JCGS650DEF2BB General Electric Range - Instructions

replace igniter

I first removed the oven door. I then took out the racks and removed the oven bottom. It slips out easily however, you need to take the door off. The burner cover came next. I used the 3/8 nut driver to remove the four screws. This exposed the burner and electric igniter. Two screws hold the burner tube in place. I recommend removing the burner tube due to the screws holding the ignitor will more than likely need to be cut off. Once the tube is out and you have disconnected the plug for the ignitor you will need to check the voltage at the plug (120 VAC). Place the voltage meter test leads in the oven side of the ignitor plug and set the oven to heat up. If everything is OK the meter should read 120 Volts AC. Turn the oven off and remove the leads. Take the old ignitor off the burner tube and replace it with the new ignitor and plug it back into the oven. Push the plug and wires back into the hole in the burner well and put the burner back in the oven well. Once it is all back in and bolted down try the oven again to verify the ignitor works. Replace the remaining oven parts in reverse order of removal.

e-mailed my problem and reply was igniter our gas valve took a gamble and ordered the igniter. easy fix. two srews and plug in wires.

I removed the two screws that hold the element in place then I had to splice the wires because the connector was not right and used the two wire nuts that came with the unit .

I was at my in-laws and they expressed how they needed to buy a new stove, since it stopped working. They explained the problem to me and I immediately checked the broiled (it worked fine). Knowing that stoves have 2 electric igniters, i knew 1 was bad.
The site got me the part in 3 days (regular shipping).
The repair was pretty easy.
- Removed 2 screws that hold the floor of the oven.
- Removed 2 nuts that held the igniter to the oven.
- Removed the bottom drawer of the oven, and unplugged the igniter.
- Finally, I screwed in the new igniter, fed the wire down to the plug and plugged it in.
- Then I tested the oven before putting it back together, IT WORKED!)
The only negative was, when I was removing the racks and pans from the oven, one of them happened to be filled with oil for frying, and it got all over me. Be prepared for anything when working on someone else's appliance.

new igniter had a plastic wire coupling that did not fit with the soves wires; cut off coupling and connected wires with ceramic wire nuts given, remounted ignitor and fired up the oven.

Just replaced the igniter and it works fine now

(I could hold a torch on the igniter to start it, then it would work, but would not initially heat up on its own). Pull up and remove oven door. Remove racks. Remove 2 thumb screws in back of bottom plate and remove plate. Remove 1 screw on cover plate. remove 2 screws on igniter and unplug. Splice wires from new igniter to old plug with ceramic wirenuts (included). (Manufacturer changed plug design). re-install everything. (Sears wanted $80.00 for the part, Appliance Factory wanted $47.00).

It was quite easy. Uplug the ingnitor and remove two screws from bracket holding it in place along side gas pipe. Plug in new ignitor and and reinstall two screws thru bracket to secure ignitor against gas pipe. Thats it!! Oh, you must remove floor of oven (two Screws,back wall)and remove broiler and door/tray by pulling all the way out to access the ignitor and gas pipe assembly.

the part fit perfect so 5 min, done, thanks for the right part the frist time, I will be back

Unhooked old one, installed new one. Piece of cake.

Over a duration the oven burner would take time to light, then eventually not ignite at all, so repaired ignitor and alls good. Easy, easy, didn't have to disconnect gas, electric for safety.

The job was made very simple primarily due to the repair video that was available on your site when I ordered the part that I was looking for. The job can be done in less than 15 min, but it took me a little bit longer because of some rusted screws that didn’t want to come out so easily. I also decided to take of the front door (not mentioned in the video) just to make it a bit easier to reach the igniter component. The door comes off very easy by opening the door about 6 inches and pulling up and off of the door hinges. Again for a novice like me the video was a life saver.

Removed oven convection fan cover for more room to remove/replace lower oven bottom. Deflector is attached underneath oven bottom and you will need new self tapping sheet metal screws to replace old ones. My deflector actually had hole melted in it from glowbar igniter directly underneath it. Glowbar remains white hot until selected oven temp is reached...poorly designed.

Nylon support is attached to the oven frame with a screw having a .25 inch socket head. The screw is mounted in a recessed opening on the support, so a socket is needed. I needed to purchase a proper size socket from the hardware store for a few dollars since the smallest one I had was 7mm. I guessed at the size and was correct. Repair was easy and took a few minutes.