PGS968DER2BB General Electric Range - Instructions

Well first off ordered the part on Monday was here by Tuesday before I went to work. Was able to replace the part the next day and had pizza for lunch for me and the little woman.
Just also want to say Thank You.

Uninstalled the igniter and reinstalled the new one.

This job is done from the inside of the oven. Remove the drawer on the bottom. Open the oven and remove the bottom panel in oven which is fastened by two screws at the back. Lift up panel and pull foward to remove. Unscrew deflector plate and small plate that covers wiring hole. Remove ignitor from the burner. Replace ignitor. I found that you should also relpace burner at the same time. Burner usually causes the ignitor to go out. My burner had a hole in it and flames were shooting out directly on the ignitor which shortened the life of the ignitor. When you buy the burner it comes with an ignitor, you can't buy burner seperately but you can buy the ignitor seperately, so I recommend buying the kit.

installed the igniter as recommended by the web site.Fit like a glove. Works like a charm. Appliance repair would have been approx $140.00. Part plus shipping was right at $40.00. Made my day !!!

Removed the broiler pan in order to access the igniter. Removed the 2 retaining screws from the igniter. The hot surface igniter was obviously burned because a metal deposit crossed the arms of the igniter. There was a corrosion deposit on the burner that had also come into contact with the igniter. Removed the corrosion, had to cut the old electrical connector off and put it onto the new igniter by using the 2 wire nuts that came with it. Plug in the new igniter from the back side of the oven and reinstalled it with the 2 screws. Works great!!

Replace the ignition heater. The only slight problem was fishing the connector down through.Works fine.

replaced igniter/replacement part was identical/remove door, just open and lift off, remove oven shelf's, broiler and broiler draw/2 bolts on bottom back oven floor release the floor panel, lift up on back, slide forward/2 bolts release the igniter from the burner tube/only attaches on one side of igniter/have to reach in back of stove bottom opening to release the old igniter wire feed at the plastic connector clip/used needle nose plier to hold stove end of clip to release/also removed right side small back rear cover panel(2 bolts)inside oven/plastic clip end was hard to fish through the gas tube and the back of the oven, pretty tight/pushed thru with screwdriver/can also pry the back oven wall back a bit to get the new one through the same path, little opening in the bottom back, then go back to the back of the stove opening and re-connect plastic clip connector from the ignitor wire to oven feed...

I watched a video on how to replace the Oven Igniter first. Then I took out the racks, removed the bottom of the oven. Removed the warming drawer. I was able to disconnect the Ignitor through the warming drawer area, then I unscrewed the 2 screws holding the ignior in place. I was able to pull the ignitor wires through the opening and then put the new ignitor wires down the same area. It took a little wiggling but it went through. Reconnected the ignitor and put the oven back together. Started the oven and it heated up right away. Entire project took 45 minutes.

I was an easy fix on my unit due to my wiring access. All I needed to do was slide to all the internal racks and remove the cover at the bottom on the over. To access my wiring I removed the Broiler draw and then I was able to unplug the A/C 110 volt plug. Then I could see the two wire plug for the Igniter, so discounted that and removed the two screws holding the Igniter, remove it. Then placed the new one in place of the old one, installed the two screws and plugged in the Igniter plug. I then re-assembled the oven and plugged the A/C 110 volt plug and turned on the over to bake at 350 degrees and it worked perfectly.

I replaced the igniter with one ordered form Parts Select. It was the exact replacement except for the plug. The new one had female pins and the old mating surface also had female pins. Had to cut the plug from the old igniter and replace the plug on the new igniter.

A friend installed the igniter kit.

Made an educated guess that the problem was a bad oven igniter. Although the malfunctioning igniter still glowed red hot, it was not hot enough to open gas flow to the burner. USEFUL TIP: the new igniter's plug was not a smooth fit with the oven's plug - I somewhat forced them together and sure enough - no ignition. So, I cut the plug off the old igniter, spliced it on the new one (fortunately, ceramic wire nuts were included by PartSelect), and everything connected up and worked beautifully. After that it was just a matter of screwing the oven floor panels back in, and a few hundred $$ were saved for under an hour's work.

replace the oven igniter. Remove screws, couple of panels, some of the screws were stripped. hade to retap one and go oversize. plug in new igniter and re fasten. Oven worked fine .... for a week and quit. Took cover off in back of oven notice sparking in the electrical plug. When I put the plug together the first time one of the pins came out and I didnt notice It. So It made contact for a while.. Stuck a awl in the socket to make the female pin larger and put them back together. Its been working fine since.

I used the video to do the part removal and install. The video was perfect for what I needed. The only thing that was an issue was the connectors. I had to use the connector off the old igniter.

My Husband removed everything that needed the use of tools. I did the plug-in because of gentle touch needed on old parts. It went halfway on then Husband put muscle on it. We put all parrts back in place. I turned oven on and it came on quickly. Happy Wife! Happy Home!