JHP65G3D1 General Electric Range - Instructions

Hi, First unplug appliance ,remove the oven door by pulling it up from the hinges, giving room to work deep inside , remove the two screws that hold the element in place. then pull the element out carefully not to stress the wires and replace the element . Note after all is done test with an oven thermometor :)

I looked for a new terminal locally, but no one had s terminal that would fit a 40-year old range. I went on line to PartSelect and could not find my model range, so I looked through all the terminals listed on the website (about 500) but found only one that was close to mine. Mounting holes did not match, but it had 3 connectors with 220 capability, so I ordered it. I requested express shipping by UPS and thought I paid for the extra charge. When I got notification of shipment. I saw it was via ground. It went from Louisville to Jacksonville to Clearwater, FL. I ordered it on Thursday night and received it the following Tuesday night. Meanwhile, we had no stove to cook on. When the part came, it took two days to get the contractor back to our condo. He drilled new holes on the mounting box and jerry-rigged the wiring to make it fit. The range is now working, but I was disappointed in the delay in shipping which I agreed to express shipping.

PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.

took cover off back of stove. Removed two screws and wires that were attached to the element. Removed old element and installed new element. An easy repair.

First I turned the Breaker off for the Oven. I removed the two screws that hold the element/cover plate. I pulled the element out to get access to wires attached to element & removed screws holding wires to element. I reversed the process to put back together.

The repair was fairly easy. Removed the 2 screws that hold the plate to the oven and then pulled out the element and loosen up the screws that connect it. Installed the new element and re-attached the element to the plate and secured the plate back to the oven. This site was very easy to use and very helpful and I will use it again if I need another part.

Shut off the power at the circuit breaker, removed the two nuts holding the element to the oven, unscrewed the two screws connected to the wire leads, removed the bad element and reversed the process to replace with the new one.

Removed two socket head screws form inside oven rear wall. Pulled element out and disconnected two screws attaching wiring. Replaced with new.

Just like your example said/turn the power off to the oven/remove the screws that hold the element in place and then I pulled th element out a little ways and disconnected the wires/reconnecting took a little longer only because it was hard to see/but I connected the two wires and put the screws back in and it worked. Saved me a lot of money/my husband wanted to get a new double oven

Unplugged stove, removed front door, carefully removed two screws holding the cover plate of the element. Gently pulled the element out about 3-4 inches removed the two screw attaching the electrical wires to the element , making sure the wires did not pull back into the stove. Removed old element, attached new element to the electrical wires with the new screws received with the new element. Carefully pushed the wires and element back into place making sure the insulation was also in place. Re-attached the cover plate with the two screws I had removed. Plugged the stove back in and tested the element. Replaced the front door .... job complete!

Just wanted to add that the part came in two days, super mailing time, thanks!!

At 76 I no longer do my repairs so I asked my daughter's friend to do it for me.

This range is about 30 years old and I was thrilled to still be able to get the bake element, which burned out about a month ago. I was doing research to buy a new stove when a cousin, from out of town, called to say they were going to visit the following week. No time now to get a new one installed. "partselect.com" was the fastest way. THANK YOU!

First off, I want you to know I'm an obese 56-year female without tools. But, I knew where to borrow those.

I first shut the power off to the range. I then disconnected the 2 screws that hold the element and pulled it out to reveal the 2 screws which connected the wires. I unscrewed those and removed the bake element. I double checked the stove model and bake element part # at the GE website and ordered it from "Partselect.com". It came in about 3 days. I then reversed the order of the above and it was done.

Here are some challenges I encountered..
1) The oven door was in the way making it uncomfortabe to get to the back of the stove.
2) Those $#%& screws are so short I kept dropping them.
3) The wires in the back bend easily. Be careful.

That's about it. It was a pill but not a real problem. It sure beat buying a new range before I've decided on which one to buy.

Pulled range out from the wall. Unplugged cord from outlet. Removed old knob, removed two phillips screws a very top of chrome trim, removed six nut-head screws from back to reveal the switches...removed two set screws from the front at knob base. Visually checked to make sure wiring post of new switch matched the old one. There was enough slack in the wiring to remove one wire at a time and connect it to the new switch in its appropriate place. Put new switch in the panel and secured with the two set screws. Select the bushing that would take up the slack for the old knob to fit on the new switch stem. Held new stem at its base with pliers and used another pair of pliers to snap the stem at appropriate length. (The new stem could not be broken off short enough to have the knob as flush to the panel as the other knobs...this was the only negative factor in the repair) Replaced nut-head screws and phillips screws. I was especially pleased with the quick delivery of the part...even without special shipping rates I received the part in less than 18 hours from the time I ordered it online!

removed the end caps from the stove panel, unscrewed the back, unscrewed the old switch, CAREFULLY noting which wire went to which terminal, removed the wires.
Reversed the process. took a little longer because I felt compelled to do a thorough cleaning while I was there.

The terminal blocks become brittle and carbonized with age resulting in very poor contact with the electric burners. The burners lose capacity to heat fully and eventually stop working.

Unplug the stove first! There is a risk of dangerous electrical shock if the power is not disconnected.

Repair involves removing the burner and the drip cup to expose the terminal block. Remove one screw on top to detach the block from the stove top. Remove the insulating cover and the clip that holds it in place on the back of the block. Detatch the two wires. At this point the age and brittleness of the blocks became apparent as they crumbled in my hand while removing the terminal screws. One screw had several layers of carbonization covering it and required needle nose pliers to get a firm grip in order to loosen it.

Inspect the wires to make sure there are no holes or cracks in the insulation.

Attach the wires to the new terminal block using the new screws provided. The new kit also included quick lock screw fastener clips to place over the holes in the stove top. It's a good idea to use these for more secure mounting and better grounding. Place the new terminal block under the stove top and mount it with the new screw provided. I had to unbend the mounting clip slightly to get it to fit, but it was easy enough to do with bare fingers.

Replace the drip pan and the burner. Plug the stove back in.

A pot of water now boils in under a minute compared to the 5 to 10 minutes it used to take.