JCAS730M1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

I purchased my stove second hand. It was a mess but I saw a gem under all that dirt and grime. It took me a week and it looked brand new. The end caps on the oven door handle were discolored and cracked. They made the stove look old. It was an easy repair and my stove looks brand new. I will order an extra set just in case as these parts are getting harder and harder to find. I am so pleased with the original parts. They were here with in days and well before promised delivery date.

Identified the switch that went bad. Order a new one and replaced it. The part came in a timely fashion and I am pleased with the result.

Turn off power at main electric panel/ move stove away from wall and unplug cord from outlet. Take knob off the front take two screws off the panel, take back panel off and remove the used switch and take and replace the wiring to the new one , one at a time wire for wire. Then put back tighter in reverse of the way you took it off. Plug in cord and move stove back to the wall. Easy

watched it on parts select this is a real fast and simple install took longer to pull the range out of its position well started by shuting off the power then double checked that the range was deenergized removed the knob then the 2 screws then on the rear of the range removed the back panel about 8 screws used a nut driver then removed the old switch removed each wire one by one and pluged each wire into the new switch just as they were on the old switch the new switch was exactly the same so every thing matched up perfect installed the screws to the front which hold the swich in place then the back cover turned on the power and tested the switch every thing working ok done shut off power slid range back into its place turned power back on everything still ok

Disconnected the power. Removed hex head screws from top and lower rear panel. I think there were 8 all together. Pull the knob of the burner control, removed two screws that held the switch in place. Moved the wires one at a time to the new switch, re-assembled. Burner worked properly. Very easy to find the right part from this web-site, and the instructions from others like this were helpful. Easy fix!

Checked each burner switch by disconnecting the light indicator wire. Located the switch, replaced the switch and the indicator light operated as it should.

I watched your video on the subject and followed it exactly. It explained everything I needed to know. The hardest part was CLEANING under the stove once I pulled it out from the wall!

The person I spoke to knew exactly what I was trying to describe. The part arrived in 2 days. 5 minutes later the drawer was back in place. I was glad I save the screw as the part did not come with one.

My wife could open and close the drawer without too much difficulty, but occasionally, it would not close properly and she would have to empty the contents do could alaign it properly to close. The last time she was talking about buying a whole new drawer. I asked her what the part looked like, as I never to fight with it. I went online and found the part for $1.16 plus shipping at $8 plus. It was well worth the time and effort, and I now have a happy wife. Paul Parker

Disconnected the appliacnce from the power source. Using screwdriver, removed the back panel and disconnected every wire that are connected to the switch. Pulled out the front nob and removed the switch. Then install the new switch by screwing it back in. Place all wires back and back panel. Connect and finish.

Parts arrived in record time and the right parts. The detailed diagram was so helpful in finding exactly the part I needed to order. Was so easy my girlfriend with no mechanical or electrical experience completely helped me through the entire project. She secured the electrical breaker to the range, and I had the top back to the oven removed. I showed her how the little white box simply slides off the lens cover, then replaced the new one in the holes and slide it back on. Secured the back and she turned on the breaker back on...and all lights work. Thanks for making this project easy, simple and quick.

Went online looked up model no and found Part No. and ordered it couple of days It came in mail Cut power to oven took knob off two screws back panel. wired new switch like the old one replced thwe switch and two screws and panel connected the power tried new switch it worked great.

I unpluged the stove pulled it out and took the 6 screws off the back to get to the switch. Around front take knob off and removed the two screws holding the swich in place and pulled it out the back. Pulled one wire at a time off of the old switch and replace on the new switch. Nothing to it had it done in just a few mins.

I took a picture of the setup and damage . I then disconnected the burnt wires and replaced the wires . Then I installed the new terminal block and connected the wires to the proper positions. The reason for the failure was that the delivery people didn't tighten the cord when they installed the stove . I would check the connections periodically as to avoid another situation like this .

The burner light did not turn off, and the rear burner stayed hot. Unplugged unit and removed switch, which turned off the "burner lit" lamp. Thus I figured it was the switch that was causing the problem. Ordered the switch (I think around $18 and plugged it in. I think there were 4 screws to get the panel off, and then another 2 to get the switch off. When I plugged the unit back in (it had been unplugged while I waited for the part to ship) it beeped for a while. I had to turn the breaker on and off, and that solved the beeping problem.