JHP65G002 General Electric Range - Instructions

Two 1/4" srews to remove the element from its mount, two 1/4" screws to remove wires and then the reverse to install new unit. Delivery was super fast and the price was half the price of the local dealers. I will certainly be a repeat customer.
Gary T.

I removed the oven door and racks. After turning off the power I raised the old element up to be able to access the screws. I undid the two that connected the element to the back of the oven. After pulling the element forward, I undid the two screws that supplied power. I reconnected everything and, after turning the power back on, tested the element. It worked perfectly. It has been used quite extensively since then with no problems.

First I removed two hex nuts holding the element's faceplate to the back of the oven and pulled the entire element straight toward me a couple of inches, pulling the element's ends and connections into view. I unscrewed the two screws holding the element ends to their connections, connected the new element, pushed it back in place, and screwed the faceplate tight again. The most challenging part of the whole process was finding the part number for the GE oven (it's on the frame of the storage drawer underneath the stove).

My husband removed the two screws that hold the element in place. He then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. He then removed the old bake unit and replaced it with the new one. He reattached the wires and pushed the element into place. Then he put the two screws back in that hold the element in place.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Removed the element and replaced with the new. Reattaching the wires and securing the new element back in place with the screws provided. Packed well, shipped promptly, installed quickly. Super easy.
Thank you.

The terminal blocks become brittle and carbonized with age resulting in very poor contact with the electric burners. The burners lose capacity to heat fully and eventually stop working.

Unplug the stove first! There is a risk of dangerous electrical shock if the power is not disconnected.

Repair involves removing the burner and the drip cup to expose the terminal block. Remove one screw on top to detach the block from the stove top. Remove the insulating cover and the clip that holds it in place on the back of the block. Detatch the two wires. At this point the age and brittleness of the blocks became apparent as they crumbled in my hand while removing the terminal screws. One screw had several layers of carbonization covering it and required needle nose pliers to get a firm grip in order to loosen it.

Inspect the wires to make sure there are no holes or cracks in the insulation.

Attach the wires to the new terminal block using the new screws provided. The new kit also included quick lock screw fastener clips to place over the holes in the stove top. It's a good idea to use these for more secure mounting and better grounding. Place the new terminal block under the stove top and mount it with the new screw provided. I had to unbend the mounting clip slightly to get it to fit, but it was easy enough to do with bare fingers.

Replace the drip pan and the burner. Plug the stove back in.

A pot of water now boils in under a minute compared to the 5 to 10 minutes it used to take.

Removed the old drip pans and put the new ones in.

I couldn't find the oven model number so I just looked at the shapes from partselect.com. This would have been fine except I didn't know my Kenmore model had 4" leads so the one I ordered were only 2". I had to return the first element but the process to do this was FAST and EASY. With help I found the model number and had the correct part shipped. It took less than 5 minutes to install. It took longer to mop and clean behind the oven that hadn't seen the light of day in 10 years.

Using a nut driver, I removed the two screws holding the baking element to the firewall of the oven. I then pulled the baking element out exposing the two wires connected to it. I then used the same nutdriver to remove the nuts and detached the old element. I then connected the new element to the wires, pushed the wires inside the firewall and reattached the element to the firewall of the oven.
The time it took was literally a few minutes. Works like a new oven!

It was so simple, I turned off the breker to the oven, unscrewed two screws holding in the element, pulled out until the wire connetion was exposed. I unscrewed those two screws, then placed the replacement part, put the two screws on, pushed back the wiring and insulation.Final step was screwing two screws to hold the unit to the oven back. So simple! The part was ordered regular mail and still was here in 2 days. Will recommend to friends for sure!

Unscrewed the element from the oven,disconnected the two screws for the electrical and reverse the procedure to install new element. Took all of about 10 minutes.

The bake element in my 17 year old GE free standing electric range became defective. This element has 2 terminals -- black (240V) and white (neutral). While removing the element from the range, a 2nd black wire was pulled out of the back of the oven. This wire had a bare terminal connection and apparently had been loose behind the oven shell for all these 17 years. Inspection of this wire showed it carried 115V. I wrapped this wire with electrical tape and reinserted it into the insulation behind the oven shell.

The customer service at PartSelect.com is wonderful. They assisted me to located a part for a 40 year old oven. Took only a few minutes to take the old one out and put the new one in. Process was pretty self explanitory.

No. 1 thing I did is I unplugged power supply to oven, second- unscrewed two screws that was holding cover plate and removed cover plate with a set of pliers, pulled element out and unscrewed two screw with power wires and installed new element, tightened screws and re-installed cover plate, tested oven turning on oven and in a few seconds element got hot, job done!

First I turned off the breaker to the oven,
then I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I placed the new element in the oven, reconnected the wiring and replaced the two screws in the mounting bracket. I reset the breaker and turned the oven on to about 450 degrees for 30 minutes to burn off the new smell of the element. This job was very easy and I saved about $100 from paying a service to do it.