JCBP27DM1BB General Electric Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Harriet from Jacksonville Beach, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB48T10095
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Open door. Put racks in.
nothing to it.
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- Customer:
- Robert from Austin, AR
- Parts Used:
- WB27X45466
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
clock, over control, oven light , timer did not work
remove rear panel cover, removered four screws that held control panel, disconnected colored wires, removed circuit control board, reinstall new board and connected color coded wire to the correct spot on the board, plugged in 220 volt cord, switch on circuit breaker, everything worked normal again
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- Customer:
- Rick from Tombstone, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WB44K10012
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Heating Element Burned out
The task was very easy. After recieving the replacement I removed 2 small hex head screws using a nut driver. I pulled the slip on connectors apart the reversed the steps. I was done and able to use the oven in less than minutes.
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- Customer:
- Kenneth from Salem, OR
- Parts Used:
- WB21X22134
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Flashing F2 and erratic temperature readings.
Unplugged from wall outlet, then opened oven front door. Reached in and removed two screws. Pulled oven sensor threw and detached electrical connector from old sensor. Plugged in new oven sensor and reversed removal procedure. No more Flashing F2 and oven temperature came to ready. Very easy.
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- Customer:
- BETTY from CYPRESS, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB48T10095
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
I needed an oven with three racks, mine came with two.
just slipped it in
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- Customer:
- Daryl from Savannah, TN
- Parts Used:
- WB27X45466
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Bad control board
Removed top back plate of oven. unpluged all of the wiring plugs on the control board. Removed two screws on the control board. Removed face plate from old control board and put it on the new control board. Atteched new board with the two screws. Connected all of the plugs to new board ( all plugs are color coded to board). Re-installed oven back plate. Pluged oven in. Works great.
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- Customer:
- Vicki from Irvine, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB48T10095
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Replaced damaged oven rack
I ordered the oven rack on a Tuesday and received it the very next day - was wowed at the service.
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- Customer:
- jud from gatesville, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB21X22134
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
F2 error code
Really easy fix. Unplug oven. With a 5/16 nut driver take the 5 screws out of the center long tin cover and remove. Unplug little white temperature sensor plug located between broil heating element. Open oven door and remove one screw holding temp. sensor using same nut driver and simply pull out old sensor. Install new sensor. It's that easy. No more f2 been working like a champ!!!
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- Customer:
- David from Lisle, IL
- Parts Used:
- WB21X22134
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
oven not warming, f2 indicating overheat
Removed 4 screws from back panel, disconnected small electricsl connector from sensor, removed one mounting screw from sensor inside oven,pulled wires through and removed old sensor. Fed wires for new sensor through and connected electrical connector, installed panel, installed mounting screw on sensor and checked oven, worked like a champ. Took 5 minutes.
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- Customer:
- Johnette from Baltimore, MD
- Parts Used:
- WB48T10095
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
no racks to oven
Easily glide in.
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- Customer:
- Mary Ann from Granby, CT
- Parts Used:
- WB02K10062
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Plastic glide broke
The person I spoke to knew exactly what I was trying to describe. The part arrived in 2 days. 5 minutes later the drawer was back in place. I was glad I save the screw as the part did not come with one.
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- Customer:
- Emily from Snoqualmie Pass, WA
- Parts Used:
- WB30X46986
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Broiler Element Replacement
There were two small screws at the back of the stove (this was the part that intimidated me. At first glance it doesn't look like it should be removed). But you just have to unscrew them, disconnect the wires behind them (this part can be done by hand), and pull the element out. The new element slides right in! Just make sure the power to the stove is disconnected either by breaker or by unplugging it. I'm not sure if it matters, but I made sure to connect the wires to the same side of the element that they were removed from.
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- Customer:
- Damaris from Easton, PA
- Parts Used:
- WB48T10095
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Missing oven rack
I opened oven and pushed oven rack inside.
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- Customer:
- daniel from gap, PA
- Parts Used:
- WB21X22134
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
f-2 or f-3
remove two bolts in on sensor and slip thru back un plug and reverse to put in
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- Customer:
- Raymond from Highland, MI
- Parts Used:
- WB30X46986
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Socket set
broiler element burned completely out
Moved stove out away from wall .Unplugged stove, turned gas off. Unit is a dual fuel convection. Burners are gas, oven is electric. Removed 4 screws from back shield and exposed the 2 electrical leads connected to broiler element. Disconnected the electrical .Inside oven I removed the front bracket holding element in place, then removed the 2 1/4 screws in the back holding element in place. placed new element in and finger tightened the 2 screws, next I installed the front bracket and finger tightened those. I then snugged the rear screws in followed by the front. I went to the back and reconnected the 2 electrical leads. Replaced back shield and plugged unit in and turned gas back on.Caution; Make sure your gas line is flexible before moving your stove out to far. Repair was very easy
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