JGRP17WEWW General Electric Range - Instructions

Take bottom drawer out, take two 1\4 inch drive screws out from back bottom of inside of oven. Take out protector plate . Remove 1\4 inch drive screws from bottom burner[back of oven] where drawer was. Extract burner. Rest is self explanitory. Good luck. . . . . .

To diagnos i removed the lower tray and could see the ignitor was not lighting like the broiler was,the same ignitor.I had the same problem as some of the other people so that was helpful.I removed bottom storage tray and could get to the wires and it was an easy fix,took about 40 minutes total.This website was very helpful also with excellent service on the parts and i saved a bunch of money!
Thanks,Gerald

First I got on line to make sure I had the right part. After it was delivered I started the project by unplugging the stove! A magnetic end for your socket device is very helpful.:-)A good alternative light source is esential to see what's going on.There is no need to pull out the stove.I then took off the oven door which is an easy process(Pull up off the hinges). I also removed the oven grates and lifted out the bottom plate which included the heat defuser.I then took out the storage drawer. The next step was to remove the rear screw and front 2 screws holding the burner tube. Then it was just a matter of pulling up on the tube and removing the screws holding the igniter.The 2 wires were then cut and the new igniter wires were spliced in with the new wire nuts that came with the package. I also used a little electrical tape to hold things in place. Then it was just a matter of replacing everything in reverse and plugging the stove back in. Everything works fine.

It was a few days before Thanksgiving and our oven went out. We had out of town guests coming for a week stay with us. I fortunately found the instruction manual and hopefully thought it was the igniter. I called Parts Select and unbelievably I received it the next day. I checked with the helpfull hints to installing it. It was easy and quick. The only problem I had was laying on the floor to long, I had trouble getting up. I'm 70 years old. Thank you Parts select for having the part and your incredible delivery.

Just replaced the igniter, was pretty easy

I went to the GE website, did the trouble shooting and read that 80% of the time the igniter was the problem. I read how others did the repair, ordered the part and followed their steps. My only problem was the two screws were at a tough angle to get to, if it wasn't for that it would've been 15 minutes

put the new part

Took the pan off the bottom of oven (2 screws). Took one screw out of burner to get at igniter. Removed 2 igniter screws with ratchet which was a little difficult. Then cut the old wire since I was provided with wire nuts and using the old connectors and wire nuts, rewired the igniter and replaced the screws and replaced the pan on the bottom of the oven. Access to the wires is through the bottom pan by removing the drawer.

FIrst, have the tools you will need, a straight ratchet screwdriver, 1/4" ratchet/screwdriver set, a 90 degree offest, some small plastic bags to hold/tape screws to the pieces you take apart, and a flashlight.

1) Turn off the breaker to the oven.

2+ 3) Take the oven door off. It simplly lifts straigh up off the hinges. ( It slides back on hinges when you're done.) Take off the botton kick plate by pulling top down. The botton in on a hinge.

4) Slide out the oven racks.

5) Take out the inside bottom cover of the oven which is inside the oven. The cover lays flat and is attached by two screws in the back inside corners. You have to lift it up/out back edge first. (Put it back front edge first, & realign screw spring clips if necessary)

6) Slide out the oven gas line/igniter cover, which is found immedicately under the oven cover, by taking out one screw front center. You will then see the igniter in the back of the oven next to the gas line. *DO NOT UNDO ANYTHING HOLDING THE GAS LINE*.

7) From under the oven, take out two side screws helping to support the botton tray, one each middle side. Then take out the two most front bottom screws. while holding the front edge up. (It will drop) Then slide it out of groves in the back of the oven.

8) Take out the inside cover (2nd botton cover) by taking out the two screws from the inside front top. It will also slide out. This will totally open up access to the igniter bracket attacked to the gas line. *NOTE CURRENT PLACEMENT OF IGNITER WIRES*

9) Take off the two igniter bracket screws. Put the new igniter in its place.

10) Cut one wire off the old igniter as close to the old igniter part as possible. *YOU WILL NEED ALL THE EXTRA WIRE* *DO ONE AT A TIME* Match the same wire position old to new, strip 1/4", twist and ceremic wire nut provided together. Do the same with the second wire.

Put all parts back in reverse order.

The broiler still worked, so I knew the issue was not with the power or gas to the oven. It was easy to remove the inside bottom of the oven to look at the igniter and burner. 4 screws hold the oven bottom in place. After the igniter was in view, I turned on the oven to see if it glowed, which it did not. 2 more screws out and the igniter was loose. The two wires coming out of the igniter go through a hole in the back of the oven to a compartment below the oven. This compartment is accessed by removing the bottom drawer and removing a panel in the lower back of the oven held in by 4 screws. After disconnecting the wires, I attached a thin pull wire to them then pulled the igniter out through the oven door. The pull wires made it easy to feed the new igniter wires through the back of the oven. The rest is a reverse of the process.

well part was correct .Got it fast son installed it so do not know what tools, But at last one think i did clean under the stove, which was needed. Would do business again if needed.
Thank you

Your web site depicting igniter was perfect in helping me diagnose prob. Two other commentaries by people who fixed the same problem were also right on. I had to take out a second plate below the top ( primary ) drip plate, & above the warming drawer. Though akward to lay on one's belly to fix, all went well. Started right up & Christmas cookie -baking ensued. Great web site, great instructions. Thank you very much. Jeff M. PS, I initially went to another web site, starting with an "A", and found it hard to use & vague.

1) use screwdriver to remove screws securing lower pan in oven (screws are at back of oven)
2) remove lower pain to expose igniter and burner
3) remove lower storage drawer
4) disconnect 2 igniter wires from where they are attached underneath
5) use nutdriver to remove burner from above and below (this makes it easier to remove the igniter)
6) use nutdriver to remove the faulty igniter
7) cut off clips from faulty igniter leaving enough length to strip and then attach with ceramic caps to new igniter. (be sure you attach the right clip to the right wire)
8) reverse the process to install the new igniter.
20 minutes tops

Moved stove out from wall and unplugged 110 cord. Removed broken igniter from broiler with nut driver. Removed protective cover from back of stove. Cut off plug from existing igniter wires on the back of the stove. Installed new igniter and fed wires trough to the back of stove and connected the wires with the supplied wire nuts. Reinstalled protective cover on the back of the stove. Plugged the 110 cord back in and returned stove back to the original location.

I removed the oven racks and the bottom cover. The bottom cover had 2 hand tight screws. Then I had to remove the silver sheet metal plate attached with 1 screw. Then I removed the 2 small screws that held the old Igniter in place. Then removed the 2 wire nuts connected to the oven wires. The new igniter fit in the same place as the old and I attached it using the same old screws. Then I connected the wires using the new wire nuts provided in the igniter kit. After testing the new igniter by turning the oven on to 200F, i replaced all the parts i removed including the silver plate the oven bottom and the racks.