JGRS14BEWB General Electric Range - Instructions

1. I have searched info on the internet and found that site.
2. Initially I could not figure out how to unscrew ingniter. After reading more post I have found out how to access nuts underneath.
3. After I have removed lower drawer and unscrewed metal cover and then inginter nuts.
4. I have got a part with two wires attached to the igniter and two porcelan insulator, so it was very easy to cut old wires and connect with an igniter wires in parallel

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Diagnosed the problem as igniter failure and called local parts outlet. They gave me the part number, but said they were out and directed me to another vendor. When the part came, it was the wrong shape but I tried it anyway. Result - the igniter glowed which allowed the gas to flow, but igniter, being the WRONG PART, didn't ignite the gas, allowing a dangerous build-up of gas.

I then went to PartSelect, looked up the part, saw it was the correct one, ordered it (arrived within 3 days) and, because I already had the pans and covers off the oven, it was a matter of minutes to install. Works like a charm and, though I usually like to buy locally, I'll check out PartSelect first next time!

I removed the 2 screws that held the bottom oven plate in place. Then I removed the one screw holding the bottom burner in place in the front. I then reached into the rear area and unscrewed the last 2 screws securing the burner. I disconnected the igniter wires at their push-on connections and lifted the whole burner/igniter unit out. I relaced the igniter using the 2 attachment screws, and I cut the old igniter's wires with connectors and spliced them into the new igniter's wires, using the ceramic wire nuts that came with the new igniter. I reassembled the unit and it worked first time.

First i removed the inside bottom of the oven where i could get to the actual glow plug igniter and removed the two screw that held the igniter in place. I than pulled the entire oven out allowing me to access the two wires connecting the igniter to the stove. I disconnected the wires and had to splice the wires as to be able to reach the appropriate connections. I reinstalled the igniter and upon testing the igniter worked properly. The entire process took me one hour.

Followed suggestions of previous posts. Removed oven door, warming drawer, pan in bottom of oven. Removed element to replace igniter. One thing I would add is I put a small piece of electical tape on the heads of the two 1/4 in. screws for the rear element bracket. This kept them from falling out of nutdriver.

Following the recommendations of others I decided to attempt repairing the oven by myself. I unplugged the stove. I removed the oven door, the drawer, the drip pan from below the oven unit and the oven pan to access the igniter bracket. All screws were 1/4" hex head except the oven pan which were slotted. I disconnected the 2 wires. I removed the old igniter and cut the 2 wires close to the old igniter to allow extra length to splice to the new igniter. The new unit included 2 wire-nuts. It was simple to wire-nut the new wires to the old ones and install the new igniter. I reassembled the pans I had removed and the door. I plugged the stove back into the wall. The new igniter worked perfectly. My wife continues to tell me how great it is to have a working oven again and how much faster it seems to heat. I am thankful the oven didn't fail while we were cooking the Thanksgiving turkey the week before. I debated calling a repair technician or shopping for a new stove. The price of the new igniter and the description of the procedure convinced me to attempt a repair. I am very pleased with the results.

removed bottom of oven.removed heat shield.i
then unscrewed the wire nuts to the igniter.i
then tookout the burnner with the igniter attached.
i unscrewed the two screws holding the igniter
in place,and put the new one on.i then screwed
the wire nuts back on,and put it back togather.
it works great,thanks for the help.it saved me alot
of money.

Open door lift door off hinges lay door face down on flat surface remove 6 phillip head screws 3 on each side lift housing out of door case remove end knob phillip head screws installed one knob insert bar attch second knob and tighten screws lay housing back into casing attach screws doing one at a time on each side slide door back on to hinges and test operate, you are done!

It was fairly difficult. I pulled out the old racks and put in the new.

First I disconnected power, then removed two screws from igniter & cliped two wires. Then installed new igniter & with the wire nuts supplied refastened to supply lines in oven.
PartSelect makes repairs quick & easy. It just takes a little smarts on your part.

well first off I repair commercial HVAC equipment for a major drug company so I think I've done it all.I thought it cant be much different than any burner assembly.I made it harder than it had to be,anyone can do this.I removed lots of unneccessary things.Let me help you only take out the drawer on bottom of stove.so I started on top and worked my way down.save time and open the stove to were the door stops then have faith and give a good yank.this will remove the door,dont be afraid it will go right back on those two hinges easy.now that this is out of the way remove the bottom plate that covers the burner assembly (2 screws)in back pull it out then you see the igniter.as I said before with drawer pulled out remove the 2 1/4"nuts screws holding it up then from bottom.Unplug this stove then remove the 2 places its plugged in to.after you remove this there are 2 screws that hold it into the igniter remove them .cut the wires with enough room to re use the plug ends.strip the wires and use the wire nuts that they provide then put back together with new wires on new igniter then.re attach.put everything back together in the reverse order you took them apart.plug in stove and see the igniter light up again and light stove.do not call repairman you can do this.save your money for you its bad enough you have to buy anything else.

I frist remove the screws that hold the element in place disconnected two wires.That didn't take long.Call aronud my area for part.They wanted 90.00 plus taxs.Went on line to find it much cheaper came in the mail very fast and put it in my self.Very easy and saved money too.It took less then 3 mins to put in.If I could do it you can too.Thank You,Bearice & Robert Reynolds P.S works great and no yelling at each other.Easy

Removed grills, oven bottom, heat deflector, and the two igniter mounting screws. Pulled out igniter, removed two wire twist caps and old igniter. Cut off ragged ends of wires coming from the stove side and re-stripped the wire ends. Attached oven side wires to new igniter wires using new twist caps. Reassembled everything in reverse order. Tested oven operation to ensure that the gas ignited promptly. (It did).

It was easy. I removed the guts. Removed the heat deflector (one nut). Then removed the igniter and the cover over the wires in order to unplug the wires so I could work with attaching the new part on top of the counter. Replaced everything and it worked great. When the old igniter did not work, the gas valve would not let the gas into the oven, Once replaced, you can here the gas flow in and ignite. Repair man wanted $65 to show up and $175 for part and labor. I paid $77 for the part and did it myself. I do not consider myself handy.

Go to utube videos for this are there