RA720KW General Electric Range - Instructions

Snapped in the clip

First I unplugged the stove, then lifted the stovetop, then took off the top panel on the back and disconnected the two wires. Then unscrewed the terminal block and put the new one in its place. Lowered the top inserted the eye and replaced the back panel. Works great!

This is the second time in a few months that I replaced this terminal block, so I made sure the contacts were clean and smooth. I also made sure the contacts were completely inserted in the block.

Removed the screws holding the back in place, then pulled off the control knob and removed the two screws holding the infinity switch. Swapped the leads from the old to the new switch and reinstalled everything. Worked like a champ!

unplug stove first...take back of stove off to get to burner switch remove wires colors coded.. get new switch put wires on the same way.plug stove in test burner...very simple to replace.and save $$$$$$$$

Unplug stove first. Raised the stove top and propped up useing wooden spoon and wife assistance holding up. Pay attention to spot brackets hand to top. Removed sheet metal screws from bracket clamp holding burner in place. Removed one extension bracket from old burner and transfeered to new burner. Removeing one bracket clamp allows the other one to act like a hinge and make for easy removal and replacement. Back of burner had corresponding numbers which made it easy to replace brackets in same place as old. I carefully take one electrical wire at a time from old burner and transfeered to the new burner. Replaced burner same way it came off.

Simply inserted the clip into the hole in the oven. It took less than 20 seconds. :D

took off cover, pulled all wires off switch, pushed wires on new switch, put cover back on. Whalaa..

I turned the power off at the circuit breaker, pulled the stove out from the wall, and removed the plug. I removed the top back panel, and took the burner switch out by unscrewing the 2 screws in the front of the panel. I used pliers to remove the wires one at a time from the bad switch and put them on the good switch. I replaced the new burner switch on the front panel and also, replaced the back panel. I put the plug back in the socket, pushed the stove against the wall, and turned the power on at the circuit breaker.

First replaced the 8" burner element-still did not work.
second: replaced the TERMINAL BLOCK KIT still did not work.
third : finally replaced switch: very easly-make sure you do not take off any of the wires on the back of the switch-take new switch and replace each wire on the same location than remove the old switch and replaced wired new on with the two screws.

Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.

Went to You Tube, found the appropriate segment. "Wa La" the problem was solved. Burner is working the way it is supposed to.

Removed the burner coil.
Unscrewed the terminal block.
Pulled out the stove and disconnected the 220 Volt service at the plug.
Removed the back panel at the control knobs.
Detached the wiring to the control knob and pulled thru the back panel.
Wiring mostly visable to the front 8 inch burner.
Replaced wiring and mounted new terminal block.
Tested the burner for a few seconds.
Replaced back panel and set stove in place.
Saved $150 dollar service call.

Red Light Off

1. Shut off power at breaker.
2. lift and prop up burner panel (top of stove)
3. removed three screws along top edge.
4. remove oven door (lifts off hinges easy)
5. remove 4 screws along upper oven opening
6. remove 2 screws up under front panel and pull out upper panel enough to access back of switches.
7. unplug wires (5) one at a time and plug onto new switch.
8. remove the two screws from front holding switch in place and remove old switch.
9. install the two screws attaching new switcj.
10 replace all screws in reverse order.
11. Re-install door.
12 close breaker
easy job any one with any mechanical no-how can do.

After receiving the new swith from part select in less than four days with surface mail as they promised, it took me less than five minutes to replace the new swith with the old one. The only tools that I needed were A) a 5/16 nut driver to remove the back panel in order to get an access to the swith.B) a phillips screw driver to remove the swith assembley from the front panel.

I had an estimate from a technician to do the job for 196.27 dollars!!!!!:(:(. I only paid 29.56 Dollars to part select to get this swith, including the shipping.:):):)