JBS55CK2CC General Electric Range - Instructions

The repair was very easy and your video was extremely helpful. Especially regarding pulling the oven out and removing the back wiring cover to get to the spade terminals, rather than trying to do it all from inside the oven. Added bonus was that I got that pocket for the oven cleaned out like new! Eww! Pulling it out also gave me enough reach without having to remove the oven door (didn't realize you cold do that). Best part though was your mention that GE often DROPPED the zeros in their parts numbers. Couldn't locate the part on any website until yours noted this. so.. you got the sale. Went back to GE's website, located it and found your quality part was also less expensive! 11 minutes start to finish, quick shipping and works great! I'll be back! Thank you!

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

Had to move the range out of its little cubby hole in the kitchen so that I could have access to the back of the range. This process probably took the longest. After that it was a piece of cake. Took about 15 minutes to complete the job. So easy, eve a caveman could do it.

Baking element : Pull range away from wall. Disconnect the power. Remove back center panel. Remove range door. Remove range racks. Disconnect push on terminals fron baking element. Remove two hex head screws. Remove baking element. Reassemble in reverse order..........Temperature sensor: with back panel removed, unclip the electrical connector. Remove one hex head screw. Remove temperature sensor. Install in reverse order.

Lots of jiggling until I found the screws to remove. After finally getting the top off the base there was the Instructions on a pamphlet taped to the bottom. The key tho get the top off is to remove the face and remove the proper screws( they are identifiable)unplug the electric plug 2 screws on the back sides and poof it is free!

Pulled the stove out from between the cabinets, used a blade screwdriver to pop the oven door retainers down and lifted the oven door out, removed the racks. used a 1/4'' nut driver to remove the 5 screws holding the broiler in place. From the time I unplugged the stove from the outlet until I plugged the stove back in was 15 min. I would suggest wearing gloves because the metal frame around the burner element has sharp edges.

I knew I had a bad control board. Using the repair videos, replacing this part was very easy to do. While I was at it, I replaced my oven temperature sensor. as well, and even though it wasn't bad, I replaced my oven heating element so that I could get some more mileage out of my 14-year-old range. The issue: after completing my repair actions, my oven element still would not heat. I double-checked my connections and I discovered I hadn't ensured one of the wires on the control board was properly seated. This was one of the wires that go to the heating element. After ensuring proper connection, everything worked perfectly!

couldn't get exact fit--out of production. mounting bracket at back of range for new element too small. took bracket off old element. cut down bracket on new element with tin snips, drilled holes thru it and old bracket and screwed together. at this point the new element was to long & touched oven door. removed spacers that came with new element (used old support to attached to roof of oven) and pried elements apart (which made element wider & shorter). working good.

I started with changing the bulb. I removed the small bracket that holds the glass cover over the bulb unscrewed the bulb and reversed to replace the bulb. To replace the control board I removed the top plate on the back of my stove took the small screw's out of the control panel and unplugged the wire's. Plugged the wire's into the right spots on the new control board and put it back together.

Unplugged Stove. Removed two screws. Unplugged two wires from heating element. Connected the two wires to new heating element. Replaced screws. That's all. 5 minute repair job.....(45 minutes to find right socket haha)

Ordered new heating element on Friday afternoon (3pm) and received part on Saturday at 1:00pm. Impressive! (standard shipping)

removed the two screws,then pulled element out and removed the wires,took out element that needed replacing, then connected new element . the repair job took no time at all. i was really impressed with how easy it was.

popped out the remainder of old lens, then pushed in new ones and slipped on plugs.

First I cut the circuit at the breaker, and then pulled the range from wall to access the access panel. This top panel was held with 4 screws and removable with a standard phillips head screwdriver.

I then removed the 5 wire-crimped fasteners from the defective surface burner switch. (I first labeled these wires to ensure correct placement to the new switch). There were an additional two screws behind the corresponding knob that needed to be removed in order to completely remove the old switch.

The new switch was installed in reverse order to the steps indicated above (two screws behind knob, 5 wire-crimped fasteners, 4 screws to panel). Range was pushed back into position and breaker turned on.

Installed the new brackets at the back of the drawer with the 2 screws provided. The new rear mount design is much better than than the old side mount.

First I removed the screws and popped off the existing element. One of the wires "disappeared" back into the insulation, so I had to remove the back panel of the oven to access that wire and push it back through the opening. Then I attached the new element to the wires and replaced the finishing screws.