JCB530SF2SS General Electric Range - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Charles from BOULDER, WY
- Parts Used:
- WB02K10158
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Drawer support broke
Remove drawer by pulling out and lifting up so drawer will slide out of range. Use 1/4 inch Nutdriver or socket - remove the screw that holds the drawer support to the body of the range. Remove support and install new one with screw Pay attention to the way the support fits. There are two holes one for the screw and the other for the plastic prong on the bottom of the support. The prong fits in the bottom hole and the screw in the above hole.
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- Customer:
- Bill from Philadelphia, PA
- Parts Used:
- WB02K10158
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Drawer sticking and not operating smoothly
I was so sick of this drawer and I over heard a buddy telling a story about a website that you can get ANY piece for appliances. I take the drawer out, look up the website (partselect.com) look at the appliance diagram and find the missing piece. Order it, get it, install it. My wife thinks I'm a hero and I think I'm pretty cool too.
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- Customer:
- Russell from Morgantown, WV
- Parts Used:
- WB21X22134
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Replace Thermostat
Pull oven out away from the wall, unplugged from outlet, removed center cover by removing 5 sheet metal screws. disconnected thermostat sensor from control cable. Opened oven door and removed screw that holds thermostat sensor. Pulled thermostat sensor out replaced with new sensor. Plugged sensor in to control cable. Replace panel and screws. Then my wife made me clean the oven. I recommend making the repair when your wife is not home.
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- Customer:
- Catherine from SEATTLE, WA
- Parts Used:
- 40A15
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The light inside the oven had burned out
0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
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- Customer:
- Nathan from Wells, ME
- Parts Used:
- WB17T10011
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Stove was not getting enough power.
My stove didn't seem to be getting enough power for the oven to heat up and the burners to get hot enough. When I checked the connection of the electric cord I found that one of the 3 terminals that the plug connects to was broken off. When the new part came I removed the old part by first disconnecting the 3 wires [black,white(ground),red] and then using a small but long 1/4 socket (that I found at Lowes)I removed the 2 screws that held the old part to the stove and the green screw under it holding the flat copper piece that also connects under the white ground wire of the part. I mounted the new piece on with the 2 1/4 screws. The new part comes with a piece of copper that is for grounding the part to the stove. When I compared it to the old part it was a little different. I first screwed the copper piece onto the stove (under the part) with the green screw then I screwed the white wire over the copper piece to the center terminal(you have to make the hole of the copper piece line up to the screw hole). I connected the other 2 wires and then connected the electric cord to the new terminal block and then put the back cover back on the stove and plugged it in. The clock came on I turned on the four burners they all got hot and red. I turned on the oven the element on the bottom got red I then turned on the broiler the top element got red. My stove is fixed.
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- Customer:
- kevin from GAYLORD, MI
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10029
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
front lift burner not working and surface light on with everything off
unplugged the range removed 4 screws from back top cover then took the knob off controller removed 2 screws from behind the knob removed 1 wirer at a time and placed it on the new controller in same order the wires came off put everything back to gather did not fix the problem .
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- Customer:
- RICKEY from MONTROSE, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB25T10041
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
lens snapped off on the inside-plug was left loose
popped out the remainder of old lens, then pushed in new ones and slipped on plugs.
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- Customer:
- Anil from Milpitas, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB24T10029
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Burner spontaneously cycled without knob activation
First I cut the circuit at the breaker, and then pulled the range from wall to access the access panel. This top panel was held with 4 screws and removable with a standard phillips head screwdriver.
I then removed the 5 wire-crimped fasteners from the defective surface burner switch. (I first labeled these wires to ensure correct placement to the new switch). There were an additional two screws behind the corresponding knob that needed to be removed in order to completely remove the old switch.
The new switch was installed in reverse order to the steps indicated above (two screws behind knob, 5 wire-crimped fasteners, 4 screws to panel). Range was pushed back into position and breaker turned on.
I then removed the 5 wire-crimped fasteners from the defective surface burner switch. (I first labeled these wires to ensure correct placement to the new switch). There were an additional two screws behind the corresponding knob that needed to be removed in order to completely remove the old switch.
The new switch was installed in reverse order to the steps indicated above (two screws behind knob, 5 wire-crimped fasteners, 4 screws to panel). Range was pushed back into position and breaker turned on.
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- Customer:
- Suzanne from Brigthon, MI
- Parts Used:
- WB31K10266, WB31K10265
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
the drip bowls were a mess- rusty and beyond cleaning
I removed the old drip pans, cleaned the range top, washed and installed the new drip pans and put the old pans, box and packing materials in the trash. In only 12 minutes my range top looked like new and the mess was picked up. Now, if I could just get the rest of the kitchen looking that good that fast!
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- Customer:
- Barbara from Richmond, VA
- Parts Used:
- WB31K10265, WB31K10266
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Needed new burner bowls
No repairs, really-just replacement, but I have been looking for the burners for three and one half years, and PartSelect had exactly what I needed for this old stove!
Theyalso had the electric element that I bought in the next order.
Theyalso had the electric element that I bought in the next order.
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- Customer:
- Sandy from Olney, MD
- Parts Used:
- WB31K10266, WB31K10265
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The original drip pans had rusted and needed replacement.
We tried to find the replacement pans at the local hardware store and were disappointed in that although they were cheaper, they were not deep enough to handle the heating elements. We were delighted to find that the parts from PartSelect.Com were genuine GE parts... installed in minutes and were delivered VERY quickly!
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- Customer:
- Angelo from Phoenix, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WB31K10266
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
drip ban needed replacing
removed heating element,removed old drip pan.added new drip pan,replaced heating element.Took less that 3 min.
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- Customer:
- Bobby from Trinity, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB31K10266, WB31K10265
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
old wore out parts
just put in the new part
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- Customer:
- Robert from Bar Harbor, ME
- Parts Used:
- WB31K10266
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Burned/scorched corroded drip bowl
No brainer. No tools. Remove burner, lift out old drip bowl, drop in new one, plug in burner, voila! Done. 10 seconds.
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- Customer:
- Kerry from Sheboygan, WI
- Parts Used:
- WB35X29668
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Socket set
Oven door gasket was damaged and leaking
I watched the repair video on YouTube and followed his instructions as much as possible. Went pretty well as I thought it would be harder. I’m pretty handy so, I was pleased.
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