JB968TH1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

First I removed the oven drawer. Verified that the support clips would rest correctly on rail, then review installation document with supports to locate alternate location for replacement supports. I did have to personally locate 2 fastners not provided with the supports ot complete installation. After installation, oven drawer opens and closes smoothly.

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

Pull oven out away from the wall, unplugged from outlet, removed center cover by removing 5 sheet metal screws. disconnected thermostat sensor from control cable. Opened oven door and removed screw that holds thermostat sensor. Pulled thermostat sensor out replaced with new sensor. Plugged sensor in to control cable. Replace panel and screws. Then my wife made me clean the oven. I recommend making the repair when your wife is not home.

I thought it was the burner thermostat, so I replaced the burner unit. By coincidence, the ceramic outer portion of the burner was cracked in two places, but otherwise intact. That was not the problem, though since the new burner did the same thing as the old one. Then I new it was the Infinite Control Switch, so I ordered it. Replacing it was easy. I turned off the cooktop circuit breaker and made sure no power was going to it. It is powered by 240 volts so you need to be very careful to turn off the power before doing any servicing on it. I then carefully pried up the glass cooktop and lifted it out, so it wouldn't break. By taking off the control knobs, and removing several small Phillips head screws all around the metal cooktop frame and just under the edge of the glass cooktop, I could lift the glass top off from the cooktop, and place it on some newspaper so it didn't get broken. It is important to keep the rest of the cooktop upright. The burners are not fastened down, and only gravity holds them in place. They normally sit on two springloaded pins, one on each side, and the weight of the glasstop pushes them down to their proper setting. So don't mess with them, and make sure each side remains on the two pins after you're done and before putting the glasstop back on. As for the switch, you need to remove two small 1/4 inch metal screws (a socket is very handy for this), one on each side of a metal framework that holds all the switches. After removing that framework, I carefully turned it over and found the correct switch for the burner that wasn't working. In my case, it was the closest right hand burner, which is also the biggest and has the option of having a big, small or both elements turned on, depending on how you turn the control switch. I then carefully pulled off each wire lead, with a needlenose plier to avoid damaging them, and immediately put each wire onto the corresponding same connection on the new switch. Take a close look at the wires on the old switch to make sure you plug them into the same connectors on the new switch. It's pretty straightforward. There may have been one or two small screws holding the switch onto the framework, but I don't recall right now. It was very easy to see how to remove and then reattach it. Then reverse the above steps and reinstall the cooktop, turn on the power and you should be in business!

it went well as compared to getting a new ~~800$ cooktop and ~~150 to install, I took a shot for 30$ bucks and it worked great!! problem solved and great support ! !! thanks for all your help

Turn off breaker, disconnect electrical wiring, remove cooktop from courter top, turn over , remove switch.

The part was exactly what we needed. However, we didn't find the video online to show how to replace the part until we were almost finished. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ovwcJhfWHXQ) If we had found the video, it would have saved us a lot of time because we undid more of the door than we needed to. Also, the video tells you exactly what size tools to use. However, taking the door more apart allowed us to clean more of the inside of the door. So, watch the video before you start, and also, be prepared to spend time cleaning the insides of the door. Also, when we put the door back together, we accidentally turned the front glass panel of the door upside down and it wasn't noticeable until we had put the door back on the oven. So, we had to take it apart again to fix it. All said, we're very happy with the new part. Thank you PartSelect!

Not only did we (my wife did help) replace the dual element but afterwards we realized the control switch was not functioning properly and so that was replaced as well, and now our appliance works as intended. Also the instructions, are helpful as well. We used care not to force or over tighten anything and with two sets of eyes and the extra hands everything went much better. Anything that was removed was noted as to it's location and replaced .

Installed the new brackets at the back of the drawer with the 2 screws provided. The new rear mount design is much better than than the old side mount.

Remove two screws hold cook top down: prop it open with piece of wood. (TURN OFF POWER TO RANGE FIRST!). Carefully make diagram of where wires go: remove and replace.. piece of cake!

Easy

replaced Plastic Guides

Pull out Range and unplug from wall receptacle. Open Range door and remove 2 hex head screws with pliers. Screws located at top inside of range door opening. They hold the burner top in place. Slowly lift front of top burner section up and at same time slightly lifting back of burner section since it rests on 2 pivots. Prop front of burner section open, tilted back, with a piece of 2X4 maybe 2 1/2 ft. long. Make sure the 2X4 is located at the front/middle of range [resting on insulation] and at front middle of burner top to keep it opened firmly and balanced. You have about 5 or 6 wire clips to remove from elec. posts. Use pliers to gently remove clips. Tag the wires with tape to remember which wires go onto the new burner. Or take a close up picture with your phone to remember which wires go where. There are 2 philips head screws holding clips that hold the burner in place. The clips are slipped into a slot to help hold them in place. Mark the 2 slots so that when you remove the clips you will remember which slots to put them back into. You will need to hold the burner with one hand while you are removing the last clip as it could just fall out. Remove old burner and install new burner at same angle as was the old burner. You will have to make sure that the 2 clips are in the slotted openings first as you can not put them in place after the burner is installed in the opening. Reinstall the 2 screws into the 2 clips. Hold the electrical pole fittings with one hand while you gently reattach the electrical clips with a set of pliers. You may need to wiggle the clips back and forth to get them on securely. Remove the 2X4 and gently lower the burner top. The hardest part is now you have to slightly lift the back of the burner top while the front is lifted up and maneuver the back to drop down over the 2 pivots. Then the burner top will drop down in place so that the 2 screws in the range door opening can be reinstalled. I don't know of an easy way of making the top of the burner section fall down over the pivots except trial and error. Maybe use a flashlight to look back where the pivots are located while the top is propped open. That may help you visually to see what you are trying to do.

1.Move range in position to access electrical wall disconnect and unplug. 2.Remove two 5/16 screws (located under top fwd. edge of cook top, Lift entire top assy up from front and prop with appropriate device(short 2x4 about18 inches long works well) 3.Remove two small phillips screws securing two metallic keeper devices holding burner assy in place. This should allow burner assy to be removed.4.Disconnect electrical spade connectors from ceramic terminal blocks on old burner assy.CAUTION: [SPADE CONNECTORS FIT TIGHTLY DO NOT PULL ON WIRES USE PRYING FORCE WITH FLAT SCREWDRIVER DIRECTLY ON TERMINAL].Remove connectors one at a time re-connecting to same location on new assy. Reassemble in reverse order.

Turned off power. Opened range door, removed 2 screws that held top in place. Took a photo of the existing wiring for reference. Removed old burner. Be careful with spacers & springs. If dropped, they will be hard to locate in the insulation. Replaced wiring connectors & verified proper location with photo. Closed cover, replaced 2 screws & turned on circuit breaker.