JCBP35BL1BB General Electric Range - Instructions

Since the unit is a drop-in range I had to remove the heat shield/drip plate to thread the wires from the control button to the receptable. The replacement part wires were to short to make the connection so I have to use some of the wiring from the old receptable to make the connection. That is the reason for using the wire cutter and connecters.

Isolated to control switch.

Replaced

We simply typed in the model of the range and several selections of replacements came up on your website. We ordered the black porcelain ones to replace the old chrome ones, thinking they might hold up better and be easier to clean. They look great and I really think they WILL be easy to wipe up. Thank you, Part Select! Patty in Indiana

For 12 years I've been suffering with the incorrect burner bowls...I love to cook and it's really irritating when your bowls don't fit correctly. Now, I am amazed at how my burners fit! Thank you! What a Blessing!

Really easy fix. Unplug oven. With a 5/16 nut driver take the 5 screws out of the center long tin cover and remove. Unplug little white temperature sensor plug located between broil heating element. Open oven door and remove one screw holding temp. sensor using same nut driver and simply pull out old sensor. Install new sensor. It's that easy. No more f2 been working like a champ!!!

verified switch operation , checked continuity of burner element found open ordered new part and installed next day
after extremely fast
service from partselect thank you

Replacing the Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit was very easy.

1. Pull the stove from the wall a little so you can have space to work. I unplug the stove from lthe 220 outlet. Then remove the Surface Burner element.

2. Then we removed the back pannel from the stove by removing the screws with a nut driver. Only four screws to remove.

3. Once the pannel was removed. I Unpluged the wires from the stove pannel. Being careful not to damage the plug in. There were only two wires to unplug. So trace the wires to make sure you are unpluging the correct one.

4. Lift the top up on the stove and unscrewed the Terminal Block from the top of stove. We only have one screw there.

5. Pull the Terminal Block and wires out and replace with the new Terminal Block, making sure the wires were feed along the side under the top of stove so they can not be damaged. Plug in wires and replace pannel.

removed the top section on stove and removed the wires off swtitch and put on new one then put new switch in

The wire to the burners were old and needed replacement. When the new terminals arrived, my husband had gone hunting. When the parts arrived, I pulled the stove away from the wall and found the nut driver that I needed. I removed the screw on the terminal box under the burner and realized I had to remove the back panel of the stove. I unplugged the old wires and plugged in the new ones. I installed the new terminal boxes under the burners and plugged the burners back in. My stove works like new and I am thrilled that it was so easy. Thanks

The person I spoke to knew exactly what I was trying to describe. The part arrived in 2 days. 5 minutes later the drawer was back in place. I was glad I save the screw as the part did not come with one.

The task was very easy. After recieving the replacement I removed 2 small hex head screws using a nut driver. I pulled the slip on connectors apart the reversed the steps. I was done and able to use the oven in less than minutes.

Unplugged from wall outlet, then opened oven front door. Reached in and removed two screws. Pulled oven sensor threw and detached electrical connector from old sensor. Plugged in new oven sensor and reversed removal procedure. No more Flashing F2 and oven temperature came to ready. Very easy.

Removed top back plate of oven. unpluged all of the wiring plugs on the control board. Removed two screws on the control board. Removed face plate from old control board and put it on the new control board. Atteched new board with the two screws. Connected all of the plugs to new board ( all plugs are color coded to board). Re-installed oven back plate. Pluged oven in. Works great.

There were two small screws at the back of the stove (this was the part that intimidated me. At first glance it doesn't look like it should be removed). But you just have to unscrew them, disconnect the wires behind them (this part can be done by hand), and pull the element out. The new element slides right in! Just make sure the power to the stove is disconnected either by breaker or by unplugging it. I'm not sure if it matters, but I made sure to connect the wires to the same side of the element that they were removed from.

Removed 4 screws from back panel, disconnected small electricsl connector from sensor, removed one mounting screw from sensor inside oven,pulled wires through and removed old sensor. Fed wires for new sensor through and connected electrical connector, installed panel, installed mounting screw on sensor and checked oven, worked like a champ. Took 5 minutes.