GRCR3930TB-1 General Electric Range - Instructions

I pulled the oven door off the hinges and took the bolts out of the bottom of the over that were holding the strip on. I then pulled the strip off and replaced it with the new on. I replaced the bolts and then replaced the door on the hinges.

My son repaired it. I ordered the parts thinking I could repair it but it was way beyond my ability.

I pretty much followed the youtube video posted under the part that I needed. Turned off electricity to that area of the house. Unplugged stove. Took out the old sensor, pushed new sensor cord through the back hole. I did put a small amount of tape,so I could pull it through from the back better. It was impossible to get the clip disconnected in the back and the new clip didn't match up correctly anyway. Ended up having to cut the wires and strip them. I twisted them together and put on the ceramic wire nuts on. Reversed ever thing I did and F3 appeared. Looked that code up on internet. It was from an open or shorted oven. Suggested I check the connections. Pulled stove out again, unscrewed caps on wires and noticed the sensor's wire had another cloth type coating on it. I gentle cut that off, twisted and capped wires again. Plugged in oven, turn on electricity, and tried out stove. Everything is working just fine. Everything took a little longer because this was first time doing this type of repair.

Removed the two screws that hold the range top down. Lifted up yhe range top and propped with a stick. Proceeded to mark the wires connected to the old burner so that the new one would be connected correctly. Removed the wires and then the two brackets that hold the burner in place. Removed the old burner and installed the new one. Connected the wires and resecured top to base. Turned on the current and it worked beautifully.

Had to take back off of the door to get to screw that held the broken piece of handle before installing the new part. Then had to put the back on the door and slip the door into place.

Very simple repair. Remove two screws to lift the range top. Then remove the two screws holding the element in place. Disconnect the wires from the old element, connect the wires to the new element. Reverse the procedure and you are done. Total time is anywhere from 15 to 30 minutes.

just replace the end cap with a new one all that was involue was to screw the new one in took about ten minutes and job done better than buying a new stove when the stove is still just like new. thank you for your on line help.

Turn off power to cook top. Remove 2 screws that hold the cook top to countertop. Lift complete cook top from counter and place diagonally across opening. Remove 10 screws that hold glass top to the component cabinet. Make a diagram of wiring to element. Disconnect wires. Remove 2 mounting brackets from bottom of old element and position them on new element and screw tight. Wire new element as diagrammed earlier. Replace glass top on component cabinet and reinstall 10 screws. Place unit back into counter opening and secure with 2 straps. Turn power back on. Stand back and enjoy your accomplishment.

after removing the two screws that are just inside the oven, I propted the top open with the box that the part came in. I drew and labeled the wires as I took them off using a color coding. next I removed the two clips that held the burner in place and marked on the new burner exactly where the clips were attached. Replacing the clips was possibly the hardest part of the whole operation. When you replace the burner, don't forget to replace the insulation pad that is stuck one the metal where the conections are. I missed this and had to reopen the stovetop and slid it on after I was finished. Otherwise it went pretty smooth.

Took off the inside ( this allowed me to clean the glass) panel. Removed the two end parts with a screw driver. Replace the parts and we were good to go.

I attached the end caps to my existing handle, but had to squeeze the parts together very hard to get them to mesh to the correct distance of the holes. I removed the screws holding outside frame of the oven door. I then opened the door fully, propping it up on my knee and removed the inside end cap screws. Placing the handle in position underneath the propped door, I attached the screws. Lastly I reassembled the door.

I removed the screws from the underside of the stovetop, lifted up the top, propped it up to keep it from falling (using a large book), and removed the old burner by unscrewing it from the top and removing the wire connections. I then screwed the new burner into the top, and attached the wires back to the burner, dropped the top down (gently and carefully, of course), and screwed the top back down to the rest of the stove. It was fairly quick and painless. Although, putting the stove back into his position was not easy, but that was no fault of the stove!!

Lid Switch.
Rewiring connection.
Function is satisfactory.
Fan belt ordered is saved.
A 1970 Clothes Washer.

Watched the video on the PartSelect site. Could not have been an easier repair and I saved the cost of a service call - probably saved at least $100 - $150 in service call and I can only guess what the labor cost would have been. Will use this business again for other appliance repairs on my older stove, washer, etc. By the way - the official Kenmore site said this part was no longer made and unavailable --- Thank you PartSelect for having the part and saving me the cost of buying a new stove!

We ordered the part from Part Select, got it within a week and replaced the door.
It is a little tricky because one has to dismantle the entire door to do the repair (inside screw to undo).
You'd preferably be 2 to do the repair, although one can manage.