JNM7196BL1TS General Electric Range - Instructions

This was a super easy repair job. I couldn't figure out how the lens that covered the light bulb would have cracked and realized it must have been from my contractor when he replaced my stove. I can't prove it, of course, so I am left doing the repairs. The website was very easy to order from and confirm that I had the correct parts as the model numbers tend to change over time.

Loosen screw holding glass cover plate in place over bulb. Glass cover plate will swing down. Unscrew bad bulb, replace with good bulb, reset glass cover and tighten screw.

It wasn’t the magnetron.
It wasn’t the diode.
It wasn’t just the fuse.
It was the High Voltage Capacitor (HVC). You know, the very thing they warn you about when opening the microwave. Just remember to discharge it using needle-nose pliers before probing around to find the problem. I also suggest you invest in a multimeter so as not to waste hundreds of dollars like I did; that way you can go straight to the real problem instead of replacing symptoms. If you replace the HVC, you will also want to replace the two fuses right in front of it. Also, there is a wiring diagram and a troubleshooting flowchart tucked behind the front console near the top. It is extremely useful!

The switches are not the problem! The problem is in the tolerences of the latch housing. I have ordered two new housings (Upper & Lower) and will see if the tolerences are closer. If not I will try epoxying a shim to the plate that operates the microswitches. The other option is to file the mounting slots of the housing to allow adjustment, which would be iffy,keeping them from moving with use. The exploded drawings really need to be clarified. The scale is way too small. It was extremely difficult to pick out the individual parts of the mechanisiam.

Open the box.. unwraped excessive bubble wrap.. placed in microwave.. Did'nt even break a sweat..

All electrical worked (fan, lights, control panel) door switch was broke. Pulled the oven out. Took out two big screws from the cabinet above. (be careful not to drop oven)Set the oven on kitchen counter. Took off five screws that held the vent cover. Removed vent cover. Took out one screw that held the control panel. Lifted, turned and slid the panel into the space below so I could get to the upper door switch. Replace door switch and re-assemble.

took of cover removed switch and replaced with new one

Rather than open access door took off bottom (5 screws) This gave more room as the microwave is mounted under the wall cabinets over the stove.

I unscrewed the entire undersurface of the microwave (I didn't do this before!) and replaced the light socket. Easy job and I'm glad the part was still available.

I was told by 2 different appliance technicians that the crumbled/melted light socket could not be replaced which meant replacing the entire microwave (expensive!). Other posters on your sight described the repair steps and I gave it a try. The hardest part was probably figuring out which switch in the fuse box belonged to it (now marked clearly). It was a simple matter of unscrewing the bottom panel of the microwave to access the socket, pulling the crumbled/melted unit off and shoving the new one on. I can't believe the repairmen didn't want any part of even giving it a try.

Took cover off, noted the two side by side switches easily visible and we hought one of these was responsible. Then son noted a third switch at the top of the plastic assembly which inserts at an odd angle. When it was inspected signs of a previous short showed up with burnt contact points. Reinserted at same odd angle as there were guide holes, closed things up and oven worked 100%. Great prompt service and great website!! We will use you again

I removed the unit from the wall removed the top two screws holding the panel above the door I the two screws holding the control panel removed the three switchs I found the top one to be blown and replaced it

Primary door switch was shorted and blew the fuse when the oven was plugged in. Replaced primary door interlock switch.

first i remove the screw, then removed the lens assembly (really a frame) bent the feet out of the way, slid the old lens out and the new one in, bent the feet back in place and inserted the assembly into place replaced screw. the killer is a day later it was broken again, think the lens can't handle the heat from the oven below or the lights above. you guys where great fast and exact match part but the ge design is flawed

Removed control panel first then removed bracket holding door switches 8 screws total very easy fix ????