JGBP86DEMW General Electric Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Robert from Fallbrook, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
The oven burner would not ignite
Removed oven door, warming drawer, oven bottom, oven burner, disconnected wires to igniter. Also, instructions said to turn off gas supply at pressure regulator, {little red lever.} I also turned off main gas supply, and un-plugged power cord. Removing the igniter and replacing with new one was easy. Splicing wires and putting everything back together was also pretty easy. The only problem was when I tryed to open the gas to the pressure regulator, the little red lever popped off. Very cramped area to work in, could'nt get a tool to fit in there. So, I got some nylon string, made a loop, looped it on the notch on the pin, pulled it out and got the little red lever back onto the pin and then was able to open the valve. There is no gas going to the burner if that lever is not on holding the pin out, and you can't put that lever back on unless the pin is pulled out. If I ever do that job again I will not touch the red lever, I will just shut off the main gas supply. It would have been a pretty easy fix if that lever would not have popped off.
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- Customer:
- Edmund from HEWITT, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WB34K10019, WB34K10015
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
Box was hard to open I needed to use scissors
I lifted up the grates.....then I picked up the old drip pans and put them in the garbage.....then I took the new drip pans and placed them on top of the stove....then I replaced the grates. I can send pictures if you need help. I'm sorry I did not take a video. it was very hard to pull the packing tape off the box. I needed to use Scissors. Good Luck...
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- Customer:
- Edward from RIVERHEAD, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB1K5, WB01K10008
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
18 year old gas range, just replaced oven igniter, and tried repairing burner igniter
I replaced the oven igniter, discovered the floor of the oven had rusted through, so I replaced that as well. The burner on top of the stove would not light as it was designed, and because the 12 screws that hold the range top and burners in place were rusted in place I ended up buying a new range because removing the screws on the burners proved impossible, even when I tried to drill them out with a lefthanded screw removal tool. I should have just kept lighting the burner that would not light, with a match. That was a repair too far, that forced me to buy a new GE Range and throw this one in the trash. The igniter, oven floor replacement was easy. The burner igniter after 18 years proved impossible. .I installed the 18 yr. old burner grates on the new range, but the drip pans would not fit the new stove. New GE Range instructions were near useless. Do Not trust them, especially the Orifice change details NG to LPG.
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- Customer:
- David from HIGHLAND PARK, IL
- Parts Used:
- WB4K1
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
gasket door replace
the instructions given for this part were not 100 % accurate, our oven door required multiple, dis assembly and was unable to complete the task, local handy men refused to come to assist since the job was already started, it appears I will now need to buy a new oven , I was disapointed in the help because had we known we had the more diffcilult oven, would not have attempted, I did give the correct model and serial number to the person when discussing this part
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- Customer:
- Donald from Elkhart, IN
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
everything worked on the stove except for the oven
Since I'm not very mechanical I had my service manager from work come to my house and fiqure out the problem. By using an electrical meter he found that there was no continuity in the igniter. So being the mechanical guy I am I watched him take out 2 screws that secured the the piece of metal that covers the bottom part of the stove. He pulled that part out and from there it was 2 screws to release it from the back of the stove and 2 more to disconnect the igniter from the burner tube. We ordered the part and it arrived in 3 days. I opened the box and to my dismay it was broke. I called to tell them that it was broke and they ordered me a new one right then. I had that part the next day very grateful for that. I was able then to put it back together myself and it worked. Wife is extremely happy with me.
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- Customer:
- GLENDA from HENDERSON, NV
- Parts Used:
- WB29X36765, WB29K10005, WB29K10003
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Missing Burner Caps.
Caps were shipping very quickly. Price was very reasonable. Very happy with parts-selects service.
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- Customer:
- Patricia from SAN JOSE, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB48T10095
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
oven racks very old and writing on knobs worn ff
Very was ti replace racks and knobs. Very fast mail service
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- Customer:
- Teddy from Bel Air, MD
- Parts Used:
- WB29X36765, WB29K10005, WB29K10003
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
GOT 1-SMALL 2-MEDIUM 0-LARGE CAPS
PLEASE BE ADVISED WHEN THEY SHIPPED THE BACK ORDER 1 -(taupe) LARGE CAP - RECEIVED 4 BLACK CAPS - 1-SMALL
2-MEDIUM 1-LARGE (ALL BLACK) - STILL LOOKING FOR
A LARGE CAP IN taupe color!
Received refund for 1-large cap
PROBLEM IS ALL OTHER PARTS ON THE GAS STOVE
ARE taupe in color - do not want black!
your advice?
2-MEDIUM 1-LARGE (ALL BLACK) - STILL LOOKING FOR
A LARGE CAP IN taupe color!
Received refund for 1-large cap
PROBLEM IS ALL OTHER PARTS ON THE GAS STOVE
ARE taupe in color - do not want black!
your advice?
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- Customer:
- Anne from OSSINING, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB29X36765, WB29K10005
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The burner caps were chipped and discolored.
I merely replaced the old caps with the new ones. It couldn't have been easier!
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- Customer:
- Gerald from WINTERVILLE, GA
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
lights blown out
replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer
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- Customer:
- Sally from Bakersfield, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB28K10025, WB28K10024
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Wrench set
broke tubes while cleaning under top
was still using back burners while waiting for parts (after safety check). I unplugged the electric for the igniters, raised top, installed tubes, checked for leaks with soap solution, closed top, plugged in electric tested burners. Got a big hug and kiss from my wife.
