MCBS526WK1WW General Electric Range - Instructions

Found the Model information under the bottom drawer. Googled GE Range and rubber, found this vendor. Amazing, the replacement gasket was exactly as the original. Took the old gasket off with needle nose pliers, there were small metal clamps that had to be pinched together. Once the old gasket was off, the new one practically installed itself. Woman Power!

Baking is MUCH better now!

I first unplugged the stove (alternatively, shut off the breaker). I unscrewed the terminal block screw from the stove top (after removing the stove element and burner bowl). I got in behind and removed the six screws in the sheet metal panel. Removed the panel. Unplugged the terminal block wires for each unit, one at a time, and immediately plugged in the new unit wires (after threading the wires up under the control panel). Wire polarity doesn't matter. Secured the panel temporarily with a couple of screws. Replaced the burner bowls and stove elements in the new terminal blocks. Plugged in the stove and tried each unit. Worked great! Secured the remaining screws in the rear panel and moved the stove back into place. Thanks so much!

replaced lights in refrigirator and freezer

Ordered the part and put it on. My husband hasn't relized that i took care of it yet. One day he might remember to ask if we ever got the part. Very quick delivery.

disassembled bottom trim on oven door.cleaned area of excess rust and installed trim piece.

First I cut the circuit at the breaker, and then pulled the range from wall to access the access panel. This top panel was held with 4 screws and removable with a standard phillips head screwdriver.

I then removed the 5 wire-crimped fasteners from the defective surface burner switch. (I first labeled these wires to ensure correct placement to the new switch). There were an additional two screws behind the corresponding knob that needed to be removed in order to completely remove the old switch.

The new switch was installed in reverse order to the steps indicated above (two screws behind knob, 5 wire-crimped fasteners, 4 screws to panel). Range was pushed back into position and breaker turned on.

popped out the remainder of old lens, then pushed in new ones and slipped on plugs.

I removed the rear lower cover. Disconnected the terminals from the heating element. Removed 2 screws from the heating element from inside the oven. Removed the heating element. Reinstalled everything in reverse order.

Replaced the terminal block and used hi-temp wire connectors to place the new part into the circuit.

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

Followed directions given by previous customers problems which we found on the internet.

Replaced burned element, did not fix no power problem. Ordered receptor replacement, replaced it, took less than 10 mminutes, but still no power to burned. Then ordered replacement switch, replacement too less than 10 minutes again and burner works fine.

I UNPLUGGED THE WIRE, ASSEMBLE THE BURNER ELEMENT KITS
LIFTED UP THE SURFACE BURNER PANEL,
OPENED THE BACK RANGE COVER,
UNSCREW THE NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR, DISCONNECT THE REPLACEMENT WIRES ON THE BACK PANEL
TRACE THE NEW WIRES CLIPS TO THE BACK PANEL & TIGHTEN THEM WITH EXISTING NUTS
SCREW THE OTHER ENDS BACK WITH NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR

Prior repair job had spliced the terminal block wires with electrical tape; electrical tape caught fire while making pasta.

anyways, disconnect all power, remove burners, pull stove out. you'll need a 1/4" drive socket to get the back cover off; six bolts total. phillips head screw driver to unscrew the terminal blocks; replace with new terminal blocks; it did not seem to matter which wire plugged into the back. put everything back together. very easy.

1. Open oven door
2. insert oven racks (perfect fit)
3. close oven door. Done and finished - man am I tired