MCBS585WM1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

turned electricity off, removed element using a screwdriver had to take the back panel off, attached new element put stove back and tried it out and it worked probably 20 minutes. Also need to comment that was totally shocked how fast the element was shipped to me, ordered the part in the p.m. and it was here not the next day but the next ....awesome

First we removed the screws inside the oven. Next, the oven backing was removed by unscrewing one side and one bottom bolt which exposed the clips for the burner. The clips were removed from the old burner. The old burner was pulled through the fiberglass protection and out of the oven. The new burner was inserted into the oven and the prongs were pushed through the fiberglass protection. The screws inside the oven were reattached. The clips were attached on the outside of the oven. The backing was slid into the right holding piece and the bolts on the left and bottom were attached.

verified switch operation , checked continuity of burner element found open ordered new part and installed next day
after extremely fast
service from partselect thank you

Removed the old handle with the new one.

removed the top section on stove and removed the wires off swtitch and put on new one then put new switch in

Isolated to control switch.

Replaced

Pull stove out from the wall unplug it remove the old switches and replaced them withe new one. they work just fine.

After searching the internet for a cause for the burner not getting hot it looked as though it was the burner switch. I ordered the switch and installed it. Behold it still did not work. I then ordered the burner, installed it and it worked. So I had a 50/50 chance as to which part was the problem. This was my first stove repair and I found it easy to do. Finding something to hold up the ceramic cooktop took the most time. I cut a piece of wood to prop it up while I replaced the burner.

I had to remove the back panel on the stove to free up taped wires to get more length.

The only tool needed was a nutdriver to remove the lamp socket. I needed my head mounted light to see what I was doing, and everything went smoothly from there. Simple job.

After not using our oven all summer a mouse had been hiding out in the oven insulation and apparenting was starting to make a home. We caught the mouse, but when we turned on the oven recently we noticed a horrific smell and immediately turned it off. It was evident that the smell was not burnt food. We jumped on the internet to see where and how to access the insulation in our oven and found Parts Select. That is when we saw that this is actually a common problem when an oven is not used for a prolonged period. Ordered the new insulation part for our oven and paid extra to have it delivered more quickly. Pulled out the oven from the wall and unplugged it. Took off the top of oven and removed old insulation. Yuck, that was disgusting. Cleaned the inside surface with disinfectant before putting in the new insulation. Took about 20 minutes from beginning to finish.

My wife could open and close the drawer without too much difficulty, but occasionally, it would not close properly and she would have to empty the contents do could alaign it properly to close. The last time she was talking about buying a whole new drawer. I asked her what the part looked like, as I never to fight with it. I went online and found the part for $1.16 plus shipping at $8 plus. It was well worth the time and effort, and I now have a happy wife. Paul Parker

Removed element with 1/4 " nut driver, unhooked element,started to install new element and discovered the wires were too short and had to remove cover on the back to replace wires on the new element. The wires on my range were not as long as the ones showed on the video.It was still an easy repair and the delivery time was less than 2 days. excellent service. Thanks

Used the TS guide, because I had no idea what the problem was. That was easy step by step. Thanks. Gave me a list of two parts that could fix the problem. Picked the higher percentage part (97%). Followed the simple install instructions and it was successful. One problem I did encounter was the two wires that it connected to were short. Removed the back center plate to gain access to the wires. I was able to extend them enough to make the connections to the bake element. If not for that the repair would have only taken maybe 10 minute's.

Difficulty was in determining the right model number and part number of a switch. Noted that the left front burner came on when the switch for the left back burner was turned on. By inspection I found the left front burner switch had become faulty by actually hearing an electric arc in the switch and smelling the oder in the switch. With help from the person I called I was able to determine that the Model Number on the actual stove was wrong. It had an extra 0 between the W and F which she said was a common error in the GE model number. I then gave the switch number I found on the switch to the contact person and she was able to verify the right part number. It was relatively easy to replace the switch by taking off the back upper plate then taking off two screws that held the switch to the stove. The part came quite quickly once ordered. Sears repair wanted $75 just to diagnose then the cost of the part. I got the switch for $69.