YRMF3380RM-2 General Electric Range - Instructions

After ordering the proper part with the help of the phone customer service tech, I moved the stove from the wall, unclipped the connector, removed the two screws holding the sensor in place, and removed it. Reversed the above to put it back, and the oven holds perfect temperature.

We took out the philips screws on the right and left side of inside of the oven and two hex head screws on the clip on the top of the oven in the front. Then using a slot screw driver pryed the oven liner out enough to remove old gasket and replace the new gasket. We did see in some online directions that we were suppose to remove entire oven from cabinet and loosen bolts in the back. But, we were able to get enough space to get the old gasket out and new one installed. We did use a 1/4" thick piece of wood on face of oven to prevent any denting of oven when prying out the liner of the oven.

Removed sensor from back wall of oven by removing 2 screws from flange. I could not pull the wire-nut connections out through the small hole and thought I would have to pull the whole oven out of the wall to acess the connections from the back so instead I clipped the wires close to the old sensor and connected the new sensor with the small wire nuts provided, then enlarged the hole in the oven wall, being careful not to pinch the wires then pushed the wire nuts and extra wire back through the hole and put the screws back in the flange.

Took oven door off. Removed screws that were holding oven insert. Pulled out oven insert. Removed old gasket. Installed new gasket. Push oven insert back. Installed screws. Replaced oven door.

Son-in-law unscrewed oven compartment; broken gasket was easy enough to remove and new gasket easy to replace; only problem was oven door would not shut tight. Tried shoving gasket harder into groove, tried turning on oven and heating new gasket to see if it would soften. Finally got it to close by pushing hard on left side of oven and inside light would at least go off and stay off.

Removed oven door (made sure hinges were locked open and stayed open). Remove part on top of trim, removed rusted trim and replaced with new trim. Replaced part on top of trim and screwed all back together. Put oven door back on and unlocked hinges. It was easier than the trial run (when I hadn't realized that the hinges weren't locked open!)

Your support team helped tremendously in ordering the parts. Parts arrived in only 2 days. Upon taking the door off the oven we had to remove several screws, then more screws. Was able to take it almost fully apart, replace old broken parts with new. Putting it back together was like a puzzle. We did it though and saved money! Thanks

Repair went a lot faster and easier than I anticipated. Instructions are similar to those posted by others.
1. Verify that new gasket looks mostly like old gasket as best you can since not all of old gasket is visible.
2. Shut off circuit to oven (optional, but good practice)
3. Remove racks, trays, etc from oven to reduce weight at Step 7
4. Remove oven door by partially opening door to broiler position (about 20 degrees). Door should catch and stay open on its own. Slide up and lift off door. The “hinges” are spring loaded so carefully return them to closed position so they won’t snap shut on fingers.
5. Remove Phillips screws, one on each side wall of oven liner.
6. Remove two hex screws and metal gasket-holder on top center of oven liner.
7. Pull and slide oven liner out of oven mainframe about 1/4 “ to 3/8”. This may be the most difficult part of the job.
8. If possible to remove just a couple of inches of one bottom of old gasket (right side is easiest), verify that the cross-section profile of both old and new gaskets are essentially the same. If not, you have the wrong gasket.
9. Pull and remove old gasket. If gasket is dry and cracking, it may be necessary to scrape it out with putty knife, flat-blade screwdriver, etc. if it has fused to metal over the years. Note how it was installed on the metal edge of the oven liner.
10. Locate the mid-point on the new gasket length and begin inserting it at the top-center of the oven liner where you removed the two hex screws. Continue installing along both left and right sides of the liner. Each end of the gasket should extend to just above the respective hinge. No trimming should be necessary. Ensure a snug fit all along each side and top.
11. Push liner back into oven mainframe. Replace Phillips screws, gasket-holder, and hex screws.
11. Pull out each hinge to broiler position.
12. Replace door by sliding down onto hinges. Close door and check for tight fit against gaskets. Gaskets will flatten somewhat over time
13. Restore power, racks, trays, etc.

Unscrewed eight screws. Removed rusted part. Cleaned area with Windex. Replaced new part.

Very simple. Lift oven door off brackets and set on floor. Remove sheet metal screws holding on existing trim piece, Clean area beneath trim.
Put new trim piece on, don't tighten any of the screws until all have been started as some adjustment is needed to align the holes for the screws.

remove screws, re-install screws

It was pretty simple. Just remove the door as the bottom piece holds all the parts together. Place on table top and remove old trim. Install new trim and install door. The only difficult part was the trim had a space for the glass door front. I opened up the space so that the glass would seat easier. Went together real easy. Stove looks like it's brand new.

disassembled bottom trim on oven door.cleaned area of excess rust and installed trim piece.

Opened oven door removed screw and broken end cap. Replaced with new end cap and put handle back on

remove the door, removed about six screws and did a clean up on the glass. the replacement part was screwed back in place. so easy