RGB525DED2BB General Electric Range - Instructions

Had to use the wire nuts because the plug did not fit.
I used the old plug and spliced the wires.Thanks for the ceramic wire nuts.

removed the screws that held element in place, pulled out old igniter and replaced with new one.

Took bottom cover in oven off with screwdriver . Then remove two small bolts with socket to igniter , unplug from under stove and pull out from inside oven. Reverse to install. Wala done and working great.

Every part of the part replacement was easy with the exception of removing one of the two screws that were holding the igniter to gas bar. No fault of the part to be replaced in any way. One of the screws that hold the igniter to the gas bar stripped when I was attempting to remove it. Had to use a small cut off wheel and my dremel to cut the screw and then was able to remove it by screwing it all the way through the hole it was in. Then tapped the two existing screw holes to 10/32 and attached the igniter with new screws. Everything else was about as easy as you can get.

Old school, so I first thought it had to be a thermostat, but realized it did not have a pilot light, but an igniter. Read a few stories of others who had the same issue. Ordered the part, came in early. By that time I knew what I had to do to replace it. Only issue was the part came with a male connector when the original was female. But part came with a couple of ceramic wire nuts, so I guess that is not uncommon. Cut the connectors off and used the wirenuts. Oven is working well.

This is a wall mounted oven. Quickly removed the door off hinges (no tools needed). Removed two mounting philips head screws from old igniter. Pulled on wires from the old igniter from back of oven to expose connectors. Disconnected the old igniter. Because the new igniter had a different type of connector, I had to cut connectors off the oven wires as well as the new igniter and use the provided wire nuts. I stuffed the wires back into the back wall of the oven and repositioned the insulation, secured the new igniter and put the door back on. Job done, oven works fine.

First removed 3 screws at burner front and back then pulled out lower storage drawer to disconnect plastic connector, removed and had to cut plastic connectors to use ceramic wire nuts (supplied with parts box) I had to work from underneath stove as well as in the oven it self, if the main door is easily removable it would have helped a great deal but four hours later

Needed to replace the part in oven which lights the gas. My husband is more of a supervisor rather than a fix it yourself kind of guy. But he did it and it was hilarious watching him squeeze in a place meant for a smaller person with tiny hands, while holding the flashlight in his mouth. But the oven is fixed and works like brand new. Thank you

I unplugged the power then removed the shield from in front of the valve location. I removed the wire shield and pulled the wire connector into the burner area. I unplugged the wire then removed the burner frame pulling it out, I removed and re-installed the igniter kit. I also had to cut the connector from the from the old igniter (about 3" up)then remove the connector from the new (cutting flush to that connector) and switched out the connectors using the porcelane wire ties provided with the new unit. I then re-installed the burner frame making certain that the wires were in the proper location. I plugged the connectors together ensuring proper locking, pushed the wires back into the hole, replaced the wire shield and then the valve cover shield. Restored power the igniter lit brightly and approximately 4-5 seconds later the oven burner lit. I checked connector because another person on the site stated that it may be the wrong one and that the wire connectors would be sent in case that were so.

Took out bottom of oven, took apart burner & cover. Replace the igniter, , put back together. BAM

two 1/4 inch screws took oven tray out....two 1/4 inch screws took out ignitor..the replacement would not plug into the wiring, so I cut the plastic plug off and wire nutted ends together..baked cookies after!!!!

First I took off the oven door which was a snap. Then I removed the bottom drawer. I removed the i guess you would call it the spill pan which was two screws. removed the guard plate and disconnect the igniter and remove the two screws that was holding it in place. Peace of cake.

I went on youtube and found videos for similar problems. Then was shown how to test the part to confirm if it was good or bad. After testing with an amp meter I confirmed that the ignighter was bad. I ordered the part and got it in 3 days. I put in the new ignighter turned on the oven and placed inside the oven a temperature gage, when the timer rang on the stove confirming that the oven was up to temperature, I opened the oven door and the temperature gage read 350 deg. exactly the temperature I had set. So for under 50.00 I fixed the oven, a service call would of been 80.00 plus parts. Thanks for the help. Bob Murphy

Removed lower oven panel and replaced oven igniter.

igniter was not glowing bright...removed old one and installed new one all within 30 mins.Part was exactly as description and picture really helped. Turkey for Thanksgiving will be served cooked by my oven.Thanks.. Daniel