JGBP30WEHW General Electric Range - Instructions

PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.

remove the door,racks,cover over burner,burner,element,replaced element and rest in reversed order.

First I removed the botoom drawer.
Second, removed three 1/4 in (head size) screws and removed the reflector pan from the bottom of the oven.
Third I removed the three racks in the main part of the oven and then the two slot head screws that retain the oven floor. I then removed the oven floor.
Four, now that I had access to the ignitor, I removed the two 1/4 (head size) screws that mounted the ignitor to the burner.
Fifth I disconnected the wire plug which is located in the lower section of the oven. I was unable to route the wire with it's connector on out of the oven, so I just snipped the wires and took it out in two pieces.
Installation was just the reversal of this with the obvious exception of snipping the wires. I was able to route the wires differently so that I did not have to pass the connector behind any restrictions.
Finally afte all was reassembled, I did an ops check and everything worked just fine.

I bent the tubes very slghtly to rech the area of attachment. I first screwed them with my hand then tightened them with an adjstable wrench. It was really simple and fast.

My son lifted up cooktop, unscrewed the front plate to gain access to old tube burners, removed and replaced with new parts.

Remove the old tubes. Lift the lid NO MORE THAN FOUR INCHES. !!!!! Feel for the connections on the switch ends and attach losely. Carefully ( with some slight bending ) attach tubes to the burners. Tighten all connections. Do not over tighten.
The tubes broke originaly because , attempting to clean the area I lifted the lid too high.

Remove the sheet metal that covers the burner and the igniter. For me this was two screws located in the rear of the oven. Two 1/4 inch screws held the igniter in place. I then cut the wires on the faulty igniter as close to the porcelin as possible. I cut the clip off of the new igniter and stripped the ends of all 4 wires, splicing then together with the ceramic wire nuts that were included in the kit. I fed the excess wire to the rear of the stove and reattached the new igniter to its mounting bracket. Replaced sheet metal. Plugged the unit into the outlet and away it went. Worked great.

Got the general idea off a u-tube video. Very simple and would have been even easier had I used a 1/4 in nutdriver instead of socket. Removed 2 screws (flathead) on the lower cover of oven. Removed 1 nut holding shield. Removed 1 nut holding protective trap door on rear, pulled coupling through hole and disconnected. Removed 2 nuts holding ignitor. That's it. Replace everything in sequence and your done.

Easy

Followed the instructions

All it took was for my husband to remove the screws that held the part in place and disconnect the two wires. He then replaced the part, connected the wires and screwed the screws in. We turned the oven on and it worked perfectly.

This is our second part that we have ordered. The frist part was just as easy as the second.

First I unplugged the stove. I gently removed the two screws that hold the old element in place. I snipped the wires and then twisted the new wires with the stove wires and placed caps on wires. GENTLY replaced new element with screws. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. Then I tested the oven after I put it back together and the oven works perfectly.

By myself

I simply followed the you tube video and had the new kit installed in 30 minutes.

This was relatively easy repair remove the bottom tray of your oven remove the screws from the two guards remove the old ignitor replace and reinstall in reverse