JCB530DF1BB General Electric Range - Instructions

took the back panel off the range, took the 2 screws holding the switch in place, took the old switch out, marked the wires took the wires off and clipped them onto the new switch, put the new switch into the switch plate, replaced the screws put on the knob, put the panel back on the range. rolled the range back into it's place. turned the buner on to check if it worked. It did so we were done.

removed the top section on stove and removed the wires off swtitch and put on new one then put new switch in

Remove the door. Just open a little and pull up. Removed racks. Removed 3 screws with nutdriver. Pulled out housing. Disconnected 2 wires. Assembled new housing with with bulb receptacle and gasket. Reconnected wires and crimped a little to make them snug. Pushed housing back into hole. Put 3 screws back in, inserted bulb and cover. Slid door back on and done. 30 minutes at most.

Isolated to control switch.

Replaced

verified switch operation , checked continuity of burner element found open ordered new part and installed next day
after extremely fast
service from partselect thank you

Ordered new parts. Received email with tracking number. Parts arrived as promised. Turned off power at breaker (!). Removed burners and pans. Lifted the lid of the range. Inspected the plugs and discovered one had come loose from bracket and was not in straight. Reset plug in bracket. While the lid was open, placed the drip bowl in opening and installed the burner and made sure the burner was laying properly in the drip bowl. Repeat for each. Perfect fit, If done properly, the small burners should lay down flat and not rock back and forth. I have seen complaints about rocking, and experienced some of it on one burner. Make sure the heating element is set in the plug well and it should work. A little patience may be required to get it just right. Everything lays flat and the stove looks new again. I have purchased from Part Select on other projects including a dryer rebuild and a new face plate for this range. Great products, reasonable prices, wonderful tutorial videos and good service.

I watched your video on the subject and followed it exactly. It explained everything I needed to know. The hardest part was CLEANING under the stove once I pulled it out from the wall!

Exactly followed the instructional video and my installation was flawless. Now the burners power up and function like new. The whole repair was smooth and easy.

I pulled the range out, unplugged it, took the back off, unplugged the old terminal block and removed it. Attached the new block and ran the wires through to the back and plugged them in. Reattached the cover on the back of the range, plugged the range back in and pushed it back into place.

My wife could open and close the drawer without too much difficulty, but occasionally, it would not close properly and she would have to empty the contents do could alaign it properly to close. The last time she was talking about buying a whole new drawer. I asked her what the part looked like, as I never to fight with it. I went online and found the part for $1.16 plus shipping at $8 plus. It was well worth the time and effort, and I now have a happy wife. Paul Parker

Removed old socket, I had replaced with a aftermarket that really did not work well. When I recieved the terminal block kit from your company it was the proper kit. Service was better than expected, part and price was great and it took very little time ti install. Thank you.

This repair was quite a bit more difficult then what had been described on the web site. First off, I have a double wall oven that is built in. Sliding it out of the cabinet was difficult and because oven was hard wired, I had to disconnect the actual wiring from the oven back. . Positioning the oven and allowing for it to rest on a support bench was the most difficult part The oven is heavy. Eventually, removing the back and top panels of the oven revealed the sensor connection. I was then able to feed it through the oven and reconnect all the wiring harnesses.. Getting the oven back in the cabinet was equally a challenge. But it did seem to fix the problem with over heating.

The only tool needed was a nutdriver to remove the lamp socket. I needed my head mounted light to see what I was doing, and everything went smoothly from there. Simple job.

Hubby did the job..all went well except for the arthritis & having to bend pull stove out from wall ,pushing back..ha-ha.

This burner is on a Monarch wood and electric range. The 8in burner shorted out and fried the switch. I had to remove the cover over the switch's. I marked each lead with paper and stapled the paper to the leads. When the switch came in I just had to reattach the leads.