CVM9215SL1SS General Electric Range - Instructions

The new turntable shipment was super fast!!! I received it only a few days after ordering it. Installation was nothing more than placing it in the microwave oven.

GREAT Transaction!!! Thanjs!!!

Open the box that the part came in and place it in the microwave. The best is how fast it came to my home. Thanks

While cooking squash for 20 min the microwave quit. No lights, nothing. Initially, I looked at fuses and tested thermostats whille leaving the unit in place over oven and removing control panel. One thermostat one base under fan showed no continuity so I replaced it just to find it was normally open so the problem remained, no power. After looking at schematic I saw the negation thermostat on the top of the megatron which would require removing the unit from the wall and disabling the unit cover , removing the vent duct. Immediately, I knew that had to be the problem since there was nothing more difficult to reach. Sure enough, after disassembling the unit, removing everything removable, I tested it and it was dead! No continuity! After replacing, everything works fine. Other than being a pain in the *** , it was pretty easy. Just a ton of screws to remove everything very obvious. The frustration is that there are two fuses, and two other thermostats right up front that would have been easy to replace but nooo. Can’t be those :-).

Unscrewed numerous screws holding the "body/shell" to the microwave. Removed body. I then unplugged top door switch, replaced it with new one, and "tested" the new one. I fixed our $400 convection micro with an $18 switch. NICE!

I took the cover off, and replaced the glass-- the difficult part, was ordering the glass..on the list of parts to order-- the description of the glass was mis-leading

Followed the online videos to enter the cavity to the switch holder. Noticed right away the dreaded capacitor was in back right corner behind where the touch pad had been removed. I isolated the capacitor with an old computer mouse pad for extra safety. Took some manipulations to get the switch mount out from behind the wire bundles. Once out front, easy to use small flat blade screwdriver to release each switch and replace with matching new switch. Only one switch was bad but replaced all three. Back together and working great.

Had to take to a local glass shop for sizing and to remove sharp edges. Will never order again.

Odered replacement

Two screws to remove upper from vent. Two screws to remove the didgit panel lift ip to remove and put aside remove the two screws that hold the door sensors. Depress the tab to remove the defective sensor disconnect the electrical connector and replace the new sensor snap it back into the holder install the two screws, install the didgital panel and vent panel to complete the job. Please be aware that there is a video of this procedure on Y tube

Removed the outer cover to access the door switches. Turns out there were three switches, but I determined that only two were bad. When the small colored tab on the switch is pushed in it should make a clicking sound. The two bad switches had no resistance and did not make any noise when pressed. Removing the switch is relatively easy, you simply pull it away from a couple small tabs holding them in place. After reconnecting the wire leads, insert back into the holding tabs and install the cover.

This is sometimes described in other repair notes as "microwave 'runs' when door is open."
With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open.
Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower.
There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon.
Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.

If confused just go to YouTube. They can show you how to fix anything. Very simple replacement for both charcoal and regular filter. A snap.

Pulled it from the wall remove the front vent covers removed the control panel remove the door switches by a special screw driver bit which looks a star remove the electrical terminals pressed the plastic clip pulled the switch replaced it with new one then followed initial steps backward

llation

I placed the glasstop on the sprocket