JGBC20WEA5WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Check the switch with an ohm meter, 0 resistance in the closed position = a bad switch. I went to the web site found the part. ordered it next day it shows up. Removed the pot grids and all control knobs for the burners and oven lifted the top of the stove up, and off. I removed face plate behind the control knobs 3 screws, I removed the 2 screws holding the oven switch. opened the oven and un cliped the thermostat wire from the back wall. Uncoiled new wire feed under the burner shield to the back of the unit and back down the old hole cliped in the new wire. put the 2 screws into the new switch and re-assembled the rest in the reverse order i took it off . all this while watching my 11 month old grandaughter.

Checked switch using test meter and found voltage going in but no voltage out when switch was turned on. Removed all burner knobs, raised top cover and disconnected two wires from thermostat switch. Removed the thermostat probe from oven interior by pushing it through hole in top. Removed two screws holding switch and pulled out entire assembly. Used a wire coat hanger pushed through hole for probe so I could see where to fish the probe into the oven. Hooked up electrical connections and tested. Everything worked well.
Received part from Partselect in one business day. Excellent service and response.

The repair was fairly easy, you take off all the burner knobs there are small screws on the face of the cover panel and a few on the bottom That come off the cover panel should come off after you remove the screws and the switch for the oven light the wires just clip on the switch there are two .the thermostat is held on by two small screws that are on the cover panel.you lift up the burner panel you have room to feed the thermostat wire in the stove,there is a small hole in the back were you feed the wire through then the metal part is held in place by two small clips that are in the oven on the back wall.I didnt have to trouble shoot becase I knew what part I needed because it was broken,It was a fairly easy repair hopefully this is helpful

Good Luck

Take the advice that it's the igniter. Even thought the igniter lights, it doesn't mean it passes the correct current to the valve. Too much or too little won't work. I'd suggest changing the igniter first. I used to be in the valve business, that kind of valve lasts millions of cycles. The igniters on the other hand break down after a5-10 years

Pulled the power plug from the wall and Removed the rear top panel. Removed the 4 phillips head screws holding the timer in place and replaced it with the new.

I had to open the top of the gas range and remove the front panel where the knobs are. I was able to identify where the thermostat wire went.
I had a little trouble figuring out how to thread the thermostat wire into the back of the range but then I poked the old thermostat through the hole from the inside so I could tell where it went.
I just had to put all the screw back in and check it and it worked fine.

I had to pull the drawer to get to the burner, then remove the heat shield to get to the connections. I took out the screw at the end of the burner tube, then the two screws holding the tube to the back wall. I had to pull the connections through the back wall of the oven, and disconnect them. I then removed the two screws holding the igniter to the old tube, and used them to connect the new igniter to the new tube. At that time, I also had to cut the old connections off of the old ignighter, and put them on the new one. I also had to redo the connection to the gas valve at the bottom of the tube. I then put all the wire and connections back through the hole in the back of the oven, connect the tube back to the rear of the oven, and the single screw to hold the end of the tube. I replaced the the heat shield, and tested. Everything worked fine.

remove two screw lift top slide glass in place install top done deal

I found the best was to remove the oven door and the broiller drawer. Then I removed the panel that seperates the two areas. This gave me great access. Next I removed the shield (1 screw) and the burner (3 screws). Then the inlet pipe (don't forget to turn off the gas, as I did). Remove the valve (2 screws)...........Remove the mounting bracket from old valve and install it on the new one. Then it's just a matter of reversing the prior steps and your'e done!

My husband and I simply took the burner units out of the packing, took the old ones off, put the new ones in. The new units needed to be leveled, but the leveling nuts included fit perfectly, and the entire repair took less than 15 minutes.

My Hotpoint gas oven became extremely hot after using it . Only after unplugging the electrical cord, turned it off. Replacing the control valve (thermostat) solved the problem. The stove top had to be pried up with a flat screw driver then propped up. Prying off the oven control valve revealed two mounting screws (philips head). Next remove thermostat sensor bulb inside oven at back wall. Remove old thermostat control and bulb assembly. Installation is reverse order of disassembly.

removed two screws with screw driver,and replaced panel

I turned off the gas flow to the appliance, removed the old oriface spuds with the adjustable wrench, inserted the new oriface spuds and tightened them with the adjustable wrench. The double burner assembly just dropped on. They fit perfectly. I did not have to use the leveling nuts that were included with the burners. The old levelers were still in place and set perfectly for the new burners. Very easy repair, and the range works like a new one.

I was very pleased with how quickly the new oven rack arrived and it was a perfect fit. Thanks.

Removed oven racks, oven floor tray and shield to access burner. Initially began to replace only electric igniter (just two screws) and burner break valve but noticed burner tube was corroded and had large hole near igniter. Ordered a new burner pipe. Hardest part of this repair was the burner valve. It has a compression fitting to the aluminum supply tube that needs to be seated well without bending the tube. The electrical connectors (2) have plastic shields on them that are somewhat brittle, perhaps because the oven is about ten years old. Had to be very gentle with them when swapping them from old valve to new so as not to crack the plastic.
The real trick was figuring out that the valve break needed to be adjusted for LP supply. It shipped configured for natural gas. Upon initial install the flame level in the oven was much to high. After asking around I discovered that the brass nozzle needs to be tightened down clockwise with a wrench until flush with the base in order to set it for LP.