J309*03 General Electric Range - Instructions

1. Bought replacement part said to replace old switch.
2. Pulled old switch out.
3. Replacement part did not match. Would have to take entire switch panel apart to change to this part.
4. Multiple-part instructions very poor. For my switch unreadable.
5. Old part was "push to turn". New part was not.
6. Knob did not fit new switch. Old shaft was "D" shaped. New is square.
7. Gave up. Need to call repair shop.
8. Hope this helps.

New one a little different ,but it was marked for wiring!
Had to install upside down because wires would not reach right side up!
Had to pull back side of knob out and turn 180 degrees and glue in knob, so knob would be right side up!
Works fine! Now all burners work again!

turn off electricity to stove and simply remove the screws from the heating element and put new element back in place .put screws in and turn power back on and test.

I removed the screw holding the tilt mechanism to the range top. Removed the clips holding the block together. Disconnected the two power leads on the old burner and replaced with the new burner. Closed the block around the leads. Screwed the tilt mechanism back to the range top and that was it!

Partselect made this job a breeze. Due to the user friendly process to order and receive the part. I repaired the stove after turning off the breaker in the main box. There were two screws that held the baking unit in place, removed them and then replaced with new unit.

Got new part! Unplug range!!!
Remove oven door by opening and lifting up at the same time, set aside.
Remove two screws with a nutdriver or screwdriver.
Pull on element far enough to unhook wires and throw away old element and install the wires on the new element and reinstall!!

Removed two clips that held the ceramic insulators in place. Removed two screws that held conductors to the burner. Replaced screws onto new burner unit, replaced ceramic insulators. Fastened clip to burner onto the range. Turned burner on and it worked great. Thank you for your quick responce to my order.

Removed trim ring and drip pan, loosened retaining nut and replaced the burner. I was very impressed at the fast service from your company. Thank You

First removed oven door, according to Reader's Digest repair manual, then removed two screws holding element. Pulled element out several inches, then removed one side of bracket holding up front of element so that bad element could be pulled further out. Then disconnected two red wires from one side and two light blue wires from other side. Removed old Element. Attached two light blue wires to one side and two red wires to other pole, inserted element back into rear wall and attached with two screws, Re-attached bracket holding up front of element. Re-installed door. Tested and it worked fine.

When the part arrived, I used the diagram provided by the website to see what really needed to be done. Keep in mind, if you're doing it correctly and disconnect the range from the power source, it's going to be dark inside the oven. Get a good flashlight or electric lantern. There are two screws holding the element in. Mine were 8MM hex-head screws, but be prepared for anything. I removed the with a socket attachment/adapter to my cordless drill/screwdriver, and the part came right out. Some insulation will come as well - don't panic. Installation is similar, just in reverse order. Pay attention to the feet on the element. Make certain they are down. Don't lean on them when you think you're finished and discover that you installed it upside down like someone I know, and have to pull it out to correct this.

Replaced the burner. Still no heat. Decided to take the front off and test the connections (Power Off!). Found no output from switch to burner. Ordered new switch from PartSelect. Switch arrived in 24 hours, just like the burner (I'm in FL, but still fast!) My only problem was that the know didn't quite fit -- too long. Cut the metal correctly, but still too long. Had to cut the plastic adapter slightly. Now it fits like the others, but it's not quite as secure due to shortening the piece that slides on the metal shaft.

Removed 2 nuts holding the baking unit to the oven back, removed 2 nuts holding wires in place, installed new unit following procedure backwards. It takes longer to get the tools,take the oven door off, and take racks out than it does to remove and replace the baking unit.

I removed the unit easily with anut driver, however the unit also supported the thermo-link. I had to use the hack saw to relieve a small opening for the thermo-link to pass through. No real problem. Then a few holes to be drilled to attach the 'link' to the base of the broiler unit.

BUT-I went into the website listed on the box. GEAppliances.com Guess what? Their price was twice yours!!

Broiler element arrived at my door 3 days after ordering which was nice. Apparently the billing dept. is out of the USA so don't be surprised, like I was, to find a suspicious looking charge for a currency exchange fee (mine was 42 cents). I had to drill two new screw holes in the base of the new element in order for it to fit my oven. I also had to use heavy wire snips to cut off about an inch of the top of the new element base. The female electrical connections also had to be spread out with needle nose pliers since the new element connections were slightly thicker. With all of the issues I had I was frustrated and it took about two hours. On the other hand, the part works perfectly and was priced right. Hopefully it will fit perfectly out of the box for your oven.

I looked on Youtube for a how to video. It was accurate but the screws in my oven were NOT phillips head screws, they turned out to be sheet metal screws. I used pliers at first which was a PAIN but then I borrowed a socket wrench from the neighbor that was MUCH better!! I had wanted to do it myself to prove to my husband and son that I could but I ended up needing their help because the screws were so tight.... But we did the repair ourselves!!!