MCB757WK1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

I was so sick of this drawer and I over heard a buddy telling a story about a website that you can get ANY piece for appliances. I take the drawer out, look up the website (partselect.com) look at the appliance diagram and find the missing piece. Order it, get it, install it. My wife thinks I'm a hero and I think I'm pretty cool too.

less then ten minutes, used a electric screw driver and in a snap, finished, I always buy my parts on line at parts select my stove is old but in good condition except parts give out sometimes and I just order part and keep on cooking.

Very simple. Lift oven door off brackets and set on floor. Remove sheet metal screws holding on existing trim piece, Clean area beneath trim.
Put new trim piece on, don't tighten any of the screws until all have been started as some adjustment is needed to align the holes for the screws.

Very was ti replace racks and knobs. Very fast mail service

I knew I had a bad control board. Using the repair videos, replacing this part was very easy to do. While I was at it, I replaced my oven temperature sensor. as well, and even though it wasn't bad, I replaced my oven heating element so that I could get some more mileage out of my 14-year-old range. The issue: after completing my repair actions, my oven element still would not heat. I double-checked my connections and I discovered I hadn't ensured one of the wires on the control board was properly seated. This was one of the wires that go to the heating element. After ensuring proper connection, everything worked perfectly!

On a 18 year old electric GE range: amazing not the exact handle but it does fit perfectly and looks great. If your somewhat handy this is very easy and can be completed in less than a half hour. Save the screws from the old handle, they can be used again.

I first unplugged the stove (alternatively, shut off the breaker). I unscrewed the terminal block screw from the stove top (after removing the stove element and burner bowl). I got in behind and removed the six screws in the sheet metal panel. Removed the panel. Unplugged the terminal block wires for each unit, one at a time, and immediately plugged in the new unit wires (after threading the wires up under the control panel). Wire polarity doesn't matter. Secured the panel temporarily with a couple of screws. Replaced the burner bowls and stove elements in the new terminal blocks. Plugged in the stove and tried each unit. Worked great! Secured the remaining screws in the rear panel and moved the stove back into place. Thanks so much!

First I cut the circuit at the breaker, and then pulled the range from wall to access the access panel. This top panel was held with 4 screws and removable with a standard phillips head screwdriver.

I then removed the 5 wire-crimped fasteners from the defective surface burner switch. (I first labeled these wires to ensure correct placement to the new switch). There were an additional two screws behind the corresponding knob that needed to be removed in order to completely remove the old switch.

The new switch was installed in reverse order to the steps indicated above (two screws behind knob, 5 wire-crimped fasteners, 4 screws to panel). Range was pushed back into position and breaker turned on.

popped out the remainder of old lens, then pushed in new ones and slipped on plugs.

disassembled bottom trim on oven door.cleaned area of excess rust and installed trim piece.

Replaced burned element, did not fix no power problem. Ordered receptor replacement, replaced it, took less than 10 mminutes, but still no power to burned. Then ordered replacement switch, replacement too less than 10 minutes again and burner works fine.

1. Unplug the range power cord from the outlet.
2. Moved range away from the wall and countertop.
3.Using a nut driver removed the 2 screws on each side of the removable panel on the back side of the control knobs and clock.
4. Using a phillips head screwdriver remove 2 screws on top side of the back side panel.
5. Using a nut driver remove 4 screws that secure the main control board in place.
6. Take photo of the wiring on the main control board if not color coded.
7. My control board, and the replacement board were both color coded with the color with the wire placement on the rear of the board.
8. Remove wires with needle nose pliers.
9. Using a hair dryer, heat the plastic control panel face plate that fits onto the front of the old control board.
10.With a putty knife carefully pry the face plate from the old control board.
11. Install the control board face plate onto the new control board.
12. Install the color coded wiring in place on the back side of the control board.
13. Replace the control board into the range, and install screws, and rear panel of the range.
14. Plug cord into outlet and test range for proper operation.

I began by turning off the breaker in the panel.
Slide the oven out into the open area.
Removed 3 screws in order to remove rear top panel.
Took 2 pictures of the wiring location on the PCB
Removed all wiring going to the circuit board total of 8.
Removed 4 screws in order to remove bad PCB.
Remove faceplate from bad PCB (you will need to place this faceplate on the new PCB.

To Install.
Reverse steps above

Prior repair job had spliced the terminal block wires with electrical tape; electrical tape caught fire while making pasta.

anyways, disconnect all power, remove burners, pull stove out. you'll need a 1/4" drive socket to get the back cover off; six bolts total. phillips head screw driver to unscrew the terminal blocks; replace with new terminal blocks; it did not seem to matter which wire plugged into the back. put everything back together. very easy.

One wire at at time then used my razor blade to get front off stuck right back on