JGRP17BEW3WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Troubleshooted ALL possible causes and after perusing the owners manual and PartSelect blogs. Can't say it enough, people!! Do your homework- there are 3 possible parts that can cause the oven not to light; Igniter, gas safety valve, or thermostat / power switch assy (oven control knob).
SAFETY FIRST...UNPLUG the stove before performing any of the following electrical circuit checks (besides voltage check, which is ONLY for those qualified for electrical circuit maintenance)

Remove oven door by opening slightly and pulling straight up- it will slide right off the hinges.
Remove the 2 thumb screws holding the lower oven plate and slide it toward the back while lifting up on rear of plate to clear the front flange and then remove the plate.
The burner tube baffle plate will come right off after removing the one retainer screw (1/4" nut driver).
(Optional)Remove the whole broiler drawer by sliding it fully open and lifting it up by the front end.
Now you'll have clear access to the igniter, which is mounted on the rearward end of the burner tube with two 1/4" machine screws. Disconnect the igniter wire connectors at the gas safety valve and wire harness. Remove it and SAVE the screws for mounting the new igniter!! NOTE: .
Handle the new igniter CAREFULLY!! (don't drop it or bang it against anything solid or the heating element will break).

1) Checked t-stat switch on oven knob - good (closed or 0 ohms when turned on). This verifies you are getting supply voltage to the igniter circuit. Lift the oven top by the front corners until the supports lock into place. Locate and disconnect wires on back of switch and measure ohms across switch terminals.
2) Checked voltage at igniter wire terminals with oven knob turned on (this step ONLY for those familiar with proper use of multimeter and training for electrical circuit maintenance). This verifies the gas safety valve switch is closed and correct voltage is available to power the igniter (120V).
3) Since I had proper power to the igniter wire terminals with the oven knob turned on past 200 deg., that verified a malfunctioning igniter.
4) I chose to solder and heat shrink the wire connectors to the new igniter but you can use the supplied ceramic wire nuts. Be sure to leave enough wire length when you cut the wires off the old igniter. Mount the new igniter to the bracket with the screws you saved and be sure to snug them good but DON'T overtighten and strip the threads!! Connect the two igniter wires to the gas safety valve terminal and the harness connector. Make sure the connections are snug!!
5) Reinstall the burner baffle plate and lower oven plate.
6) Remount oven door and turn on oven past 200 deg. The igniter element should glow bright red after a few seconds. Gas valve should open and burner will light a few seconds later.
NOTE: Make sure the gas cock for the oven (on the side of the main gas regulator valve) is flipped to the open position or gas will not flow to the oven burner. The main gas regulator valve is located under the range top toward the rear (trace the gas lines if you can't locate it readily)

I had to replace the ignitor. The wiring was simple. Just had to connect two wires. The difficult part was removing and replacing the ignitor. It is suspended by 2 screws that are very difficult to access.

well part was correct .Got it fast son installed it so do not know what tools, But at last one think i did clean under the stove, which was needed. Would do business again if needed.
Thank you

Your web site depicting igniter was perfect in helping me diagnose prob. Two other commentaries by people who fixed the same problem were also right on. I had to take out a second plate below the top ( primary ) drip plate, & above the warming drawer. Though akward to lay on one's belly to fix, all went well. Started right up & Christmas cookie -baking ensued. Great web site, great instructions. Thank you very much. Jeff M. PS, I initially went to another web site, starting with an "A", and found it hard to use & vague.

My neighbor, a retired electrican, came over and almost had to take apart the total oven to get at the igniter. It was very difficlt to get at and take off. I don't know who disigned this, but it sure was not designed to fix easily. Products are not designed to be fixed. The companys want us to buy new products. America is a throw away society. Anyone trying to fix this part on their own: Good Luck!

The repair did not go well for the oven igniter. After I unfastened the defective igniter from the mount I tried to gently pull the ceramic wire connectors through the opening in the back of the oven. I pulled too hard and the wire connectors became disconnected and only the wires from the ingiter came through the opening. Now the wiring is trapped on the other side of the oven wall and I can't pull the wire through the opening (the oven is a wall unit). The wiring is actually also threaded through a second wall at the back of the oven and the wiring is trapped behind the second wall. I would need a long skinny hook to try to pry the wire from behind the second wall. I may need to call a professional after all. Jiggling the wires a bit in addition to gentle pulling may have worked, I don't know.