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- Customer:
- Jacklyn from HOWARD CITY, MI
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Oven igniter didn't work.
The bolts were below the base of the oven, and very difficult to remove and replace. The directions were not applicable to our unit. The good news was the igniter was correct, even though we had to adapt the bracket.
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- Customer:
- Victor from Hathaway Pines, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Broiler would not ignite.
1) Verified it was the broiler igniter that was damaged.
2) Removed the oven door, the lower pot storage drawer and the top range panel.
3) Turned off the gas supply in the top range area. Pulled the electrical plug-in out of the lower electrical panel (behind the lower drawer).
4) Used the nut driver to remove the two (2) 1/4" screws that held the igniter to the back wall of the oven. I later read in the Use & Care Guide that this is easier to do if the broiler burner cover is removed first.
5) I pulled the damaged igniter away from the back wall, expecting to expose wire connectors or splicing but was only able to get about 6" of the two (2) insulated wires before I could not pull them any further.
6) Therefore, I cut the wires and, without a proper wire stripper, cut about 3/8" of insulation away in order to make a splice between the wiring from the new igniter and the wiring coming out of the back of the oven. Big mistake ..... do not recommend this without using a proper wire stripper! I must have cut into the existing exposed oven wiring on one of the wires such that when I used the twist-on to make the splice, most of the wires (those wound together to form one wire) were damaged and broke away. Unfortuantely I did not find this out until everything was put back together and we (my wife and I) did the test. No results!
7) I took everything apart again and when I tried to pull the wiring back out from in behind the oven wall, one wire came out with the twist-on in tact and the other came out "with no wire attachment".
8) I now had to figure out how to get into the back of the oven to retrieve the "lost connecting wire". It is quite simple when you know what you are doing but no instructions (that I had) advised that the upper back light gauge metal panels could be easily removed to expose the wiring. This was eventually determined and the connections were both made again in a more positive manner.
9) We (my wife and I) put it all back together and this time it was fine ..... just had to be patient while the gas purged the air out of the broiler burner line.
10) Lessons learned: GE made it easy "once you knew how it could be done". I suspect GE feels that service type people should be doing these things but with a 120VAC (vs higher voltage electric type ovens) system why not provide the info for the "do-it-yourselfers" as well?
2) Removed the oven door, the lower pot storage drawer and the top range panel.
3) Turned off the gas supply in the top range area. Pulled the electrical plug-in out of the lower electrical panel (behind the lower drawer).
4) Used the nut driver to remove the two (2) 1/4" screws that held the igniter to the back wall of the oven. I later read in the Use & Care Guide that this is easier to do if the broiler burner cover is removed first.
5) I pulled the damaged igniter away from the back wall, expecting to expose wire connectors or splicing but was only able to get about 6" of the two (2) insulated wires before I could not pull them any further.
6) Therefore, I cut the wires and, without a proper wire stripper, cut about 3/8" of insulation away in order to make a splice between the wiring from the new igniter and the wiring coming out of the back of the oven. Big mistake ..... do not recommend this without using a proper wire stripper! I must have cut into the existing exposed oven wiring on one of the wires such that when I used the twist-on to make the splice, most of the wires (those wound together to form one wire) were damaged and broke away. Unfortuantely I did not find this out until everything was put back together and we (my wife and I) did the test. No results!
7) I took everything apart again and when I tried to pull the wiring back out from in behind the oven wall, one wire came out with the twist-on in tact and the other came out "with no wire attachment".
8) I now had to figure out how to get into the back of the oven to retrieve the "lost connecting wire". It is quite simple when you know what you are doing but no instructions (that I had) advised that the upper back light gauge metal panels could be easily removed to expose the wiring. This was eventually determined and the connections were both made again in a more positive manner.
9) We (my wife and I) put it all back together and this time it was fine ..... just had to be patient while the gas purged the air out of the broiler burner line.
10) Lessons learned: GE made it easy "once you knew how it could be done". I suspect GE feels that service type people should be doing these things but with a 120VAC (vs higher voltage electric type ovens) system why not provide the info for the "do-it-yourselfers" as well?
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- Customer:
- Thomas from Middlebury, IN
- Parts Used:
- WB2X9154
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven did not heat
I took all of the oven racks out , then the bottom cover, over the element. I immediately saw the igniter coil was broken. I took the element out and disconnected the two wires. (I saw that the igniter coil was broken and knew that must be my problem. I got my manual out and found the part number and got on line and started shopping. I found part select, the price was fair and ordered it the same day. It was shipped out to me the same day I ordered it. Received it the next day and had the oven working again. Easy to order, great customer service, fast shipping department. Great job to all of you folks at Part Select. I would recommend PS to anyone that wants to save money and do it yourself. Go for it. tk middlebury IN.
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- Customer:
- Bruce from AKRON, PA
- Parts Used:
- WB21X5301
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Intermittent heat then no heat on oven element
With multimeter checked resistance of oven sensor. Specs called for 1100 ohms. It was off by 27 ohms. The sensor from Part Select had exact wire connection as original. Then just matter of undoing old and reconnecting with new one.
One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.
One unsatisfactory event. I asked Part Select why my clock did not work or light up(timer works ok) . Answer was: sorry we have no time to help you. That soured the otherwise happy experience.
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