JGRS14BEWB General Electric Range - Instructions

I'm still repairing. The igniter was replaced with new but it still doesn't glow. I'm waiting for a schematic that is being mailed to me from GE. In the meantime I have borrowed a test instrument to check that the system is hot when the BAKE button is pushed. The controls light up as expected but no glow. The BROIL igniter glows when activated, lighting the broiler. The new Ignite was packaged very well so it isn't suspect. I LEFT YOU FOR A FEW HOURS. I tested the electrical with a meter and got zero voltage. I removed the wire nuts and using two alligator clips I connected the meter to the bare wires coming from the oven wall. I then hit BAKE again and BINGO! Replaced the defective wire nut and now the igniter is happy as a clam. --- Thanks for your interest and for expediting the material.

I followed the other instructions folks had left, and things went very well. I did unscrew the mount to lift the entire flame assembly out, which made getting at the screws for the igniter much easier. Once I had done that, I clipped the wires close to the old igniter, one at a time, then connected them to the wires on the new igniter. The part came with ceramic wire nuts for this, which I was glad for because I wasn't clear how best to connect wires in a heated environment. Put everything back together and it worked perfectly.

Replacing the igniter was easy to do, that only took 15 min. The time was needed to take apart the bottom of the oven so I could get to the nuts on the igniter, and the time to put it back together again. I'm very inexperienced at this sort of thing so since I could do it I'd encourage anyone to give it a go, and anyone that knows what they're doing will do it much faster.

Removed the oven door and the bottom plate. Remove existing igniter by cutting the wire and unscrewing two small bolts. The installation of the new part is the reverse.

Remove oven door,just open slighty and pull door up no tools.Take oven draw out.Remove oven floor held by two nuts in rear.You will now see the igniter,remove two screws holding it and the one screw holding the long tube at the front.The best tool I used was 1/4 drive socket set with a 6" ext.I did'nt need a new bracket that came with the part and I cut the old igniter wires and wired in the new one because it had a special connectors.If your are a handy person,its EASY.

removed the old part with socket set and replaced the part with a fresh one. turned on oven, igniter heated up and oven lit.

Step #1: Remove 2 screws at the inside top of the oven door that holds the inner/outer oven door together. Step #2: Remove the screws from the inner door that hold the plastic handle end caps to the door. Tip: Use a file to dress up the tips of the metal handle bar so that it fits easily into the new plastic handle end caps. Step #3: Install the first new plastic handle end cap. Step #4: Slide the metal handle bar into the plastic handle end cap that was just installed on the outer oven door. Step #5: Place the other plastic handle end cap on the metal handle bar. Step #6: Install the second plastic handle end cap on the outer oven door. Step #7: Reassemble the oven door by installing the screws that were removed in step #1.

Unscrewed three screws from each oven door. Unbolted the end pieces and replaced with new ones. Reinstalled oven door screws. Nothing to it.

By myself

Removed bottom of oven Removed bottom drawer. Removed two screws holding burner, disconnected both wires.Removed two screws holding igniter,installed new igniter reversing procedure.

Could not get at the screws holding the igniter to the buner, without removing the burner.

Followed the instructions

Troubleshooted ALL possible causes and after perusing the owners manual and PartSelect blogs. Can't say it enough, people!! Do your homework- there are 3 possible parts that can cause the oven not to light; Igniter, gas safety valve, or thermostat / power switch assy (oven control knob).
SAFETY FIRST...UNPLUG the stove before performing any of the following electrical circuit checks (besides voltage check, which is ONLY for those qualified for electrical circuit maintenance)

Remove oven door by opening slightly and pulling straight up- it will slide right off the hinges.
Remove the 2 thumb screws holding the lower oven plate and slide it toward the back while lifting up on rear of plate to clear the front flange and then remove the plate.
The burner tube baffle plate will come right off after removing the one retainer screw (1/4" nut driver).
(Optional)Remove the whole broiler drawer by sliding it fully open and lifting it up by the front end.
Now you'll have clear access to the igniter, which is mounted on the rearward end of the burner tube with two 1/4" machine screws. Disconnect the igniter wire connectors at the gas safety valve and wire harness. Remove it and SAVE the screws for mounting the new igniter!! NOTE: .
Handle the new igniter CAREFULLY!! (don't drop it or bang it against anything solid or the heating element will break).

1) Checked t-stat switch on oven knob - good (closed or 0 ohms when turned on). This verifies you are getting supply voltage to the igniter circuit. Lift the oven top by the front corners until the supports lock into place. Locate and disconnect wires on back of switch and measure ohms across switch terminals.
2) Checked voltage at igniter wire terminals with oven knob turned on (this step ONLY for those familiar with proper use of multimeter and training for electrical circuit maintenance). This verifies the gas safety valve switch is closed and correct voltage is available to power the igniter (120V).
3) Since I had proper power to the igniter wire terminals with the oven knob turned on past 200 deg., that verified a malfunctioning igniter.
4) I chose to solder and heat shrink the wire connectors to the new igniter but you can use the supplied ceramic wire nuts. Be sure to leave enough wire length when you cut the wires off the old igniter. Mount the new igniter to the bracket with the screws you saved and be sure to snug them good but DON'T overtighten and strip the threads!! Connect the two igniter wires to the gas safety valve terminal and the harness connector. Make sure the connections are snug!!
5) Reinstall the burner baffle plate and lower oven plate.
6) Remount oven door and turn on oven past 200 deg. The igniter element should glow bright red after a few seconds. Gas valve should open and burner will light a few seconds later.
NOTE: Make sure the gas cock for the oven (on the side of the main gas regulator valve) is flipped to the open position or gas will not flow to the oven burner. The main gas regulator valve is located under the range top toward the rear (trace the gas lines if you can't locate it readily)

I had to replace the ignitor. The wiring was simple. Just had to connect two wires. The difficult part was removing and replacing the ignitor. It is suspended by 2 screws that are very difficult to access.

First had to disconnect the old igniter by removing screw with a small wratchet wrench. Then pull out approximately 3" of wire from the old igniter, cut off old igniter, attache replacement igniter with supplied wire nuts, shove excess wire back into wiring compartment and then attach the new igniter.

I removed the igniter by first removing the oven racks then the oven pan and oven catch pans. I open the lower draw to the oven and removed the drawer. I reached back under the oven and clipped the wires that run to the igniter and striped a half inch of plastic to expose the wire. I removed the igniter from the burner and replaced with new igniter. I then fed the wires back through the hole the cut wires came out of and used the wire nuts supplied to connect. Replaced other parts in reverse order and tested. Works great.