PGS968SER2SS General Electric Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- michael from evansville, WI
- Parts Used:
- WB13K21
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
oven wouldn't ignite
Pretty easy in all. The connector from the igniter to teh power sorce didn't quite fit. Ijust cut off the new one and spliced the old one back on. Probably could have made my life easier if I took off the oven door, but it just meant I had to reach more. Works great, and other the connector, which I didn't really think would fit a 15 year old oven,it was very easy/.
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Oven would not heat
This would've been an easy repair, but I ran into some complications.
First I removed the thumb screws holding the bottom oven pan, took the pan out, and also took the bottom panel off the front of the oven.
This gives you access to the burner assembly. I disconnected the wire to the ignitor. I then removed one screw at the front, and two in the back of the burner assembly with a 1/4 socket wrench.
The burner assembly came out. I tested the ignitor for continutiy with a multimeter to ensure this was the faulty part. There was not continuity, so I knew the ignitor needed to be replaced.
This was when I tried to unscrew the ignitor, and both screws stripped their threads on the burner mounting plate. Complication #1. Seems with age, that mounting plate tightened up on the screws.
I cut the screw heads off with a dremel and cutting wheel to get them out. I'm glad I did this before ordering the new part because I needed to order the replacement screws too.
The burner mounting plate for the ignitor needed to be re-tapped to get the new screws in with a 10-32 tap and power drill.
Once the mounting plate was properly rethreaded, I attached the new ignitor, and reattached the burner assembly to the oven.
When trying to connect the wires, the plastic connectors wouldn't click together. They matched up fine, but wouldn't go all the way in. Complication #2. While the plastic connectors were properly mated, the inside pins were both female. The old ignitor had male pins on it, the new one had female pins. So I removed the burner assembly again, cut off the new ignitor connector and spliced in the old ignitor connector with the included porcelain wire nuts.
I put the oven back together again, fired it up, and it worked great.
First I removed the thumb screws holding the bottom oven pan, took the pan out, and also took the bottom panel off the front of the oven.
This gives you access to the burner assembly. I disconnected the wire to the ignitor. I then removed one screw at the front, and two in the back of the burner assembly with a 1/4 socket wrench.
The burner assembly came out. I tested the ignitor for continutiy with a multimeter to ensure this was the faulty part. There was not continuity, so I knew the ignitor needed to be replaced.
This was when I tried to unscrew the ignitor, and both screws stripped their threads on the burner mounting plate. Complication #1. Seems with age, that mounting plate tightened up on the screws.
I cut the screw heads off with a dremel and cutting wheel to get them out. I'm glad I did this before ordering the new part because I needed to order the replacement screws too.
The burner mounting plate for the ignitor needed to be re-tapped to get the new screws in with a 10-32 tap and power drill.
Once the mounting plate was properly rethreaded, I attached the new ignitor, and reattached the burner assembly to the oven.
When trying to connect the wires, the plastic connectors wouldn't click together. They matched up fine, but wouldn't go all the way in. Complication #2. While the plastic connectors were properly mated, the inside pins were both female. The old ignitor had male pins on it, the new one had female pins. So I removed the burner assembly again, cut off the new ignitor connector and spliced in the old ignitor connector with the included porcelain wire nuts.
I put the oven back together again, fired it up, and it worked great.
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- Customer:
- Scott from ARDMORE, PA
- Parts Used:
- WB49K10037
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Hole burned through deflector oven and metal dropped onto igniter and burned it out
Removed bottom shelf from inside oven, turned it obj and replaced the oven deflector with only a screwdriver
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- Customer:
- Willie from Shreveport, LA
- Parts Used:
- WB13K21
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Igniter went bad
1. Unplug from electrical outlet. 2. Turn off gas valve. 3. Remove oven door. 4. Remove bottom drawer. 5. Remove oven shelves. 6. Remove oven floor, take out the two screws at the rear. 7. Unplug the igniter from the wire harness, you can reach it from where you removed the drawer. 8. Remove the igniter, by unscrewing the two bolts using your nut driver. 9. Replace with new igniter. 10. Put everything back together, starting with # 9 and work your way to #1.
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- Customer:
- Peter R. from Riverside, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB13K21
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Ignter would glow but gas valve wouldn't open
I removed the door and the racks, and the flame spreader. I removed the 4"X6" shield loosen the circular flap to plug the new igniter to the recepticle. Turn the oven on to check the operation and if it comes on, button it back up. remember open the oven door approx 3" and pull upwords to remove the door. I would say 90% of the time the igniter is the problem.
