JCGB600SET1SS General Electric Range - Instructions

I was disappointed with this parts recommendation..neither part solved the problem, a first with partselect. The Range Oven sensor change out was easy and straight forward once the back lower panel was removed. The SPARK MODULE was time consuming..the module is located and accessible only by removing the range top. Having gas burners requires unscrewing all the burners before tipping up the top and removing it, then removing the guard over the Module is next..it's a project, sure wish it worked when I was done!..turned out to be the oven glow bar....

removed lower broiler pan so i could see burner igniter. removed the heat shield in front of the gas valve. (1 screw). started oven. no response from igniter. no gas flow at all. if igniter is bad it will not allow gas to flow. ordered new igniter from parts select for my oven model. got it in a couple of days. it wasnt exactly the same as the original, but was compatible. it came with its own connector, but didnt fit. i had to cut it off and splice in the original connector. i had to remove the burner tube to remove the original igniter because the wire was routed around and behind the tube. it just took a couple of screws to remove it and it pulls right off. this is all accessible on the top of the broiler drawer. installed the two screws on the new igniter and plugged in the connector. started oven and igniter started glowing bright immediatly. oven burner lit off within a few seconds. everything working like new now.

removed oven door racks and pan from bottom of oven. removed warming drawer unplugged oven igniter removed 2 hex screws from bracket on igniter. replaced with new one fiched wire down to warming drawer area plugged in. replaced door and warming drawer. works fine now. very ez to do!

Bake ignitor would not glow. Removed racks and lower pan to access the ignitor. Removed two attaching screws and unplugged electrical connector. Installed new ignitor. Hint: Gas will not flow unless both the bake and broil ignitors are operational. Ignitors are interchangable; you can test ignitors by swapping them.

Removed lower oven panel and replaced oven igniter.

I unplugged the power then removed the shield from in front of the valve location. I removed the wire shield and pulled the wire connector into the burner area. I unplugged the wire then removed the burner frame pulling it out, I removed and re-installed the igniter kit. I also had to cut the connector from the from the old igniter (about 3" up)then remove the connector from the new (cutting flush to that connector) and switched out the connectors using the porcelane wire ties provided with the new unit. I then re-installed the burner frame making certain that the wires were in the proper location. I plugged the connectors together ensuring proper locking, pushed the wires back into the hole, replaced the wire shield and then the valve cover shield. Restored power the igniter lit brightly and approximately 4-5 seconds later the oven burner lit. I checked connector because another person on the site stated that it may be the wrong one and that the wire connectors would be sent in case that were so.

I went on youtube and found videos for similar problems. Then was shown how to test the part to confirm if it was good or bad. After testing with an amp meter I confirmed that the ignighter was bad. I ordered the part and got it in 3 days. I put in the new ignighter turned on the oven and placed inside the oven a temperature gage, when the timer rang on the stove confirming that the oven was up to temperature, I opened the oven door and the temperature gage read 350 deg. exactly the temperature I had set. So for under 50.00 I fixed the oven, a service call would of been 80.00 plus parts. Thanks for the help. Bob Murphy

Took out bottom of oven, took apart burner & cover. Replace the igniter, , put back together. BAM

two 1/4 inch screws took oven tray out....two 1/4 inch screws took out ignitor..the replacement would not plug into the wiring, so I cut the plastic plug off and wire nutted ends together..baked cookies after!!!!

First removed 3 screws at burner front and back then pulled out lower storage drawer to disconnect plastic connector, removed and had to cut plastic connectors to use ceramic wire nuts (supplied with parts box) I had to work from underneath stove as well as in the oven it self, if the main door is easily removable it would have helped a great deal but four hours later

Nylon support is attached to the oven frame with a screw having a .25 inch socket head. The screw is mounted in a recessed opening on the support, so a socket is needed. I needed to purchase a proper size socket from the hardware store for a few dollars since the smallest one I had was 7mm. I guessed at the size and was correct. Repair was easy and took a few minutes.

The job was made very simple primarily due to the repair video that was available on your site when I ordered the part that I was looking for. The job can be done in less than 15 min, but it took me a little bit longer because of some rusted screws that didn’t want to come out so easily. I also decided to take of the front door (not mentioned in the video) just to make it a bit easier to reach the igniter component. The door comes off very easy by opening the door about 6 inches and pulling up and off of the door hinges. Again for a novice like me the video was a life saver.

Although the original oven design called for a round igniter, the most recent replacement, done by a service mechanic, utilized a flat igniter. I compared the appearance of this flat igniter to the igniters offered by PartSelect and found that the GE igniter (not the Roper which cost twice as much) matched exactly. I installed it and that solved the problem (of insufficient igniter heat to turn on the gas).

(I could hold a torch on the igniter to start it, then it would work, but would not initially heat up on its own). Pull up and remove oven door. Remove racks. Remove 2 thumb screws in back of bottom plate and remove plate. Remove 1 screw on cover plate. remove 2 screws on igniter and unplug. Splice wires from new igniter to old plug with ceramic wirenuts (included). (Manufacturer changed plug design). re-install everything. (Sears wanted $80.00 for the part, Appliance Factory wanted $47.00).

new igniter had a plastic wire coupling that did not fit with the soves wires; cut off coupling and connected wires with ceramic wire nuts given, remounted ignitor and fired up the oven.