147210 General Electric Range - Instructions

Had to use the wire nuts because the plug did not fit.
I used the old plug and spliced the wires.Thanks for the ceramic wire nuts.

Took bottom cover in oven off with screwdriver . Then remove two small bolts with socket to igniter , unplug from under stove and pull out from inside oven. Reverse to install. Wala done and working great.

I was sure happy that they thought to add in the ceramic wire nuts. This Hotpoint stove had a direct wire, no wire clips like the new part had. I cut the wires and used the enclosed ceramic wire nuts. The stove works great. Parts Select helped in locating the model number which made this transaction a smooth one. Thanks. Always remember to turn off gas line and unplug any item you work on.

Bake ignitor would not glow. Removed racks and lower pan to access the ignitor. Removed two attaching screws and unplugged electrical connector. Installed new ignitor. Hint: Gas will not flow unless both the bake and broil ignitors are operational. Ignitors are interchangable; you can test ignitors by swapping them.

removed oven door racks and pan from bottom of oven. removed warming drawer unplugged oven igniter removed 2 hex screws from bracket on igniter. replaced with new one fiched wire down to warming drawer area plugged in. replaced door and warming drawer. works fine now. very ez to do!

Replaced the igniter. Quite simple.

Remove the warming drawer to get to the electrical connection, Remove two nuts from igniter, replace igniter fasten the nuts and connect electrical. Oven works fine. BEST PART OF THIS......SAVED $250.

Replaced the ignitor in the broiler. Two screws holding the ignitor in place and two to the cover holding the quick connect plug.

Removed lower oven panel and replaced oven igniter.

I unplugged the power then removed the shield from in front of the valve location. I removed the wire shield and pulled the wire connector into the burner area. I unplugged the wire then removed the burner frame pulling it out, I removed and re-installed the igniter kit. I also had to cut the connector from the from the old igniter (about 3" up)then remove the connector from the new (cutting flush to that connector) and switched out the connectors using the porcelane wire ties provided with the new unit. I then re-installed the burner frame making certain that the wires were in the proper location. I plugged the connectors together ensuring proper locking, pushed the wires back into the hole, replaced the wire shield and then the valve cover shield. Restored power the igniter lit brightly and approximately 4-5 seconds later the oven burner lit. I checked connector because another person on the site stated that it may be the wrong one and that the wire connectors would be sent in case that were so.

I went on youtube and found videos for similar problems. Then was shown how to test the part to confirm if it was good or bad. After testing with an amp meter I confirmed that the ignighter was bad. I ordered the part and got it in 3 days. I put in the new ignighter turned on the oven and placed inside the oven a temperature gage, when the timer rang on the stove confirming that the oven was up to temperature, I opened the oven door and the temperature gage read 350 deg. exactly the temperature I had set. So for under 50.00 I fixed the oven, a service call would of been 80.00 plus parts. Thanks for the help. Bob Murphy

It was quite easy. Uplug the ingnitor and remove two screws from bracket holding it in place along side gas pipe. Plug in new ignitor and and reinstall two screws thru bracket to secure ignitor against gas pipe. Thats it!! Oh, you must remove floor of oven (two Screws,back wall)and remove broiler and door/tray by pulling all the way out to access the ignitor and gas pipe assembly.

Old school, so I first thought it had to be a thermostat, but realized it did not have a pilot light, but an igniter. Read a few stories of others who had the same issue. Ordered the part, came in early. By that time I knew what I had to do to replace it. Only issue was the part came with a male connector when the original was female. But part came with a couple of ceramic wire nuts, so I guess that is not uncommon. Cut the connectors off and used the wirenuts. Oven is working well.

I followed the directions that I read online and the job was a breeze. I started by disconnecting the electricity, and sliding the oven out from the wall, then taking the oven floor cover off, then ordered Chinese, received a phone call from my sister( blah,blah,blah), Disconnected the old piece, paid for Chinese Food, ate Chinese, installed new piece, reinstalled oven floor, reconnected the electricity, pushed oven back into place, lit oven, turned it off and then tested it again. All in less than an hour.

Every part of the part replacement was easy with the exception of removing one of the two screws that were holding the igniter to gas bar. No fault of the part to be replaced in any way. One of the screws that hold the igniter to the gas bar stripped when I was attempting to remove it. Had to use a small cut off wheel and my dremel to cut the screw and then was able to remove it by screwing it all the way through the hole it was in. Then tapped the two existing screw holes to 10/32 and attached the igniter with new screws. Everything else was about as easy as you can get.