JGSS05BEHB General Electric Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Claudene from ORCUTT, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB48T10095
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
oven racks old and ugly
1. Open oven door
2. insert oven racks (perfect fit)
3. close oven door. Done and finished - man am I tired
2. insert oven racks (perfect fit)
3. close oven door. Done and finished - man am I tired
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- Customer:
- Sherri from MORGANTOWN, WV
- Parts Used:
- WB16K10026
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
Burner could not be cleaned any more.
Just lifted off the old burners set on the new ones.
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- Customer:
- Nicholas from SIERRA VISTA, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WB20K8
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Broken thermostat.
This gas range had an oven that would heat, but it wouldn't hold it at a stable temperature. Say you set it at 300 degrees. Well, it'd head up to broiling temperatures, then drop down to like 200 degrees, then 400 degrees (You get the picture).
My guess was that the thermostat, given that this oven was ~20+ years old, was no longer able to detect correctly the temperature inside the oven.
The thermostat sensor is made up of the housing (The part that sits behind the oven temperature control knob), a long wire (so you can route it to the inside of the oven), and the probe itself (Which I boldly assume is the thing that measures the temperature inside the oven)
TL;DR:
-Pull oven from wall.
-Turn off electric and gas.
-Remove the grates and drip pans off the top.
-Pry the range's cooktop up (It's on like a hinge and is designed to lift up. You have to play with it a bit with like a screwdriver on the sides (One on each side). If you pry just a tad, you'll notice these prongs that act like detents. (LIFT CAREFULLY, the heating elements are still connected via their gas lines! They're flexible, but don't man handle the thing!
-Once that's up, it's time to finally start removing the thermostat which is the knob that controls the oven temperature. Pull the plastic knob off which will expose the two screws you need to detach it from the oven (Phillips head). Be super careful. You don't want to drop these screws. You'll be struggling to fish them out of the empty space that sits between the thermostat and plastic knob.
-Once that's loose, open the oven door and detach the thermostat from the back of the oven. Recycle the prongs holding the old thermostat sensor for the new one.
-Go to the back of the range. Like the actual back part of it.
-Frustrate yourself with pulling out the thermostat through the route it's been put in. It's difficult to route it through the tight spaces, but not complicated. Keep a mental note of this route and copy it with the new thermostat that you have to install.
-Don't fret, when it comes time to wire the new thermostat sensor, it's actually a lot easier than you would think to find that little hole in the back of the range that you have to slot it through. It's just slightly covered by insulation. Pulling it slightly aside, you'll see it very easily.
-Screw in the thermostat housing at the front of the oven.
-Frustrate yourself again by routing the wire while taking care not to bend the probe (This is my assumption not to bend it and I think it's a safe assumption to make)
-Find that tiny little hold in the back of the range again, insert the probe through it, then use those recycled prongs to hook that probe into place.
-Yay, you're almost done.
-Reinsert knob on thermostat.
-Turn gas and electricity back on.
-Give it a test run to see if you did it right.
-if it still doesn't work, then it might not have been the thermostat giving you problems.
-If it does work, put everything back the way it was.
-You're done.
My guess was that the thermostat, given that this oven was ~20+ years old, was no longer able to detect correctly the temperature inside the oven.
The thermostat sensor is made up of the housing (The part that sits behind the oven temperature control knob), a long wire (so you can route it to the inside of the oven), and the probe itself (Which I boldly assume is the thing that measures the temperature inside the oven)
TL;DR:
-Pull oven from wall.
-Turn off electric and gas.
-Remove the grates and drip pans off the top.
-Pry the range's cooktop up (It's on like a hinge and is designed to lift up. You have to play with it a bit with like a screwdriver on the sides (One on each side). If you pry just a tad, you'll notice these prongs that act like detents. (LIFT CAREFULLY, the heating elements are still connected via their gas lines! They're flexible, but don't man handle the thing!
-Once that's up, it's time to finally start removing the thermostat which is the knob that controls the oven temperature. Pull the plastic knob off which will expose the two screws you need to detach it from the oven (Phillips head). Be super careful. You don't want to drop these screws. You'll be struggling to fish them out of the empty space that sits between the thermostat and plastic knob.
-Once that's loose, open the oven door and detach the thermostat from the back of the oven. Recycle the prongs holding the old thermostat sensor for the new one.
-Go to the back of the range. Like the actual back part of it.
-Frustrate yourself with pulling out the thermostat through the route it's been put in. It's difficult to route it through the tight spaces, but not complicated. Keep a mental note of this route and copy it with the new thermostat that you have to install.
