JBP75AY1 General Electric Range - Instructions

Very easy. Unpluged range from outlet, took two screws from the front under side of the range top, raised cook top up, took off four wires from burner, removed two screws than holds burner on cook top, replaced with new burner, installed two screws that hold burner in place, installed the four wires to burner, lowered cook top back into place replaced two screws that hold cook top down, pluged back into outlet. DONE!

lift stove top, 2 undermount screws. Then unplug 4 wires, I did them 1 at a time plugging into new burner as I go so I wouldn't screw up. Take 2 screws out of old burner to stove top, # all around circle put screws in same # on new burner.Done Good experience all the way around. Order delivery and install

Remove two screws with nut driver that holds range top down. Turn off breaker or unplug before lifting top. Brace top with 2x4. Take picture with cell phone just in case. Orient replacement part with old burner. Remove one wire at a time and install on new burner in corresponding correcting terminal. be sure they are snug. Drop top install nuts . Test! Done! I am not an electrician!!!!!!!! Please do not publish !!!!

Took back panel off unplugged sensor and replugged in and worked like a charm!Sears wanted $400 and was going to 'overrepair"Got the 60 dollar part on here. UPS shipped to wrong address and customer service refunded my shipping and was excellent! would definetly use again!thanks

popped the new one on!

Easy

I followed the easy instructions and everything went well. I had the new switch installed in about 30 minutes. My wires were different colors than on the instructions but it was still easy to figure out where the wires went on the new switch. Just do not be in a hurry and make sure you measure before you break off the extension bar. My knob fit on the new switch without any of the parts that came with the switch.

First of all I did this repair because the wire to the burner shorted out. I did the wire portion first - only then did I know I needed the switch kit. (The burner was operating while my old swithch was OFF). The first (wire replacement) repair took about 10 minutes - I followed the guidance on this web-site. The second repair (The switch) took about 20 minutes. The switch ws not the same as the original. Just be careful to mark each wire as you remove them from the old switch's posts. The posts on the switch are marked and you need to place them on the like-marked corresponding posts on the new switch. All is well, my burner is operational.

Your "virtual repairman" was fantastic. I would have purchased the wrong part without trhe diagnostic service. It said that 53% of the time the infinite switch was the problem. In my case it was 100%. Why I put up with this problem for 6 years I will never know.

Repair job was easy but longer than the 15 minutes that it said it would take.

1. The infinite switch had several knobs which would fit the switch shaft. Read the directions included with the switch in order to have the shaft fit the proper knob. You can break the shaft with two pairs of pliers. 2. Move the stove away from the wall and unplug it. 3. Remove the 1/4 screws from the back side of the stove and remove the back panel, exposing the switch. 4. Remove the wires one at a time and put them on the new switch. The terminals are L1, L2, P, H1 & H2. The Pilot (p) has a smaller terminal so you don't get it mixed up. Generally L1 is black, L1 is red, P is yellow, H1 and H2 can be blue, brown, yellow, orange or one of these colors striped on a white wire. 5. Remove the old switch from the stove and be sure to save the two mounting screws. 6. Position the new switch so that the side of the switch marked "top" is on top. 7. Install the screws on the new switch and put the knob on it. 8. Carefully test the burner. 9. Unplug the stove and put the back cover on.

I located and removed 2 sets of hex-head screws under the front lip of the cooktop, then lifted the entire cooktop to access the burner controls. Removed the wires and taped them, and took out the old control after removing 2 phillips head screws. Installed replacement part easily. Only tricky part is that the various shaft adapters don't quite work with my knob. I'll fix it completely with a bit of epoxy and the adapters they sent.

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

it was hard to figure out the instructions from A switch to B switch to my switch. The first switch was no good the second one was good. prayer book didn't hurt.thank

Took the upper back covering off, disconnected the clock control. The only problem is the replacement didn't have the same connections so I was able to pull up the replacement number of wb27x10311 and asked for a diagram which told me exactly where to plug each of the red, white, blue and yellow wires, what a relief! To my amazement I fixed my "old" stove for less than $160, if I had called GE to service it, I'm sure I would have been looking at a $400 bill. This was the way to go, Thank You!

After needlessly replacing the Thermo-sensor and Bake element I was able to determine that, while I had proper voltage to the appliance I did not have power to bake element when bake knob was turned on. The broil element worked properly. I hesitated purchasing the Electronic Clock Control because there was nothing wrong with the oven clock and it was an expensive part. I switched out the control unit and was delighted to see the bake element heat up immediately. It was simple to replace and the instructions that came with it were adequate - just some differences in the color of wires. Thank you Part Select.com!