JK25202 General Electric Range - Instructions

Cut off power, but needed flashlight to see what I was doing. Couldn't get the flashlight to shine on right spot and had no one to hold it. Oven is 19 years old, so screws holding it into the oven wall and to the connection were very old and very difficult to loosen. Finally held prong with pliers and wrenched the screw loose after repeated tries and using a little WD40. Very proud of myself! I am a wife and mother of two teenage boys, but I end up doing all these projects. So proud that I posted a photo of the oven on facebook! Goes from 0 -350 in three minutes now. Yippee!

Of course I unplugged the stove. Then I removed the cover to reveal the connections for the element. After unscrewing the two wire connectors, I had to use a nut driver to remove the two screws holding it in place in the oven. The new element went in easily. I screwed it in place in the oven and then attached the two wires in the back and replaced cover. Plugged it in, tested it, and we were good to go.

Note: this was a second attempt, The first time I ordered a heating element with push on connectors not screw on. Beware! Pay attention to the pictures and description. I ordered too quickly.

First, and most importantly, flipped the circuit breaker and turned off the power to the oven. Next, Unscrewed the old element and disconnected the wiring. Then, removed the old element and replaced it with the new one.
Reconnected the wiring to the new bake element and screwed it back onto the oven.

Voila! Turned the oven on and watched the new element heat to a bright red. We had an oven once again, and saved ourselves more than $100. Yay!

The Baking elements takes 10-15 minute each but the Broil Element is a bit tricky as the screws holding the element is difficult to get to. I also used duct tape to temporarily hold the element to stay in place.

Our element blew in our oven, we took it out and saw what we needed. It was very easy to see what part we needed to order because of the great pictures on the website. The larger views really helped. We got the part quickly and put it in. It was a breeze and now our oven is working great! The best part however, is it only cost about $33.00 including shipping and handling. Much cheaper than if we would have had someone come in to fix it!

First I removed the two screws in the back. then I removed the two screws attached to the brace at the top. pulled the old element out. Removed the screws that attatced the wires to the element. Attached the wires to the new element. Pushed the wires back in. Pushed the element in and attached the screws. Reattached the support. Turned on the broiler. The element smoked for a few seconds before getting red hot. It is working fine.

Pull the stove out from the wall and unplug. Had to remove back of stove, the aluminum sheilding and the duct work to get at wires use nut driver. Then used nut driver to remove nuts from broiler unit inside stove. Take the front overn dover off first. The new part did not match up with the wires so I used a needle nose to spread the wire clips just a tad so they would fit over the tabs of the broiler unit. Do all of this behind the stove as you do not have eough wire to do this effectively from the oven side. After I had the tabs fitted to the broiler unit. I removed them and fed wires back through the stove. I then went back to the front of the stove and put the broiler back in and put support bar back in to ceiling of stove and the two nuts back on to affix broiler to back of oven. Put the aluminum baccking and duct work back onto the back of the stove and plugged it back in. Pretty easy job.

Turned off power at panellboard. Disconnected mounting hardware from inside oven chamber. Pulled failed heating element with wires attached into the oven chamber. Disconnected wiring and reconnected them to the new heating element. Tightened screws while holding connectors with pliers. Applied electrical tape to connections. Pushed wires back into opening and secured heating element back into place. Restored power nad verifed proper operation. The other heater purchased will be used when the bake element finally fails,

First, shut off the breaker to the stove. Removed old element by unscrewing the two screws on the plate where the element attached at the bottom of the inside of the oven. The old element was corroded at the connection, so disconnect it, attached the new one, pushed it back in the insulated socket then reattached the two screws on the plate. Flipped the breaker back on. Works great. Only took about 25 min. from start to finish.

(1) Turned off power source.
(2) Removed rust on screw heads before attempting to loosening them up.
(3) Pulled the element out to expose the connections.
(4) Disconnected with phillips screw driver, taped off wires to prevent mixed-up during re-installation.
(5) Re-installed new element using new screws provided.

Took oven door off. Removed screws that were holding oven insert. Pulled out oven insert. Removed old gasket. Installed new gasket. Push oven insert back. Installed screws. Replaced oven door.

Removed the racks, removed two screws holding the element to the back of the oven, removed two screws holding wires to the element, installed by the reverse. BUT in my case the new element still didn't heat. The part was perfect so when the old element melted and shorted, it must have damaged the controlling switch (220V requires dual pole switch--apparently one side is now bad). Since the oven is over 30 yrs old, I'm returning the element and will buy a new oven.

I turned off the breaker to the oven. Removed the old element and replaced. Turned on the oven breaker and turned the over to 350 and it was working great. I was very proud of myself as a 68 year old widow.

Turned off the power to the oven. Removed the racks. Removed two screws holding the unit to the back of the oven. Removed two screws holding the wires to the terminals. Removed the old unit. Reversed the process. Piece of cake. The only "difficulty" was that the old wire-to-terminal screws required a nut driver (as did the unit-mounting screws) while the new wire-mounting screws required a #2 Phillips screw driver. Took me a couple of minutes to get one of those from the garage.

Note: Please make sure power is off!!! Turn off at the fuse panel,Main. Test oven after you turn off breaker...try turning on oven with normal switch, indicator light should be off. Also check interior light, usually wired 110 volts, may be on a separate circuit, just for safety!!. Remove retaing screws, scewdriver will work , but a nut driver is easier. Pull old element out gently and check between terminals with volt meter. Remove screws on element holding feed wire, reverse this process to install. Test oven for proper operation after installation...make sure oven cycles through a set temperature range.