JNM7196BL1TS General Electric Range - Instructions

First, unplug microwave. Unscrew two screws at top of microwave, slide grill cover left and remove. This allows access to single screw holding control panel. Remove this screw and lift up control panel to remove. Secondary door switch is black switch at lowest position. The switch is held in place by a lever in back and very hard to get to. Remove the wires plugged into the switch, then remove two screws holding the plastic switch mount that holds all three switches. These screws use a "star" type screwdriver. Once the plastic mount is free, lift it up, right, and tip it slightly to find the lever that will release the black secondary door switch (the lowest switch)...release the broken switch, snap the new switch in its place. Replace the plastic mount by lifting and replacing back into position and replace the two "star" screws. Now, replace the wires onto the new switch, and test operation. Replace control panel, and top grill. It goes faster than it writes...getting the old switch out through that difficult to reach lever was the hardest part...still less than thirty minutes.

Removed the microwave with the buit in housing from the cabinet. Removed microwave from built in housing. Removed outer cabinet giving access to remove control panel and smart board where switches are located. Removed control panel to get to smartboard. Removed smart board after disconnecting a few wires to allow easy removal. Individually removed and then tested each switch using multimeter. Found seondary Door Switch (bottom of smart board) operation to be intermittent (switch trip button extremely loose and rattle inside this particular switch) Ordered replacement part which came very quickly on standard shipping order. Put new switch on smart board and remounted, reinstalled control panel and reconnected various wire connectors previously disconnected. Then plugged in oven and tested for opertation - didn't work at all! But, after bleeding off capacior charge by removing connectors and discharging capacitor to ground, then reassembling control board and smart board into oven, then trying agian, it has worked perfectly ever since. Do not understand why capacitor disconnect/discharge was required but suspect this reset the control electronics. Easy fix and hope to get another 12 years out of this appliance which is used multiple times every day. Also have two other identical micorwave ovens, one is 20 years old, but these get used relatively infrequently.

Changing 2 lightbulbs is NOT ROCKRT SCIENCE. With a screw-driver, remove the under MW light lens, unscrew the 2 burned out light bulbs, and replace with 2 new quality light bulbs. Test out that both are lite and working as they should, replace the lens and you are done, Until you find out one of the new (made in Chins) light bulbs is burned out after about 6 hours of being lite, call the parts phonr number and order a new replace bulb.

Because the microwave is old and the bulbs, I believe, had never been changed I carefully tried to unscrew the bulb. However, when I went to unscrew the bulbs the end of the bulb broke off and remained in the socket. I used a few different tools then remembered that sometimes a raw potatoe can be used to unscrew the remainder of the bulb, but to no avail. Finally had to unscrew the whole underside of the microwave to remove the broken bulb. May I suggest that you have the socket face away from the wall to screw in the bulb instead of the socket pointing toward the wall. You need to know yoga just to manuver the bulb into the socket.

Turn off main power bracker. Removed fan vent, removed control panel, disconnect leads to the three monitor switches. Replaced the secondary switch (top). Reversed procedures.

Removed 5 screws from the bottom of the over the range microwave to expose the light sockets. Removed the 1 screw holding the socket, disconnected the wires. Attached the wires to the new socket, Put in the bulb, reattached it with the screw. Repeated on the other light... It took about 20 minutes and now the lights work just like they should :)

The order was easy and promptly received. I lowered the cover by removing retainer screws underneath. Simply lowered it and removed the broken glass and replaced it. The bulb was broken and the base of it was stuck in the socket. I didn't bother to remove it because the socket was brittle. I disconnected the socket by unplugging the wires, removing the retainer screws,and removing it. I replaced it with the new one. Screwed in the bulb. I replaced the cover and it was done. Ps: I used an Hitachi cordless screwdriver, which greatly helped when doing this alone.

Unplugged microwave before doing anything.Removed 6 screws holding the bottom of the microwave on. Disconnected 1 wire connector connecting the light sockets.Removed 1 screw on each socket to remove and install new socket. Reconnect the 1 wire connector and reinstall the 6 screws holding the bottom of the microwave on. Removed 1 screw holding the glass lens in place on each light and installed 1 bulb in each and reinstall 1 screw in each lens. Replug power cord. DONE !!

After discovering Parts Select website and reading the experiences and installation instructions of others with similar experiences, it gave me the confidence to give it a try. I order the parts, and in a few days, they arrived. I did the following, as read from others: 1. unscrewed the 5 screws on bottom panel of microwave. 2. Had wife hold panel while I unscrewed the 1 screw holding the lamp socket 3. Pulled lamp socket out of hole 4. Used needle nose pliers to pull wiring from old lamp socket 5. plugged the two wires into new lamp socket 6. removed old bulbs (which would have been a nightmare to do by just dropping down the bulb cover - bulb had been factored glued to lamp socket and even after I removed the glue, the bulb still broke when trying to remove the bulb - had to use needle nose pliers to unscrew the base of the broken bulb) 7. placed lamp socket with new bulb back into its slot and screwed the one screw holding the lamp socket back 8. screwed back in the 5 screws that held the bottom panel.

As suggested, I placed a towel over the stove. Only had 3 main screws to remove from bottom of microwave. Dropped the bottom and changed the sockets and light bulbs. After replacing the bottom tray, I put the new glass light lens in. The clips on glass holder bent back like a photo frame-really easy. Turned on the lights and was done.

Replaced light socket and bulb. Real easy repair.

replace socket

First, there are three door operated switches in this model. The monitor sw, the secondary sw (both of these are on the bottom in the same bracket) and the door sensing sw on top. The door sensing and secondary switches are both N.O. and have the same part number (probably why you show just two switches). The monitor sw is N.C. and it was not my problem. The secondary sw was bad on my oven but I had replaced the door sensing sw (which wasn't bad) on a previous order and kept the old one so I used it to make the repair. All three switches can be accessed without removing the oven by removing the discharge louver (remove two flat head screws on top and slide the louver to the left) then carefully remove the control panel (one screw on top and lift out). The switches are held in place by a plastic tongue that fits into the rear mounting hole on the switch. I used a common screw driver with a small tip to gently lift the tongue and slide the switch out with needle nose pliers. The new switch just snaps back in. The switch holder bracket looks like it would be easily broken so be gentle. I don't know what the symptoms would be if either of the other switches were bad so I would recommend buying all three and you would have them if one of the others failed in the future. The information I gave on the switches came from a schematic I found inside the control box. Hope this is helpful.

every thing is working, but no hot

Opened the microwave oven door, unscrewed two screws which held the control panel on, then I removed two of the door switches (each had two screws), and then used the continuity tester to see which one was not operating. It turned out to be the secondary door switch, replaced it and to my amazement, the microwave worked. I have never repaired an appliance before but I didn't want to replace our over-the-stove built in microwave. It was the best day ever when it was working again! The hardest part was getting myself to try the repair.