JB860DJ4BB General Electric Range - Instructions

I viewed the video available through part-select. The most important thing I learned to do was to change one wire at a time instead of removing the old switch completely and then installing the new one. With 5 wires involved, it was really simple to install and not have to remember which wire went where. I was surprised how easy it was and it works wonderfully!

Disconnect power, then remove racks from oven, locate heat sensor by the broiler element. Use ratchet with extension and correct socket to remove the bolt directly under the heat sensor, pull the sensor out till you see the plug, disconnect the plug and then connect new sensor to it push wire back thru and then rebolt the new sensor on, thats it...

I changed out the sensor and still same problem. Change out Thermosat and still same problem.
I call the help number and emailed the help but I got nothing but have to many calls because of the virus situation.
Still need help.
I’m an electrician and I don’t want to call a service technician and pay that big bill.
Can anyone there help me out, if so please call.
Ike Stanton
678-525-6644

This should have been a very easy fix. But, as I tried to pull out the old temperature sensor, the wire would not come out. I was afraid to pull too hard because I did not want to break the wire. So, I coxed it out easily until I could see the plastic connector. Then, the old wire pulled free from the connector leaving the end of the connector inside the back of the oven. I then had to fish the end of the wire around with the piece of wire through the very small hole in the back of the oven. Once I got it close to the hole, I was able to grab the connector with some needle nose plyers. Connecting the new sensor and reinstalling everything was easy and the oven now works just fine.

Pulled the oven out and unplugged it. Removed five screws and the back cover. Disconnected the electrical connection. Removed one screw and pulled the sensor out. Installed the sensor and screw. Made the electrical connection on the back, replaced the cover and five screws. Plugged the electrical cord back in and tested the oven temperature compared to the setting. Worked great. My wife then made a small batch of muffins to test it out and they were good.

I just followed the instructions on the link provided with the part

Replaced infinity switch: unplugged stove;. Removed upper back panel (4 small screws using socket wrench. Appropriate size box wrench would be fine, too); pulled off burner control dial. Removed 2 small screws with phillips screwdriver. From back of stove noted position of infinity switch . Replaced wires, 1 at a time, onto new switch. Pushed new switch
into same position as old switch. Secured with the previously removed screws. Replaced the control dial. Replaced upper back panel of stove.

Remove cover on back remove two screws for switch and take picture of wire placement install new switch put all back together
U. Plug stove first . Was really easy to do now have room do a other burner

Turned off power to the oven, Removed the oven light housing, installed new housing, turned power on and walla.

took off cover, pulled all wires off switch, pushed wires on new switch, put cover back on. Whalaa..

Not counting unplugging it and taking off the 3 back panels of the oven (< 5 min.) It took < 2min. to change out. Unclipped cable in back, unscrewed one screw inside of oven at top between the two elements and pulled cable through to front, reversed to attach new sensor. Buttoned up the back, plugged back in and was good to go.

Open the oven , remove one screw holding the sensor remove the sensor and replace the sensor.

I looked everywhere for this part before I came upo9n this site. I found the part from their very well done website. Even had a picture so you could compare to what you have. It was an easy repair. I had been quoted over $200 to repair by a local repair place. Instead it was around $25 and 15 minutes to repair. This is the right site for any part you may need. I have a magnetic card they sent so in the future, if I need anything (and I will !) I can go right to the right place . Thanks also for a very prompt delivery.

Safety first * Unplugged 220 VAC from outlet. Removed shield cover screws with 1/4" hex nut driver (5 screws). Removed all 6 silver screws from terminal block with 1/4" nut driver, freeing all wires. Removed the green ground screw and ground bracket from center terminal. Cut away (using the drill) melted original terminal block plastic to access the 2 black 1/4" nuts holding original terminal block onto appliance. Discarded the original damaged terminal block. Attached the new terminal block, aligning the mounting holes and the terminal block the same way the original terminal block was lined up and re-used the black 1/4" nuts (original used because the replacement package did not include new black screws). I bought a new appliance cord, since the original cord overheated. Reattached all wires using the 6 new silver screws. Start with the middle terminal by attaching the appliance wires and the ground bracket. The ground must be attached to the bracket and the bracket bridges between the terminal block and the range body. Reattached shield cover. Plugged in appliance. Note: it doesn't matter which outside wire attaches to the outside terminals (both are hot), but the middle wire (neutral) must attach to the middle terminal. However, the ring terminal should be flush on the terminal block so you don't bend the ring.

Disconnect old burner and reconnect new one