JB655EK2ES General Electric Range - Instructions

Talked to parts select tech after ordering the control board. Tech advised me that he felt the range could be repaired without installing any parts. Advised me to contact manufacture tech support and explain the problem. I did to find that the child safety lock was on, probably from cleaning and touching too many buttons at once while whipping surface. Told me to hold down + and - at the same time for three seconds and it was fixed.
Parts select tech had told me don’t worry the parts are guaranteed so I called for a RMA and returned the parts for a refund. Thanks Parts Select, y’all are real professionals and that is greatly appreciated.
Thank you all.

This should have been a very easy fix. But, as I tried to pull out the old temperature sensor, the wire would not come out. I was afraid to pull too hard because I did not want to break the wire. So, I coxed it out easily until I could see the plastic connector. Then, the old wire pulled free from the connector leaving the end of the connector inside the back of the oven. I then had to fish the end of the wire around with the piece of wire through the very small hole in the back of the oven. Once I got it close to the hole, I was able to grab the connector with some needle nose plyers. Connecting the new sensor and reinstalling everything was easy and the oven now works just fine.

The new element didn’t come with instructions, but a previous customer had left a review on the website that he had found a helpful YouTube video. So, I also found a video that walked me right through the steps.

Performed repair using a video for reference.

Found instructions on you tube. Easy as I,2, 3. Total of eight screws to remove, then unplug and replace the handle. First kill the power to your range before starting the repair.

The burner remained on high regardless of the position of the control. 1. Unplug the range. 2. From the back of the range control panel, remove the top-plate that covers the controls. (4 screws) 3. Remove the two screws that hold the control knob in place. 4. Move ONE WIRE AT A TIME from the old control knob to the new gripping the connector only (do NOT pull the wire). 5. Remount the controller and reassemble the back cover with four screws. 6. reconnect the range and test.

Disconnected power supply, removed control panel mounting screws with 1/4 inch nut driver, removed small phillips screws under control panel, pulled off control knob, then removed two phillips screws holding control switch to control panel. Verified replacement switch was identical to malfunctioning switch. Removed wires attached to old switch, one at a time, and attached to new switch as each removed. Wires don’t appear to be labeled or color coded so be sure to relocate wires one at a time. Reassembly was reverse of disassembly.

Unplug the range, remove the screws on the top third of the rear cover, remove two screws from the controller on the front side of the range, hold the rear cover open and pull the controller out of the back of the range, then unplug the two connectors from old controller. Plug the connectors into new controller, secure controller with screws on the front of the range, replace the screws on the rear cover, plug the range in.

Watched youtube video. Very easy to replace

My husband and I watched a couple of videos we googled. Once we had a clue we took the top of the stove off. The glass is the whole top, not just glass, and doesn't come with the elements. We marked where each clip was and drew numbers on the elements in order to put them back exactly as they came out. Putting it back together, there are 2 plastic clips, one on each side that we had to get the upper part back on. It wasn't an easy job but we successfully repaired the stove back to new condition.

Remove cover on back remove two screws for switch and take picture of wire placement install new switch put all back together
U. Plug stove first . Was really easy to do now have room do a other burner

Being a front burner, I used a 24 in piece of wood to hold up range top. After removing to screws holding top. Made note of numbers on old burner and wire locations. Took off wires and three spring clips. Then replaced with new in numbered locations , wires next

I am not the handiest person in the world, and this repair was easy even for me. If you suspect that the temperature sensor is the problem, do yourself a favor and buy this inexpensive replacement part and install it yourself prior to calling a professional who will charge a service fee just for checking it out. Pull your oven out from the wall so you can access the back. Unscrew the small nuts on the back to remove the sheet metal cover. Find the wire that goes to the sensor and unplug the plastic coupling. In the oven, unscrew the one nut that secures the sensor to the back wall of the oven. Pull the broken sensor out and replace it with the new sensor. Feed the wire through to the back and plug the new sensor into the same wire that was just disconnected. Reinstall all of the nuts. Do a "test cook" on some frozen food to ensure that the temperature seems correct (i.e., does it cook as expected in the recommended amount of time). The actual repair takes less than five minutes. I put "30-60 minutes" to account for unplugging the oven, pulling it out, removing the screws, replacing the screws, pushing it back in, and testing the temperature.

I just removed the drawer and installed the rear supports as instructed on paper included with the part.

First I cut the circuit at the breaker, and then pulled the range from wall to access the access panel. This top panel was held with 4 screws and removable with a standard phillips head screwdriver.

I then removed the 5 wire-crimped fasteners from the defective surface burner switch. (I first labeled these wires to ensure correct placement to the new switch). There were an additional two screws behind the corresponding knob that needed to be removed in order to completely remove the old switch.

The new switch was installed in reverse order to the steps indicated above (two screws behind knob, 5 wire-crimped fasteners, 4 screws to panel). Range was pushed back into position and breaker turned on.