JGSP30GEP3 General Electric Range - Instructions

My husband removed the two screws t hat hold the element in place, Then he pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires and replace the element with the new igniter put everything back and now its working like a charm

Diagnosed the problem as igniter failure and called local parts outlet. They gave me the part number, but said they were out and directed me to another vendor. When the part came, it was the wrong shape but I tried it anyway. Result - the igniter glowed which allowed the gas to flow, but igniter, being the WRONG PART, didn't ignite the gas, allowing a dangerous build-up of gas.

I then went to PartSelect, looked up the part, saw it was the correct one, ordered it (arrived within 3 days) and, because I already had the pans and covers off the oven, it was a matter of minutes to install. Works like a charm and, though I usually like to buy locally, I'll check out PartSelect first next time!

Ignitor is easily reached by removing the bottom of the oven floor. Machine screws remove easily when appliance is relatively new, but from experience, they may give you some trouble when stove is 5+ years old! Our part came in a timely fashion, even when ordered over a holiday weekend . Replace ignitor just as the old one came out-one word to the wise...scrape off enough silver coating on the wires so that a good contact is insured before splicing with the wing-nut included. Having had many GE stoves, I notice that the factory-installed ignitors have a shorter and shorter life; I'll be keeping PartSelect's website handy!

My repair was easy. The hardest part was trying to get the 2 small screws off and on the igniter. You need small hands or a small, angled socket set. I did mine with the door of my oven still on and maybe that was why I couldn't reach the screws that well. If you can do the repair with the door off, I would say that would be easier. As soon as the new piece was screwed in, it worked on the first try.

First i removed the inside bottom of the oven where i could get to the actual glow plug igniter and removed the two screw that held the igniter in place. I than pulled the entire oven out allowing me to access the two wires connecting the igniter to the stove. I disconnected the wires and had to splice the wires as to be able to reach the appropriate connections. I reinstalled the igniter and upon testing the igniter worked properly. The entire process took me one hour.

First I took out the old Igniter and discovered the part I ordered did not come with any connectors, just bare wires. This is ok but I found myself searching the stores for the correct attatchments. It would be great if your web site gave the options to order these at the same time. This was my first repair of this kind so I had no idea what I was doing. I thought the part would arrive with what I needed to install it. The hardest part was getting the bolts off the under side of the Igniter. The space if very tight and at an angle that a regular took doesn't really fit. What took so long was taking the bolts off by hand. Im a single woman who likes to try to fix things first on my own. My 18 yr. old daughter was in there with me the whole time learning and finally it was her smaller fingers that were able to get the bolts into the new part. We only finger tightened the part because no tools would fit at the curved angle. I love your web site and the ease of finding the part I needed. Its the stove manufacture who made this project difficult by how they place the screws. I will use them for all my part needs in the future.

I frist remove the screws that hold the element in place disconnected two wires.That didn't take long.Call aronud my area for part.They wanted 90.00 plus taxs.Went on line to find it much cheaper came in the mail very fast and put it in my self.Very easy and saved money too.It took less then 3 mins to put in.If I could do it you can too.Thank You,Bearice & Robert Reynolds P.S works great and no yelling at each other.Easy

well first off I repair commercial HVAC equipment for a major drug company so I think I've done it all.I thought it cant be much different than any burner assembly.I made it harder than it had to be,anyone can do this.I removed lots of unneccessary things.Let me help you only take out the drawer on bottom of stove.so I started on top and worked my way down.save time and open the stove to were the door stops then have faith and give a good yank.this will remove the door,dont be afraid it will go right back on those two hinges easy.now that this is out of the way remove the bottom plate that covers the burner assembly (2 screws)in back pull it out then you see the igniter.as I said before with drawer pulled out remove the 2 1/4"nuts screws holding it up then from bottom.Unplug this stove then remove the 2 places its plugged in to.after you remove this there are 2 screws that hold it into the igniter remove them .cut the wires with enough room to re use the plug ends.strip the wires and use the wire nuts that they provide then put back together with new wires on new igniter then.re attach.put everything back together in the reverse order you took them apart.plug in stove and see the igniter light up again and light stove.do not call repairman you can do this.save your money for you its bad enough you have to buy anything else.

Followed the instructions from the video. The repair was really easy and quick.

Ordered the part and set it in.

i went for 3 months waiting on the electrician who never came then asked the plumber who else could fix it and he said my husband could it only needed to unscrew 4 tiny screws and unplug and cut and twist wires back the hardest part was reaching the bolts hooked to the ignighter the burner was in the way and is not as easy to remove as someone has said all in all it saved us 100 dollars and could have saved us months of burning food trying to cook on broil if i had only called the plumber first.ha ha

- removed the oven unit from the wall
- removed the aluminum backplate to expose the wiring
- Removed both glass wire nuts and disconnected the heating element\
- From the front, I removed both retainer screws and pulled the element wires through.
- In reverse order I reinsalled the new wires and screwed on the heating element.
-I reattached the electrical wiring and rear pane.
- I re-installed the unit into the wall.

They turned out to be 1/4 inch hex head screws. Only after soaking with penetrating oil could we budge them. There must be a special tool to loosen them on the back side where there is no room to get a socket on them and since they are in the heated part of the oven they are almost welded in. We were successful, but could only get one screw back in. So never use your oven with the door left open as I did if you do not want to repeat what happened to me.

Removed the two screws that hold the oven bottom to expose the glow element. Also removed the lower draw to get to the connections. The job was only complicated by getting to the two bolts holding the glow plug to the oven frame. Getting them off and getting the new plug on was not easy with standard tools. There was not a lot of room to work the hex bolts and i wound up cutting the old unit out and attaching the bolts to the frame and cutting slots in the new unit so I could slot it in. That worked. The glow plug was the problem and the oven came right on.

This web site is awesome!!! their forum told me what part i needed, and they shipped it out, super fast, i couldn't hardly believe it! I tried using the Sears Parts web site for my "kenmore" oven and that was a joke, seriously! no more kenmore for me, thanks. It took this site to figure out that i really had a G.E. with a kenmore name on it.
I found out that even though the old ignitor glows well, it may not pull enough amps to open the gas valve.
First i disconnected the two wires on the gas safety valve that lead to the ignitor. These are accessed after taking the bottom drawer out. Then using a nut driver, i took out the two screws holding the bottom of the burner tube. Then inside the oven, i took out the racks and then the two screws in the back on the bottom. Then took out the bottom plate. I removed the one screw on the front of the burner tube, and removed the burner tube with the ignitor attached. I cut the wires off the old ignitor and attached them to the new ignitor with the supplied ceramic wire nuts. I attached the new ignitor to the burner tube and put everything back together. The bottom screws on the burner tube were very difficult for me to reach. Almost impossible to get both hands there to do the job.