JGBP25DEMW General Electric Range - Instructions

Simply took out old burners replaced them with new burners, no tools needed.

Simply removed old burners. Placed leveling nuts in place. Replaced new burners in place.

I frist remove the screws that hold the element in place disconnected two wires.That didn't take long.Call aronud my area for part.They wanted 90.00 plus taxs.Went on line to find it much cheaper came in the mail very fast and put it in my self.Very easy and saved money too.It took less then 3 mins to put in.If I could do it you can too.Thank You,Bearice & Robert Reynolds P.S works great and no yelling at each other.Easy

Removed grills, oven bottom, heat deflector, and the two igniter mounting screws. Pulled out igniter, removed two wire twist caps and old igniter. Cut off ragged ends of wires coming from the stove side and re-stripped the wire ends. Attached oven side wires to new igniter wires using new twist caps. Reassembled everything in reverse order. Tested oven operation to ensure that the gas ignited promptly. (It did).

• Start by unplugging the unit from the wall.
• Then slide the unit out carefully without damaging the gas line.
• Next remove the lower drawer just under the stove. Pull all of the way out then lift slightly and continue pulling gently. The drawer should slide out with no need for tools.
• Tilt the range backwards towards the wall allowing enough room to access the back of the range where the gas control is.
• Remove the sheet metal under the stove. There should only be four hex head sheet metal screw holding it in place.
• Look at the gas control, and follow the white wires going up this should show you where the lower igniter for the oven is.
• Remove the igniter 1-2 screws
• Check to make sure you have the correct igniter. The upper and lower are the same. ****The label where my serial # is says that the unit only uses 5 amp igniters however the igniter I pulled out said 2-3 amp… fortunately Parts Select sent me the correct igniter without me knowing the difference when I ordered****
• Replace the old igniter with the new and wire it in per the instructions. **** I had to use butt connectors and part of the old wire because the replacement did not come with the correct connectors to attach to the gas control. It should be ok since it is only 5 amps and under****
• Reassemble the range and replace the drawer.
• Be careful when putting the range back in its place, not to tear the linoleum. I wet down the floor with glass cleaner to make it slick.

Good luck, I may have had it done in less than half an hour but I have a two and a half year old who must help daddy do it all. Takes longer but makes it more fun… Brad.

All I did was remove the old burner and put the other one on. Took less than a minute.

1. Open oven door
2. insert oven racks (perfect fit)
3. close oven door. Done and finished - man am I tired

Just lifted off the old burners set on the new ones.

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

It was easy. I removed the guts. Removed the heat deflector (one nut). Then removed the igniter and the cover over the wires in order to unplug the wires so I could work with attaching the new part on top of the counter. Replaced everything and it worked great. When the old igniter did not work, the gas valve would not let the gas into the oven, Once replaced, you can here the gas flow in and ignite. Repair man wanted $65 to show up and $175 for part and labor. I paid $77 for the part and did it myself. I do not consider myself handy.

I figured out the problem, ordered the part, and replaced it. Four hex head screws, two wire nuts, and two thum screws latter it was working.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...And then I installed
ignitor tightening the two screws and connected the two ignitor wires with the provided wire-nuts.
Mike Polcho

It was a simple repair removed the oven door, and the oven bottom plate. removed the screw that held the burner tube to gain access to the two screws that hold the igniter in place clipped the wires. put the new one on with butt end wire connectors instead of the wire nuts supplied. screwed the igniter back onto the burner tube put the burner tube back in place and secured it with the screw, replace oven bottom and door the whole repair took 20 minutes.

They turned out to be 1/4 inch hex head screws. Only after soaking with penetrating oil could we budge them. There must be a special tool to loosen them on the back side where there is no room to get a socket on them and since they are in the heated part of the oven they are almost welded in. We were successful, but could only get one screw back in. So never use your oven with the door left open as I did if you do not want to repeat what happened to me.

Removed the two screws that hold the oven bottom to expose the glow element. Also removed the lower draw to get to the connections. The job was only complicated by getting to the two bolts holding the glow plug to the oven frame. Getting them off and getting the new plug on was not easy with standard tools. There was not a lot of room to work the hex bolts and i wound up cutting the old unit out and attaching the bolts to the frame and cutting slots in the new unit so I could slot it in. That worked. The glow plug was the problem and the oven came right on.