JKP86BFB General Electric Range - Instructions

replaced it with the new one.

-unplug
-remove top and front covers
-unplug wire connectors from heating assembly
-remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way
-remove metal stand from dry
-pull out heating assembly
-install new one in reserve order

Take off 6 screws of back cover of the range, unplug the white wire. Go to the inside of oven, pull out racks. At the top of the oven is your Broiler element, in the center you will see a rod sticking out with one screw holding it in place. Take out screw and pull temperature sensor out toward you. Reverse steps to put it back together.

Removed the control panel, one screw at the top. Removed 2 screws on the door switch holder and removed the door switch. VERY EASY.

Pulled out oven and removed the 3 bolts on the back panel exposing the connector to the temp sensor. Unclipped it. Went in oven and removed the bolts inside as well. Used a wire coat hanger to feed the new sensor line through the back and reversed the steps. Didn’t think it would work but it’s not always a bad element.

The breaker was tripped but fuse was ok on testing. I kept the fuse for possible future repairs. To access door switches and fuse on this model JVM1850CF001, remove 2 phillips screws at top. Then slide the grill to the left (toward hinges) about 1 cm and it should easily come off forwardly. Remove phillips screw underneath grill attaching the main panel. Lift the panel 1 cm and it will easily come off forwardly - I let it hang by the electrical cords. Now you can see/discharge capacitor(s). Remove 2 star screws inside door to loosen/remove/access door switch frame. 3 switches are held in the frame by plastic tabs - one tab per switch. One is primary and 2 are secondary door switches. I removed each switch one at a time by lifting tab, pulled off the electrical connector and filed the male metal connection on each switch. I replaced the switch with a loose button (loose and didn't click as crisply compared to the other switches) with a new secondary door switch. It was the lower secondary switch. Worked like a charm after that.

Ordered the oven control board and installed the new board by removing one wire at a time.

One should be used to working with PC boards or hire repairman. Open microwave door, remove two torx screws from front panel edge. Panel left side will swing out. Right side hinges can be lifted up and left to disengage from oven. There's also a bottom plate hinge with two screws in groves. Slide plate so the screws reach a wide part of the grove and the plate will lift off. Remove the plate from the control panel. There's two flat ribbon connecters, pull up on the top edge of the connectors to release the cables. Remove the screws holding the two sets of pc boards to the panel. The panels can be hung form their wires, they don't weigh much. Remove the latch button from the panel, there's a pin/hinge on one side and some plastic fingers on the other. Examine everything to figure out how to remove the button. Carefully pry the hinge apart enough to remove the button and there's two keepers that also need to be pried apart to release the button. There should be a spring too, the new panel needs them. Reassemble in the opposite order. Hint: when reinserting the flat cables, the connecter top/latch tends to fall in, make sure it's pulled up away from the board to insert the cable easily. Once in, push down on the latches to lock the cables in place. The screws holding the boards are self tapping. The new panel won't have threads so you may want to insert the screws first to cut the threads to make it easier to reinstall the screws in mounting the boards to the panel. Otherwise the screws take a lot of torque which can result in driver slipping and board damage. Other hints, turn off power during the installation. Also, boards are static sensitive, keep touching the metal of the oven when handling the boards or use a grounding strap. Lastly, take a picture before removing screws so you put the right ones back in the right holes.

I first read where someone had the same problem. Their solution was a burned-out fuse. I ordered a new fuse...installed it and that did not solve my problem. I revisted PartSelect and read how Marla (from Arlington, TX)solved her problem. I purchased a secondary switch and when it arrived, I made a copy of Marla's instructions and followed them to the letter. I installed the new secondary switch into the secondary space, put everything back together and the oven STILL DID NOT WORK. I had to take the latching panel apart again and test each switch to see if there was another bad one. I found that the third switch was burned out. So I took the new switch out of the second slot and installed it into the third slot. I tested the switches before reinstalling the latching panel. This time everything worked. So I put everything back together, reinstalled the microwave on the wall, tested it again, and everything worked perfectly.

removed the glass turning plate. removed the broken roller guide. replaced with the new one. I am very happy with not only the ease of fixing the problem, but how quickly I got the replacement part. I will use PartSelect again!!! And I will tell my friends.

Very fast very easy. Part was exact match!

saved $250 and had it done two weeks before repair service could do it

remove cover, unplug secondary door switch (top switch)
remove switch from holder, install new switch, plug in wires, replace cover, very easy. door switches are a common problem
with microwave ovens.

Replaced the fuse. Result; did not fix the problem.

Once I opened up the back of the range, the sensor wires where there and burnt just like your info said. One nut to take off in the oven and the sensor came right out and the new one went right in. The oven works great, cooked the turkey today. The worst part of the repare was the cleaning behind and under the range, it hasn't moved since it was put in 6 years ago. Very pleased with PS.