JMP26G2J5 General Electric Range - Instructions

Ordered new burner and drip pan. New parts arrived within 3 days. Removed screw holding the hinge, removed clips from porcelain insulator, removed old burner, then installed new burner, reinstalled tilt lock hinge, replaced drip pan and ring and set burner in place. The whole installation took less than 10 minutes, and it works perfectly.

Read and follow the instructions. Be careful when stripping old wires to attach to new element. Fit the element to ceramic casing prior to attaching wires. If new element does not seem level after replacement heat a large pot of water. The element will expand and the weight of the pan of water will settle the element. "Physics 101"

Followed instruction that came in the new parts. Each element took about 10 minutes to remove, inspect the wires, clean the connections and reconnect the new elements. The element covers that came with the kit were easy to install, and everything fit just fine. Most important thing is to turn of the electrical power to the unit BEFORE you start.

1. Turn off power to range and remove element.
2. Remove clips from ceramic guards.
3. Disconnect wiring.
4. Connect wires to new element.
5. Install ceramic guards and clips
6. Attached element to range.
7. Restore power.

I removed the two screws that held the element in place. I pulled out the element and disconnected the two wires and unscrewed the screws and then place the new element to it. screwed the wires back to the element wires and then push it back in. Replaced the outside plate and screw the two screws back in.

Save myself money by doing it myself.

Unplug range from its 220V source. Make sure range is not hot from recent usage. You’ll need a #2 Philips driver, preferably one with 14-18 inch length. The old screws will likely be very stubborn about coming loose. Two of them hold bottom element in. Remove the back panel so access to the two connectors on the bottom element are easily removable. Be very careful not to the let the wire connectors from the heating element drop down into the insulation. For the top element, there are four screws holding it in place, I found it was easier to access these two screws leaning the range backward at a slight angle. Take special care again not to let the wires drop down into the insulation. The connectors to the old element will likely need some extra effort to remove. The reconnection to the new elements should be ok. Make sure all screws go back in that were removed. The new elements will be amazing, and baking and broiling will be like new again.

I removed the screws that held the element in place. This was the most difficult part because clearance was tight between the screws and the element. I gently pulled the element out enough to expose the wire connections. I disconnected the wires and removed the element. Installation was the reverse - connect the wires, re-position the element, re-install the final screws.

A friend had stopped by and insisted on replacing the heating element on my 32 year old range. It took him all of 45 minutes to replace it, and now it works like a charm.

removed the end caps from the stove panel, unscrewed the back, unscrewed the old switch, CAREFULLY noting which wire went to which terminal, removed the wires.
Reversed the process. took a little longer because I felt compelled to do a thorough cleaning while I was there.

I didn't turn the power off which was risky and dangerous, however it was very easy just removing one screw a couple of wires and installing the new one. VERY EASY!

The very first thing we did was turned the circuit breaker off and unplugged the range.
My husband removed the back panel and unplugged the switch. Drew a diaghram of the color coded wires. When we received the new one he broke the extension bar off to fit the knob, plugged it in and we were back in business. It was very easy for my husband as he is a mechanic (millwright). However, if you are mechanically inclined it is an easy fix.

I removed the two screws that held the element panel on. I removed the lead wires from the element, making sure the wires didn't retract back into the wall. I put the new element in, reconnected the lead wires and put the screws back in. I was concerned that the panel wasn't as long (top to bottom) as the previous one and it barely covered the hole, but it works fine. It would have cost me $60 to have it done by my home warranty company so I saved almost half.

First, I shut off the power to the oven... no point in risking a nice electric shock. The next thing I realized was I could not see anything... enter the flashlight. Then, well then it was really easy. I removed the two screws that held the element to the back wall of the oven, pulled the element (and some of the insulation stuffing) out about 2 inches to reveal the two wires and their connecting screws. Unscrewed them, put the new element in, reconnected the wiring, restuffed the stuffing and reattached it to the oven wall. Turned on the power and she heated up faster than ever. Speaking of fast, my part arrived the day after I ordered it and that was with regular shipping. Thanks fellas.

First I removed the two srews that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about three inches and disconnected the two wires. I attached the wires to the new element and we had our oven working again. I really am happy with the timely service I received from PartSelect and would recommend them to anyone.

file/grind inner corners to fit into ceramic blocks correctly