I removed the bottom cover inside the oven. Beneath that was another cover held by two screws. I removed these and the ignitor was right there. I removed the bracket screws and pulled the ignitor away from the back wall of the oven and cut the two wires close to the ignitor, leaving enough wire to reconnect the wires from the oven outlet to the new ignitor with the supplied wire nuts. Then I re-attached the bracket to the new ignitor and once that was done simply reattached the unit to the back wall of the oven. The whole job is pretty straight forward, the only difficult part being the limited work space INSIDE the oven.

Removed oven bottom panel. Removed lower drawer to access old igniter. Had to take a cover panel off to expose igniter. Unscrew two screws to remove igniter which was a bit awkward to reach. Then simply put new one in its place.

I went to the GE website, did the trouble shooting and read that 80% of the time the igniter was the problem. I read how others did the repair, ordered the part and followed their steps. My only problem was the two screws were at a tough angle to get to, if it wasn't for that it would've been 15 minutes

It was a few days before Thanksgiving and our oven went out. We had out of town guests coming for a week stay with us. I fortunately found the instruction manual and hopefully thought it was the igniter. I called Parts Select and unbelievably I received it the next day. I checked with the helpfull hints to installing it. It was easy and quick. The only problem I had was laying on the floor to long, I had trouble getting up. I'm 70 years old. Thank you Parts select for having the part and your incredible delivery.

The broiler still worked, so I knew the issue was not with the power or gas to the oven. It was easy to remove the inside bottom of the oven to look at the igniter and burner. 4 screws hold the oven bottom in place. After the igniter was in view, I turned on the oven to see if it glowed, which it did not. 2 more screws out and the igniter was loose. The two wires coming out of the igniter go through a hole in the back of the oven to a compartment below the oven. This compartment is accessed by removing the bottom drawer and removing a panel in the lower back of the oven held in by 4 screws. After disconnecting the wires, I attached a thin pull wire to them then pulled the igniter out through the oven door. The pull wires made it easy to feed the new igniter wires through the back of the oven. The rest is a reverse of the process.

put the new part

Took the pan off the bottom of oven (2 screws). Took one screw out of burner to get at igniter. Removed 2 igniter screws with ratchet which was a little difficult. Then cut the old wire since I was provided with wire nuts and using the old connectors and wire nuts, rewired the igniter and replaced the screws and replaced the pan on the bottom of the oven. Access to the wires is through the bottom pan by removing the drawer.

FIrst, have the tools you will need, a straight ratchet screwdriver, 1/4" ratchet/screwdriver set, a 90 degree offest, some small plastic bags to hold/tape screws to the pieces you take apart, and a flashlight.

1) Turn off the breaker to the oven.

2+ 3) Take the oven door off. It simplly lifts straigh up off the hinges. ( It slides back on hinges when you're done.) Take off the botton kick plate by pulling top down. The botton in on a hinge.

4) Slide out the oven racks.

5) Take out the inside bottom cover of the oven which is inside the oven. The cover lays flat and is attached by two screws in the back inside corners. You have to lift it up/out back edge first. (Put it back front edge first, & realign screw spring clips if necessary)

6) Slide out the oven gas line/igniter cover, which is found immedicately under the oven cover, by taking out one screw front center. You will then see the igniter in the back of the oven next to the gas line. *DO NOT UNDO ANYTHING HOLDING THE GAS LINE*.

7) From under the oven, take out two side screws helping to support the botton tray, one each middle side. Then take out the two most front bottom screws. while holding the front edge up. (It will drop) Then slide it out of groves in the back of the oven.

8) Take out the inside cover (2nd botton cover) by taking out the two screws from the inside front top. It will also slide out. This will totally open up access to the igniter bracket attacked to the gas line. *NOTE CURRENT PLACEMENT OF IGNITER WIRES*

9) Take off the two igniter bracket screws. Put the new igniter in its place.

10) Cut one wire off the old igniter as close to the old igniter part as possible. *YOU WILL NEED ALL THE EXTRA WIRE* *DO ONE AT A TIME* Match the same wire position old to new, strip 1/4", twist and ceremic wire nut provided together. Do the same with the second wire.

Put all parts back in reverse order.

Per the instructions included with my part and from reading prior posts, I unplugged my range, removed my storage drawer, took the screws out of the bottom pan and removed. I found the igniter really easy to locate. As it was held in by a bracket that was soldered in, I found no need to remove many screws or to add the included mounting hardware as the part instructions suggested. I removed it, placed and mounted the new igniter (only two screws) before I snipped the connecting wires. Stripping the insulation material off of the wires seemed to be the MOST difficult part! I spliced the new to the old using ceramic caps enclosed with part, plugged in the range and fired it up...just to be sure it worked, and it did! I reversed the process to put it back together. Voila!