards. It takes longer to get the tools,take the oven door off, and take racks out than it does to remove and replace the baking unit.

Took Switch panel off range. Disconnected Infinite switch. Reinstalled infinite switch.. Replaced panel. Repair was very simple and self explainatory.
Knott County Housing Authority Maintenance Personnel

I removed the unit easily with anut driver, however the unit also supported the thermo-link. I had to use the hack saw to relieve a small opening for the thermo-link to pass through. No real problem. Then a few holes to be drilled to attach the 'link' to the base of the broiler unit.

BUT-I went into the website listed on the box. GEAppliances.com Guess what? Their price was twice yours!!

Broiler element arrived at my door 3 days after ordering which was nice. Apparently the billing dept. is out of the USA so don't be surprised, like I was, to find a suspicious looking charge for a currency exchange fee (mine was 42 cents). I had to drill two new screw holes in the base of the new element in order for it to fit my oven. I also had to use heavy wire snips to cut off about an inch of the top of the new element base. The female electrical connections also had to be spread out with needle nose pliers since the new element connections were slightly thicker. With all of the issues I had I was frustrated and it took about two hours. On the other hand, the part works perfectly and was priced right. Hopefully it will fit perfectly out of the box for your oven.

I looked on Youtube for a how to video. It was accurate but the screws in my oven were NOT phillips head screws, they turned out to be sheet metal screws. I used pliers at first which was a PAIN but then I borrowed a socket wrench from the neighbor that was MUCH better!! I had wanted to do it myself to prove to my husband and son that I could but I ended up needing their help because the screws were so tight.... But we did the repair ourselves!!!

Was able to slide it right in

I had purchased a partselect heating element for my larger lower oven previously so I knew what to expect on replacement.

I shut off the power to the stove from the electrical box. Next I removed both the cooking racks from the oven. Then the side removable panels and bottom as this is a P7 removeable panel oven. This gave ne easy access to the nuts/screws holding the element in place. Once the screws were removed I pulled out the element and disconnected the leads. I replaced the new piece reversing the process.

Just pushed the new timer knobs onto the stem. They fit and now I can set the oven timer without having to use a pair of pliers to grip the stem and turn it.

Two of the knobs fit perfectly.

The stem for the the clock was broken off and there was not enough of the stem left for the new knob to fit.

Unplugged the elements and removed the corroded drip pans and replaced them with the the new ones, which fit perfectly.

Unplugged bad surface element and plugged in replacement.

The Surface Element on our GE stove made in the mid 70's finally gave up and would not heat. I went to several of the big home improvement stove with not luck in finding the right heating element for our stove so I turned to a local appliance stove that carries GE products, they did sell me an element and asured me it was the correct one, but once again the element was the wrong one. Then with a simple google search for GE replacment parts I found partselect.com. With the detailed description and images with measuring grids I was able to quickly find the correct heating element for me stove. I am very pleased and the stove is back to 100%.
Thanks partselect.com

Turned off power to the oven at the circuit breaker. Pulled the old heating element from the back lower wall of the oven. Noted the position of the wires (right terminal attached to the red wire, left to the black wire). Removed small bolts holding the element to the wires using pliers. Attached the new element using screw driver. New element came with screws, not bolts. Pushed the element back into place and restored power. Tested to make sure everything worked. Everything works and I ran an oven cleaning cycle. Noticed that indicator light above the temperature selctor is always on now even when oven is in the OFF position. Not sure if that's related to the change or to the oven cleaning cycle I ran. In any case, oven seems to work normally.

Took off the door, took out the two screws in the back of the element. Then pulled the element forward, then removed the two wires. Then put it all back together with the new element.

Removed the burned-out element with appropriate tools; installed new element with same tools.