JCGB650SEF3SS General Electric Range - Instructions

removed lower broiler pan so i could see burner igniter. removed the heat shield in front of the gas valve. (1 screw). started oven. no response from igniter. no gas flow at all. if igniter is bad it will not allow gas to flow. ordered new igniter from parts select for my oven model. got it in a couple of days. it wasnt exactly the same as the original, but was compatible. it came with its own connector, but didnt fit. i had to cut it off and splice in the original connector. i had to remove the burner tube to remove the original igniter because the wire was routed around and behind the tube. it just took a couple of screws to remove it and it pulls right off. this is all accessible on the top of the broiler drawer. installed the two screws on the new igniter and plugged in the connector. started oven and igniter started glowing bright immediatly. oven burner lit off within a few seconds. everything working like new now.

replace igniter

I first removed the oven door. I then took out the racks and removed the oven bottom. It slips out easily however, you need to take the door off. The burner cover came next. I used the 3/8 nut driver to remove the four screws. This exposed the burner and electric igniter. Two screws hold the burner tube in place. I recommend removing the burner tube due to the screws holding the ignitor will more than likely need to be cut off. Once the tube is out and you have disconnected the plug for the ignitor you will need to check the voltage at the plug (120 VAC). Place the voltage meter test leads in the oven side of the ignitor plug and set the oven to heat up. If everything is OK the meter should read 120 Volts AC. Turn the oven off and remove the leads. Take the old ignitor off the burner tube and replace it with the new ignitor and plug it back into the oven. Push the plug and wires back into the hole in the burner well and put the burner back in the oven well. Once it is all back in and bolted down try the oven again to verify the ignitor works. Replace the remaining oven parts in reverse order of removal.

e-mailed my problem and reply was igniter our gas valve took a gamble and ordered the igniter. easy fix. two srews and plug in wires.

I removed the two screws that hold the element in place then I had to splice the wires because the connector was not right and used the two wire nuts that came with the unit .

I was at my in-laws and they expressed how they needed to buy a new stove, since it stopped working. They explained the problem to me and I immediately checked the broiled (it worked fine). Knowing that stoves have 2 electric igniters, i knew 1 was bad.
The site got me the part in 3 days (regular shipping).
The repair was pretty easy.
- Removed 2 screws that hold the floor of the oven.
- Removed 2 nuts that held the igniter to the oven.
- Removed the bottom drawer of the oven, and unplugged the igniter.
- Finally, I screwed in the new igniter, fed the wire down to the plug and plugged it in.
- Then I tested the oven before putting it back together, IT WORKED!)
The only negative was, when I was removing the racks and pans from the oven, one of them happened to be filled with oil for frying, and it got all over me. Be prepared for anything when working on someone else's appliance.

removed oven door & broiler draw took out bottom panel in oven removed part from burner tube reinstalled everything piece of cake works great now

Had to use the wire nuts because the plug did not fit.
I used the old plug and spliced the wires.Thanks for the ceramic wire nuts.

It was quite easy. Uplug the ingnitor and remove two screws from bracket holding it in place along side gas pipe. Plug in new ignitor and and reinstall two screws thru bracket to secure ignitor against gas pipe. Thats it!! Oh, you must remove floor of oven (two Screws,back wall)and remove broiler and door/tray by pulling all the way out to access the ignitor and gas pipe assembly.

the part fit perfect so 5 min, done, thanks for the right part the frist time, I will be back

Unhooked old one, installed new one. Piece of cake.

I unplugged the power then removed the shield from in front of the valve location. I removed the wire shield and pulled the wire connector into the burner area. I unplugged the wire then removed the burner frame pulling it out, I removed and re-installed the igniter kit. I also had to cut the connector from the from the old igniter (about 3" up)then remove the connector from the new (cutting flush to that connector) and switched out the connectors using the porcelane wire ties provided with the new unit. I then re-installed the burner frame making certain that the wires were in the proper location. I plugged the connectors together ensuring proper locking, pushed the wires back into the hole, replaced the wire shield and then the valve cover shield. Restored power the igniter lit brightly and approximately 4-5 seconds later the oven burner lit. I checked connector because another person on the site stated that it may be the wrong one and that the wire connectors would be sent in case that were so.

Just replaced the igniter and it works fine now

Removed oven convection fan cover for more room to remove/replace lower oven bottom. Deflector is attached underneath oven bottom and you will need new self tapping sheet metal screws to replace old ones. My deflector actually had hole melted in it from glowbar igniter directly underneath it. Glowbar remains white hot until selected oven temp is reached...poorly designed.

replaced the ignitor and it has worked perfectly the last week - Service repair walked away from the service call stating it was too random - you website state 91% cause, you were correct I wish I had done this 2 years ago