JCGBS23DET2BB General Electric Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Akshay from Bridgeton, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WB16T10046
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Burner had uneven flames
Too easy a five year old could do it
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- Customer:
- Mohammad from BARTLETT, IL
- Parts Used:
- WB16K10055, WB16T10046
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The old burners were damaged by the prior owners.
The repair was extremely easy. Just removed the old burners and dropped in the new ones. No tools needed.
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- Customer:
- Robert from SOUTH ELGIN, IL
- Parts Used:
- WB16T10046, WB16K10055
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Burners wouldn't light
Had two burners on the stove that would not light. Had tried cleaning them but they still did not ignite. Replaced both burner heads. Once replaced. they ignited right away and have worked ever since.
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- Customer:
- Roscoe G from ROCHESTER, NY
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Light burnt out.
Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.
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- Customer:
- Mark from ANDOVER, OH
- Parts Used:
- WB04K10021
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Rubber cracked
Took 5 minutes to repair easy peasy??
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- Customer:
- Steve from WOODHULL, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB21K10100
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
The front left burner would not turn because the burner valve was physically stuck and wouldn't turn.
Start by shutting off the main gas supply to the range and unplugging the electric cord.
You will first need to take the plastic control knobs of from each individual burner (they should slide straight off).
Next, you will need to remove two phillips head screws on the front face of the panel. They are located on the right side of each rear valve burner stem that is sticking out through the panel.
Next, open the oven door, locate and remove the three screws on the bottom of the front face panel. The front panel should now come off exposing the top burner manifold and all of the valve burners.
The next step would be to take the burner grates and each round burner cover off (no tools required). This will expose the top of each individual burner. You will see screws that hold each individual burner down to the stove top. On my stove the heads were all rusted and I could not remove them. If you can remove all four of your burners and disconnect the wire on each ignitor and set the burners aside.
Next, go back to the front of the stove where you took off the panel and you will see two metal clips on each side of the stove top. Push each one of these in with a screwdriver and gently lift up on the stove top. It should hinge up towards the back of the stove and give you full access to the burner valve you need to change.
Next, use a box end wrench (I think it was 1/2") and remove the gas line attached to the burner valve. After the gas line is removed, take out the bolt and clamp that holds the burner valve to the manifold. The old valve should drop out.
Install the new valve making sure the rubber gasket is seated properly, reattach the clamp and bolt and reinstall the burner tube line.
Before you put the range all back together turn the gas back on at the appliance shutoff. Locate the gas orifice for that particular burner and hold your thumb or finger over the hole. Turn on the burner and leak test the burner tube connection and where the valve is clamped into the manifold.
Shut the burner back off if the leak test passes and reassemble the stove.
If your burners won't come out of the stove because the screw heads are rusted off (like mine was), you can carefully lift the lid a couple of inches to gain access to the valve. Make sure you don't bend or kink any of the burner tubes.
You will first need to take the plastic control knobs of from each individual burner (they should slide straight off).
Next, you will need to remove two phillips head screws on the front face of the panel. They are located on the right side of each rear valve burner stem that is sticking out through the panel.
Next, open the oven door, locate and remove the three screws on the bottom of the front face panel. The front panel should now come off exposing the top burner manifold and all of the valve burners.
The next step would be to take the burner grates and each round burner cover off (no tools required). This will expose the top of each individual burner. You will see screws that hold each individual burner down to the stove top. On my stove the heads were all rusted and I could not remove them. If you can remove all four of your burners and disconnect the wire on each ignitor and set the burners aside.
Next, go back to the front of the stove where you took off the panel and you will see two metal clips on each side of the stove top. Push each one of these in with a screwdriver and gently lift up on the stove top. It should hinge up towards the back of the stove and give you full access to the burner valve you need to change.
Next, use a box end wrench (I think it was 1/2") and remove the gas line attached to the burner valve. After the gas line is removed, take out the bolt and clamp that holds the burner valve to the manifold. The old valve should drop out.
Install the new valve making sure the rubber gasket is seated properly, reattach the clamp and bolt and reinstall the burner tube line.
Before you put the range all back together turn the gas back on at the appliance shutoff. Locate the gas orifice for that particular burner and hold your thumb or finger over the hole. Turn on the burner and leak test the burner tube connection and where the valve is clamped into the manifold.
Shut the burner back off if the leak test passes and reassemble the stove.
If your burners won't come out of the stove because the screw heads are rusted off (like mine was), you can carefully lift the lid a couple of inches to gain access to the valve. Make sure you don't bend or kink any of the burner tubes.
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- Customer:
- Myra from SCOTLAND, MD
- Parts Used:
- WB19K10044
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
my ignitor stopped working ,then the gas pressure regulator and safety valve needed replacing.
Super easy for me! My son-in-law is a contractor, I gave him the parts and let him do the work.
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- Customer:
- NEIL from ROCKY POINT, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB08T10026
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
BASE OF BULB BROKE OFF & WELDED TO SOCKET
PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.
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- Customer:
- Margaret from SARASOTA, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB7X7289
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Broken right END of oven door HANDLE (3 separate pieces assembled)
(Followed the ORIGINAL manufacturer's instructions for assembly we retained when purchasing the appliance.) Replacing the broken handle end involved removal of the LEFT handle end as well as the broken RIGHT end, the center rod handle, and unscrewing the outer door face from the inner door face. Had to find specialty screwdriver for non-standard screw heads. Sigh. It was impossible to replace the door handle, as it requires removing the entire door - It is too heavy for one person to hold in place while the 2nd person tried to blindly replace screws thru a 1/2 inch slit in the outer and inner door pieces. Hiring a handyman is impossible leading up to the holidays, so we decided to just buy a new stove. Something that should be really simple to replace for less than $50 is now a major budget outlay due to a crappy design.
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- Customer:
- Dana from LEEDS, AL
- Parts Used:
- WB01K10112
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers
some of electrodes not working at times,found were bad,wires had some insulation missing, clips looked burnt,found all new parts replaced
the electrodes on this model have to be removed before you can raise cooktop, once cooktop is raised remove wire from burner bracket, use needle nose pliers to squeeze bottom of clip,remove &replace with new parts.
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- Customer:
- Dottie from SAN DIEGO, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB03K10216
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
broken range knob
placed on range
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- Customer:
- Louis from LEAGUE CITY, TX
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Change bulb
Easy
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- Customer:
- Ann from Ashland, MA
- Parts Used:
- WB29K10006
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
worn and pitted burner caps
Removed the old caps and replaced with new burner caps. The stove top looks brand new. Thank you.
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- Customer:
- craig from unadilla, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB28K10190
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Front orifice tube broke
The repair went easy the tube was a perfect fit
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- Customer:
- Arthur from Oakland Gardens, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB03K10216
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Broke a knob on my oven
All I had to do was put the new knob on. No tools were required
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