-Don't fret, when it comes time to wire the new thermostat sensor, it's actually a lot easier than you would think to find that little hole in the back of the range that you have to slot it through. It's just slightly covered by insulation. Pulling it slightly aside, you'll see it very easily.
-Screw in the thermostat housing at the front of the oven.
-Frustrate yourself again by routing the wire while taking care not to bend the probe (This is my assumption not to bend it and I think it's a safe assumption to make)
-Find that tiny little hold in the back of the range again, insert the probe through it, then use those recycled prongs to hook that probe into place.
-Yay, you're almost done.
-Reinsert knob on thermostat.
-Turn gas and electricity back on.
-Give it a test run to see if you did it right.
-if it still doesn't work, then it might not have been the thermostat giving you problems.
-If it does work, put everything back the way it was.
-You're done.
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- Customer:
- Ken from MIDDLETOWN, OH
- Parts Used:
- WB20K8
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The LP gas oven would not get to nor hold temperature
Followed you tube instructions I found on line via parts select recommendations.
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- Customer:
- Hyojin from Monmouth Junction, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WB16K10026
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The pipe that carry the gas to the ignition part was damaged, therefore the burner was not lightening up.
Just have to remove the old kit and replace it with the new one. No tool required.
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- Customer:
- Fawn from MEREDITH, NH
- Parts Used:
- WB13K21
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Ignitor would glow at orange but not white. Not enough heat to open valve to let gas run
Got the general idea off a u-tube video. Very simple and would have been even easier had I used a 1/4 in nutdriver instead of socket. Removed 2 screws (flathead) on the lower cover of oven. Removed 1 nut holding shield. Removed 1 nut holding protective trap door on rear, pulled coupling through hole and disconnected. Removed 2 nuts holding ignitor. That's it. Replace everything in sequence and your done.
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- Customer:
- Melvin from Brooklyn, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB13K21
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven Would Not Stay Lit/Smell Of Gas
The repair was pretty straight forward. I simply removed the old igniter, then I snipped the wires. Using the included wire nuts I spliced the old wires with the new. The longest time was spent looking for my wire strippers. I must say that the customer service was very quick and responsive. I received the part but it was broken. One call to customer service and the new part arrived the next day. Great job!!
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- Customer:
- Doan from Flushing, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB16K10026
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
burner did not light
just lift the cover and put it on.less than 1 minute.
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- Customer:
- Henry from Houston, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB16K10026
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
old burners were rusty and broken
I just lifted the old part and dropped the new one in. Everything fits perfectly. The new flame is a beautiful blue color.
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- Customer:
- Scott from MARSEILLES, IL
- Parts Used:
- WB13K21
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Burned out igniter kit
I simply followed the you tube video and had the new kit installed in 30 minutes.
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- Customer:
- William from FULTON, MO
- Parts Used:
- WB13K21
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Oven wouldn't light. Ignitor wood glow but didn't have enough amperage to open the safety valve to let the gas flow
This was relatively easy repair remove the bottom tray of your oven remove the screws from the two guards remove the old ignitor replace and reinstall in reverse
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- Customer:
- Patricia from Naugatuck, CT
- Parts Used:
- WB13K21
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Oven wouldn't heat
First I unplugged the stove. I gently removed the two screws that hold the old element in place. I snipped the wires and then twisted the new wires with the stove wires and placed caps on wires. GENTLY replaced new element with screws. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. Then I tested the oven after I put it back together and the oven works perfectly.
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- Customer:
- Louis from LEAGUE CITY, TX
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Change bulb
Easy
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- Customer:
- Donald from Racine, WI
- Parts Used:
- WB13K21
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The oven wouldn't reach operating temperature.
Remove the sheet metal that covers the burner and the igniter. For me this was two screws located in the rear of the oven. Two 1/4 inch screws held the igniter in place. I then cut the wires on the faulty igniter as close to the porcelin as possible. I cut the clip off of the new igniter and stripped the ends of all 4 wires, splicing then together with the ceramic wire nuts that were included in the kit. I fed the excess wire to the rear of the stove and reattached the new igniter to its mounting bracket. Replaced sheet metal. Plugged the unit into the outlet and away it went. Worked great.
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- Customer:
- Heather from Wauconda, WA
- Parts Used:
- WB16K10026
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Burners were plugged
We bought our replacement burners from Part Select.com at half the price of another major appliance store. They came fast & fit perfect. All around, we are very happy.
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