JGAS730EL4WW General Electric Range - Instructions

No longer carry the one to our stove so it was substituted with Nafisa on it. You could see all the electronics so we had to pry the old face off the old one blew it in place, but a clock was reversed from timer, but it works.

I put it in the same way tuck it out

This gas range had an oven that would heat, but it wouldn't hold it at a stable temperature. Say you set it at 300 degrees. Well, it'd head up to broiling temperatures, then drop down to like 200 degrees, then 400 degrees (You get the picture).

My guess was that the thermostat, given that this oven was ~20+ years old, was no longer able to detect correctly the temperature inside the oven.

The thermostat sensor is made up of the housing (The part that sits behind the oven temperature control knob), a long wire (so you can route it to the inside of the oven), and the probe itself (Which I boldly assume is the thing that measures the temperature inside the oven)

TL;DR:

-Pull oven from wall.
-Turn off electric and gas.
-Remove the grates and drip pans off the top.
-Pry the range's cooktop up (It's on like a hinge and is designed to lift up. You have to play with it a bit with like a screwdriver on the sides (One on each side). If you pry just a tad, you'll notice these prongs that act like detents. (LIFT CAREFULLY, the heating elements are still connected via their gas lines! They're flexible, but don't man handle the thing!
-Once that's up, it's time to finally start removing the thermostat which is the knob that controls the oven temperature. Pull the plastic knob off which will expose the two screws you need to detach it from the oven (Phillips head). Be super careful. You don't want to drop these screws. You'll be struggling to fish them out of the empty space that sits between the thermostat and plastic knob.
-Once that's loose, open the oven door and detach the thermostat from the back of the oven. Recycle the prongs holding the old thermostat sensor for the new one.
-Go to the back of the range. Like the actual back part of it.
-Frustrate yourself with pulling out the thermostat through the route it's been put in. It's difficult to route it through the tight spaces, but not complicated. Keep a mental note of this route and copy it with the new thermostat that you have to install.
-Don't fret, when it comes time to wire the new thermostat sensor, it's actually a lot easier than you would think to find that little hole in the back of the range that you have to slot it through. It's just slightly covered by insulation. Pulling it slightly aside, you'll see it very easily.
-Screw in the thermostat housing at the front of the oven.
-Frustrate yourself again by routing the wire while taking care not to bend the probe (This is my assumption not to bend it and I think it's a safe assumption to make)
-Find that tiny little hold in the back of the range again, insert the probe through it, then use those recycled prongs to hook that probe into place.
-Yay, you're almost done.
-Reinsert knob on thermostat.
-Turn gas and electricity back on.
-Give it a test run to see if you did it right.
-if it still doesn't work, then it might not have been the thermostat giving you problems.
-If it does work, put everything back the way it was.
-You're done.

Followed you tube instructions I found on line via parts select recommendations.

My husband and I probably could have done the repair in 15 minutes except for the difficulty lifting up the range top, dropping the screws into the range where they could not be retreived, threading the thermostate into the little holes from the top to the inside of the oven and then trying to hook the range top back into place. Even with all the difficulties we still accomplished the task in one hour. Thank goodness we had 4 extra screws that worked (actually only takes 2 but of the 6 we had, 4 fell into a place you could not reach into). Glue on the end of the screw driver finally kept the screws from falling into the black hole. It was an adventure and would do it again.

Removed oven convection fan cover for more room to remove/replace lower oven bottom. Deflector is attached underneath oven bottom and you will need new self tapping sheet metal screws to replace old ones. My deflector actually had hole melted in it from glowbar igniter directly underneath it. Glowbar remains white hot until selected oven temp is reached...poorly designed.

Unplugged stove. Removed the top rear panel to see where the thermostat cable fed into the oven. Left the current cable in place and fed new cable along side the old one. Pulled out the old cable once new one was installed. Attached wires to new thermostat and installed. Turned oven on to test. Everything went great.

Cut off the power. unscrewed the cover. fed the new thermostat inside the over and rescrewed. Feeding the line was the most time consuming finding the hole to insert it in the back of the oven.

I purchased my stove second hand. It was a mess but I saw a gem under all that dirt and grime. It took me a week and it looked brand new. The end caps on the oven door handle were discolored and cracked. They made the stove look old. It was an easy repair and my stove looks brand new. I will order an extra set just in case as these parts are getting harder and harder to find. I am so pleased with the original parts. They were here with in days and well before promised delivery date.

Opened up the top of the stove using a screwdriver. Lifted it up about 3 inches and legs popped out on each corner and held it in that position. Traced the wire to the back and down to the oven. Pulled new thermostat along that route. When I got to the back it was a little tricky moving the thicker end around and down into the hole without removing anything from the back- but I did manage to do it. I then unhooked old thermostat from 2 clips, inserted new one and then went to the front and unsrewed the 2 small screws behind the oven control knob. Magnetic bit on screwdriver is a must! Pulled it back and removed wires one at atime and put onto new unit, then screwed it back in place and replaced knob. Plugged it in and turned it on. It came on ,stayed lit. Turned it off and it stayed lit- surprised me. . . . . . 25 Seconds or so and it went out. . . . . Job done!!

I read the instructions from other peoples repairs. One note: unplug stove, and turn gas off, remember where wires go. I didnt have to remove top of stove completly.

Unplugged the range. Took out all the necessary screws and lifted up the cooktop cover. Unscrewed each gas tubes connecting to each gas burner's dial to allow more working space. Pulled out the old thermostat, installed the new one. Put back the gas tubes and all other necessary screws. Plugged the range and tested out the new thermostat.

Replaced the oven thermostat and calibrated the new thermostat by adjusting the temperature setting knob. Instruction I found on-line were very helpful and the repair was moderately difficult. Trickiest part was threading the new thermostat into the oven. Total repair time about 1 hour.

Turned off circuit breaker to stove, remove top panel and then the old control module and installed replacement. Power back on and top panel reinstalled. Easy!!! And Everything works like new!!!

Dryer would only heat up once or twice when first started. After reading other reports on parts select, deduced it was the coils not opening on gas valve. Like cars, electrical coils break down when they get hot. Removed vent. Unplugged electrick plug in. Pulled dryer away from wall. Tilted dryer back with help of son. Took out two screws from lower part of front panel. Picked bottom of panel up until lock springs released. Unhooked electrical connections. Removed two screws from bracket holding coils in gas valve. Put new coils in, linded up with bracket nipple hole. Then reversed steps. Working like a champ again. Watched instructional videos for some extra help. Thanks part select.