JCBP350DT2WW General Electric Range - Instructions

I watched your video on the subject and followed it exactly. It explained everything I needed to know. The hardest part was CLEANING under the stove once I pulled it out from the wall!

This installation was for a replacement for one of the burner bowls on the original order. Replacement bowl fits proiperly.

Open the box and inserted the bowls

Identified the switch that went bad. Order a new one and replaced it. The part came in a timely fashion and I am pleased with the result.

Disconnected the power. Removed hex head screws from top and lower rear panel. I think there were 8 all together. Pull the knob of the burner control, removed two screws that held the switch in place. Moved the wires one at a time to the new switch, re-assembled. Burner worked properly. Very easy to find the right part from this web-site, and the instructions from others like this were helpful. Easy fix!

Checked each burner switch by disconnecting the light indicator wire. Located the switch, replaced the switch and the indicator light operated as it should.

My wife could open and close the drawer without too much difficulty, but occasionally, it would not close properly and she would have to empty the contents do could alaign it properly to close. The last time she was talking about buying a whole new drawer. I asked her what the part looked like, as I never to fight with it. I went online and found the part for $1.16 plus shipping at $8 plus. It was well worth the time and effort, and I now have a happy wife. Paul Parker

The person I spoke to knew exactly what I was trying to describe. The part arrived in 2 days. 5 minutes later the drawer was back in place. I was glad I save the screw as the part did not come with one.

Replace control switch

The part was just like the old one and would have been an easy fix except our range suffered from a lighting hit. The clips had melted together. Called a dealer and asked about a new wiring harness. He said in those cases just cut the clip off and hard wire with wire clips,or firecrackers. We used wire nuts and taped all together and the oven works just great. Nothing is ever as easy as it should be.

This repair was quite a bit more difficult then what had been described on the web site. First off, I have a double wall oven that is built in. Sliding it out of the cabinet was difficult and because oven was hard wired, I had to disconnect the actual wiring from the oven back. . Positioning the oven and allowing for it to rest on a support bench was the most difficult part The oven is heavy. Eventually, removing the back and top panels of the oven revealed the sensor connection. I was then able to feed it through the oven and reconnect all the wiring harnesses.. Getting the oven back in the cabinet was equally a challenge. But it did seem to fix the problem with over heating.

Hubby did the job..all went well except for the arthritis & having to bend pull stove out from wall ,pushing back..ha-ha.

The only tool needed was a nutdriver to remove the lamp socket. I needed my head mounted light to see what I was doing, and everything went smoothly from there. Simple job.

Thanks to Partselect's instructions the repair went very easy. When I was done and the wife finished cleaning the sides of the stove and the floor behind it, I was surprised after I plugged the stove back in and noticed the clock was only 18 minutes off! Awesome company to deal with, Thanks!

This burner is on a Monarch wood and electric range. The 8in burner shorted out and fried the switch. I had to remove the cover over the switch's. I marked each lead with paper and stapled the paper to the leads. When the switch came in I just had to reattach the leads.