JGB915BEF2CC General Electric Range - Instructions

I removed the oven door, the base panel of the oven and slid out the broiler tray. Next, I pulled the wires out of the access hole in the back of the oven, then diconnected the modular plug and removed the 2 screws fastening the ignitor. I tested the ignitor with my ohm meter and found out that it did not have the necessary zero ohms resistance. The meter indicated an open circuit, so I ordered the replacement part, which was delivered in less than 24 hours. Then I reassembled everything and tried the oven. Works like new again.

removed lower broiler pan so i could see burner igniter. removed the heat shield in front of the gas valve. (1 screw). started oven. no response from igniter. no gas flow at all. if igniter is bad it will not allow gas to flow. ordered new igniter from parts select for my oven model. got it in a couple of days. it wasnt exactly the same as the original, but was compatible. it came with its own connector, but didnt fit. i had to cut it off and splice in the original connector. i had to remove the burner tube to remove the original igniter because the wire was routed around and behind the tube. it just took a couple of screws to remove it and it pulls right off. this is all accessible on the top of the broiler drawer. installed the two screws on the new igniter and plugged in the connector. started oven and igniter started glowing bright immediatly. oven burner lit off within a few seconds. everything working like new now.

I was at my in-laws and they expressed how they needed to buy a new stove, since it stopped working. They explained the problem to me and I immediately checked the broiled (it worked fine). Knowing that stoves have 2 electric igniters, i knew 1 was bad.
The site got me the part in 3 days (regular shipping).
The repair was pretty easy.
- Removed 2 screws that hold the floor of the oven.
- Removed 2 nuts that held the igniter to the oven.
- Removed the bottom drawer of the oven, and unplugged the igniter.
- Finally, I screwed in the new igniter, fed the wire down to the plug and plugged it in.
- Then I tested the oven before putting it back together, IT WORKED!)
The only negative was, when I was removing the racks and pans from the oven, one of them happened to be filled with oil for frying, and it got all over me. Be prepared for anything when working on someone else's appliance.

I unplugged the power then removed the shield from in front of the valve location. I removed the wire shield and pulled the wire connector into the burner area. I unplugged the wire then removed the burner frame pulling it out, I removed and re-installed the igniter kit. I also had to cut the connector from the from the old igniter (about 3" up)then remove the connector from the new (cutting flush to that connector) and switched out the connectors using the porcelane wire ties provided with the new unit. I then re-installed the burner frame making certain that the wires were in the proper location. I plugged the connectors together ensuring proper locking, pushed the wires back into the hole, replaced the wire shield and then the valve cover shield. Restored power the igniter lit brightly and approximately 4-5 seconds later the oven burner lit. I checked connector because another person on the site stated that it may be the wrong one and that the wire connectors would be sent in case that were so.

removed oven door racks and pan from bottom of oven. removed warming drawer unplugged oven igniter removed 2 hex screws from bracket on igniter. replaced with new one fiched wire down to warming drawer area plugged in. replaced door and warming drawer. works fine now. very ez to do!

removed the old part .I had to join the new part by clipping the clip off and us the ceramic caps which was included with the new part.Everything went well.

Replaced the igniter. Quite simple.

I went on youtube and found videos for similar problems. Then was shown how to test the part to confirm if it was good or bad. After testing with an amp meter I confirmed that the ignighter was bad. I ordered the part and got it in 3 days. I put in the new ignighter turned on the oven and placed inside the oven a temperature gage, when the timer rang on the stove confirming that the oven was up to temperature, I opened the oven door and the temperature gage read 350 deg. exactly the temperature I had set. So for under 50.00 I fixed the oven, a service call would of been 80.00 plus parts. Thanks for the help. Bob Murphy

Removed lower oven panel and replaced oven igniter.

Remove the warming drawer to get to the electrical connection, Remove two nuts from igniter, replace igniter fasten the nuts and connect electrical. Oven works fine. BEST PART OF THIS......SAVED $250.

Just replaced the igniter and it works fine now

igniter was not glowing bright...removed old one and installed new one all within 30 mins.Part was exactly as description and picture really helped. Turkey for Thanksgiving will be served cooked by my oven.Thanks.. Daniel

Needed to replace the part in oven which lights the gas. My husband is more of a supervisor rather than a fix it yourself kind of guy. But he did it and it was hilarious watching him squeeze in a place meant for a smaller person with tiny hands, while holding the flashlight in his mouth. But the oven is fixed and works like brand new. Thank you

replaced the ignitor and it has worked perfectly the last week - Service repair walked away from the service call stating it was too random - you website state 91% cause, you were correct I wish I had done this 2 years ago

First I took off the oven door which was a snap. Then I removed the bottom drawer. I removed the i guess you would call it the spill pan which was two screws. removed the guard plate and disconnect the igniter and remove the two screws that was holding it in place. Peace of cake.