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- Customer:
- Carolyn from Oakdale, AL
- Parts Used:
- WB13K21
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Gas oven igniter for a GE Profile XL44
Once we knew which part was needed, we went on to your site and orded the part. It was delivered the next day! Partselect.com is bookmarked on every computer in our household, including mobiles. It's great to know there is such a fantastic resource for do-it-youselfers. It took 5 minutes to remove the old igniter and plug in the new. A screwdriver is the only tool required.
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- Customer:
- Joyce from SALEM, WV
- Parts Used:
- WB13K21
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
The igniter would glow but the gas would not come on.
I followed the video instructions on the site. I unplugged the power supply and turned off the gas supply. I then removed the plate out of the bottom of the oven to get to the igniter. Then I removed the screws and unplugged the igniter to remove the old part. I had to purchase two porcelain wire nuts because the new part connection did not match up with the old connection. The repairs were quite simple and I had my oven back and working in no time. I am glad I read the comments from others because I thought it was my gas control valve, but they were right it was my igniter. This saved me time and money.
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- Customer:
- Nancy from BRICK, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WB04K10021
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
Replace Gasket to Oven
Removed old gasket, did need to use pliers. However, it was easy. The new gasket just snapped in place ...super easy.
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- Customer:
- Todd from Falcon, CO
- Parts Used:
- WB13K21
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Oven would not ignite
First I removed the broiler from the bottom of the oven, then pulled the oven way from the wall to unplug it. I then removed the two screws that hold the igniter element in place. Ironically, the plug GE manufactures is reversed so i had to strip the plug and go end and reverse the wires to attach them to the oven. I used ceramic wire attachments as plastic would surely have melted. Replaced the screws, replaced the broilers, plugged it in, replaced against the wall and it fired up.
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- Customer:
- Harold from BUCKLEY, MI
- Parts Used:
- WB13K21
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
GAS OVEN WOULDN'T LIGHT
With the model number I wnet on Parts select site and located the part through the problem finder selection,(GREATFEATURE!) (74% the problem is the Flat Style Oven Igniter) (watched the video on installation and compared my unit with the one in the video). The video explained installation completely and made it very simple. The only critic is that the oven door can be removed completely to make it easier to get in the the oven, opening part way and lifting up the oven door will come completely off. Also the broiler pan drawer can be taken completely out if you would need to get in this way for some reason. Final note: I called the local GE dealer Parts dept- they would have had to order the part anyway and it would have cost three times what Parts Select charged me.Save $$$ great! .
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- Customer:
- Daniel from Espanola, NM
- Parts Used:
- WB13K21
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Wrench set
Replace glowbar igniter
Removed the old glowbar's two screws. Didn't take a mental photo of its proper placcement (or a real one, which would've been smart). Removed screws holding 1) a heat protection plate, and 2) wire harness plate. Installed the new glowbar, hopefully, the right way - with its heat-plate facing the gasline of the over/broiler. Reinstalled the heat protection plate and wire harness plate. Hasn't blown up yet!
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- Customer:
- Chris from Inglewood, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB13K21
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Wrench set
Over not heating
1. Removed oven door..
2. Slide out floor plate of over.
3. Removed four screws securing the flame shield.
4. removed the two screws attaching the heating element to the burner.
5. Pulled heating element wires out of rear hole in oven and detached plug.
6. Attached new element and reassembled in reverse order.
2. Slide out floor plate of over.
3. Removed four screws securing the flame shield.
4. removed the two screws attaching the heating element to the burner.
5. Pulled heating element wires out of rear hole in oven and detached plug.
6. Attached new element and reassembled in reverse order.
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- Customer:
- MARY from BIG LAKE, MN
- Parts Used:
- WB13K21
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Oven would not heat to the degree you set it for
I first took out the screw which held the bottom plate for the oven. then took the screws off the igniter unhooked the wires , took the new igniter hooked up the wires then put the screws back in put the bottom plate back in and turned the oven on to test it and it worked great.
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- Customer:
- Charles from SAINT LOUIS, MI
- Parts Used:
- WB20K10015
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Oven not lighting
Secured the power, Opened the back of the range, and discovered a rodent chewed the wires in half so I striped the ends and wired them back together, the oven works great !!
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- Customer:
- WAYNE from HAMMOND, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB13K21
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Oven would not light
Tested for power to the igniter, (had power) so I knew it must have been the igniter that had failed. Removed two screws that held the shield in place, remove two screws that hold the igniter and disconnect the plug form the igniter, replace with new igniter.
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