JGBP89DEMW General Electric Range - Instructions

Remove the warming drawer entirely. Remove all five nuts securing the valve and regulator assembly. Loosen (do not remove the nuts entirely) the burner assembly itself to give some wiggle room above the valve and regulator assembly. Also remove the single screw that holds the "collar" in place just above the gas outlet that services the oven burner. This should provide the margin of room you need to remove the valve and regulator assembly because it's a tight space. Working entirely in this cramped space (the warming drawer) will take time and patience. Don't drop any screws because you might create a whole load of more work for yourself. Loosen the brass nuts holding the gas lines in place. Then you have to maneovre the old equipment out. Just reverse all the steps to install the new equipment. Apply Harvey's to the brass nuts and re-attach the gas lines BEFORE you firmly attach the equipment using the five nuts. Don't tighten the brass parts all the way, just hand tight at first. Re-attach the equipment using the five nuts, then tighten up the brass parts with a wrench. Don't over tighten. Re-secure the screws that hold the burner in place. Then test the equipment. If all good, wait for the oven to cool, then do a final check that all the screws are firmly in place. Voila.

One of the initial two screws for the oven bottom would not budge. Finally used a socket set to loosen it up. Upon taking out the old bottom I turned it over & saw a heat shield attached. I have no idea if you can order a new bottom with a new shield already attached or not, but I had no idea it was there until I took the old part out. Out of the eight screws attaching the shied, four of them were also difficult to loosen up. But in the end the new bottom looks great !

1. Removed oven door..
2. Slide out floor plate of over.
3. Removed four screws securing the flame shield.
4. removed the two screws attaching the heating element to the burner.
5. Pulled heating element wires out of rear hole in oven and detached plug.
6. Attached new element and reassembled in reverse order.

Removed the old glowbar's two screws. Didn't take a mental photo of its proper placcement (or a real one, which would've been smart). Removed screws holding 1) a heat protection plate, and 2) wire harness plate. Installed the new glowbar, hopefully, the right way - with its heat-plate facing the gasline of the over/broiler. Reinstalled the heat protection plate and wire harness plate. Hasn't blown up yet!

Tested for power to the igniter, (had power) so I knew it must have been the igniter that had failed. Removed two screws that held the shield in place, remove two screws that hold the igniter and disconnect the plug form the igniter, replace with new igniter.

I let my brother do the actual installation but it only look about 15 min. I did look at the website of the appliance manufacturer first and then came to this website. The cost of the part I needed was almost half as much as the other site. When I saw that someone with the same oven model number and had the same problem and was able to fix it, I decided to order here. It came quickly and my oven now works.

Secured the power, Opened the back of the range, and discovered a rodent chewed the wires in half so I striped the ends and wired them back together, the oven works great !!

I first took out the screw which held the bottom plate for the oven. then took the screws off the igniter unhooked the wires , took the new igniter hooked up the wires then put the screws back in put the bottom plate back in and turned the oven on to test it and it worked great.

I was so sick of this drawer and I over heard a buddy telling a story about a website that you can get ANY piece for appliances. I take the drawer out, look up the website (partselect.com) look at the appliance diagram and find the missing piece. Order it, get it, install it. My wife thinks I'm a hero and I think I'm pretty cool too.

I remove the old thermostat and realized right away it was burned, the replacement was very easy to clip on

In my case it was the lower burner so I unplugged oven and turned gas off.
Then I removed the bottom drawer, and the lower burner cover.
Next unplug Oven Igniter, found where drawer existed.
Removed 2 screws attaching Igniter using nutdriver
Placed new Igniter on
Plug Igniter in and tested oven
Replace burner cover and drawer


This was much easier then what I went through with a repair man the first time around. These Igniter are designed for certain model stoves and are not interchangable with other model stoves!!!

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

Remove drawer by pulling out and lifting up so drawer will slide out of range. Use 1/4 inch Nutdriver or socket - remove the screw that holds the drawer support to the body of the range. Remove support and install new one with screw Pay attention to the way the support fits. There are two holes one for the screw and the other for the plastic prong on the bottom of the support. The prong fits in the bottom hole and the screw in the above hole.

In general, other repair stories on this site collectively give a good description of the repair process. My words concern the decision that has to be made as to which element is bad - igniter or gas valve. To reach a conclusion about this question, I was comforted by the fact that I could measure the AC electric current through the gas valve which then let me decide that my problem was in the igniter. Since the circuit is a simple series with three elements, thermostat, igniter, and valve and the resistance of the valve unit was 1.0 to 1.2 ohms (per GE range equipment instruction which came with the range) by measuring the AC volts across the valve, I found (by dividing the volts AC across the gas valve (2.3 volts) by the resistance of the valve mechanism (1.0 ohms) that my old igniter was only supplying 2.3 AC amperes (instruction sheet states 2.9 amps. is needed to actuate the valve and further while heating of the oven is occurring the valve AC current will raise to 3.2 to 3.6 amps.). At 2.3 amps. the igniter will glow at a yellow color but will not actuate the valve. When you replace the old igniter with a new one you will enjoy to measure voltage across the gas valve once again and discover that the voltage rises to 2.9 volts and that the gas turns on and the heater tube gas is ignited.

the instructions given for this part were not 100 % accurate, our oven door required multiple, dis assembly and was unable to complete the task, local handy men refused to come to assist since the job was already started, it appears I will now need to buy a new oven , I was disapointed in the help because had we known we had the more diffcilult oven, would not have attempted, I did give the correct model and serial number to the person when discussing this part