JGSP23BEY2BB General Electric Range - Instructions

I replaced the igniter under the knob.

First, I cleaned all the glass from the stove. then I inserted the replacement glass into the slots and screwed the bolts back into the stove. It took me about 1o minutes to do repair. It waS VERY EASY..

Shut of electric supply. Remove knobs and open top cover of cook top by removing two screws near each burner and replace switch.

With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.

One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.

REMOVED 5 PHILLIPS SCREWS
REMOVED BROKEN RT CAP
INSTALLED NEW END CAP
REINSTALLED THE SCREWS
PROJECT COMPLETE

I removed the screws on thr frount console. I removed the end caps and removed the wiers from the control and replased it . I reversed the pross to resamble the stove.

The top is all glass so I took my time. There was about 12 screws and double sided tape. A lock washer holding the igniter on. It also gave me a chance to clean the hard to get to places. Your price was almost half of what a suppier here and getting it would have been 2 weeks compared to your 48 hours to my door. Thanks again

By myself

Followed the instructions

Removed front oven door, pull out bottom drawer and top burner glass panel to reduce weight. Pulled out from cabinet, shut off gas, removed gas line, removed two output gas lines from gas regulator, removed gas regulator, removed input pipe fitting from old gas regulator and installed it on new regulator using pipe compound on threads, installed gas regulator on stove, attached two output gas lines to new gas valve, attached gas line, checked for leaks, and then installed Top, front door and lower drawer, done. 2-3 hours.

the broiler would light once in awhile and it appeared that the igniter was working. But it wouldn't let enough current through to open the gas valve. The nuts holding it on broke off but drilling them out and replacing with two sheet metal screws worked ok. Don't know how that will hold up to the heat though. The wiring was easy to connect ( wire nuts) but the lead wires from the stove are not that long so all the operation had to be done way in the back of the oven enclosure.

There were 3 ? Types of black burner dishes and 3 types of burner caps. The information I collected did not hint about the different sizes. We sent back 2 caps for the proper ones. Meantime 3 of the dishes were on backorder. I installed the one dish I had. Later the 3 backorder dishes arrived. I began to install them when I discovered I needeed more than one size. I am a retired aerospace engineer. I had to use my file and hammer to fit experiences to make up for my parts ordering deficiency. The new dishes, mounting holes, were different than the one I had previously installed . So in order not to return them and wait an additional few weeks , I filed the mounting holes sufficient to be able to mount them. Then I put the next part on and discovered that it did not fit the new location of the igniter . I filed the approx 1/2" dia hole from round to a "d"configuration on 3 parts , that allowed the igniter to function in two of the new locations . The fourth and smallest burner required an additional 1/4" spacer to move the gas supply riser closer tothe igniter. The burners are all working as new. No fire hazards. My wife does not know the goofs I made. I had to use some inventive methods and I'm still her hero. I would caution all di it yourself people to become very familiar with the parts they need. They may all look the same to the novice but there are slight differences that should require replacement and could take away your hero status.

This repair was super easy. I removed the two screws holding the oven sensor in place, pulled the sensor from the oven wall to expose the two wires attached to the sensor cut and spliced in the new sensor as per instructions. The supplied wiring kit made this splice very easy. I then reinserted the wires and sensor from the oven wall, put the screws back in place tested the oven. Oven now works like new and I got bonus points from a happy wife!

Removed 4 screws from the panel that attaches the glass to the door along with 2 screws that attach the handle replaced the glass reattached the handle and door panel, all within 15 minutes.

I removed the oven door from the range. Removed the broken handle and replaced the new one.