JBS55DM2WW General Electric Range - Instructions

First I removed the screws and popped off the existing element. One of the wires "disappeared" back into the insulation, so I had to remove the back panel of the oven to access that wire and push it back through the opening. Then I attached the new element to the wires and replaced the finishing screws.

We ordered the part, it arrived quickly my husband removed the burnt out element. We took the back off the stove in order to install the new part. It was easier to connect from the back than reach in to the oven. An easy repair and the stove works fine now.

First I turned off breaker, pulled out oven unplugged/or dissconnected electricity to oven, unscrewed broken element in oven, unscrewed back panel of oven to disconnect 2 wires from element, and replaced with new element, then repeated the above in reverse.
Very easy for a typical DYI person.

First cut the power at the breaker and then removed the rear panel of the range. Then removed the two retaninig screws in the oven and then unplugged the old element in the back. Cleaned out the molten metal and remains of dinner and installed new element same way the old one came out and voila, oven is back in operation.

replaced handle, which was an exact fit and very easy.

PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.

I watched a video of a similar model to familiarize myself with the required steps needed. I opened the back and disconnected the power cord and ground wires connected to the removable socket I then removed the lightbulb and removable socket from the oven interior side. I then removed the defective light socket cup and replaced it with the part I purchased. After replacing the removable socket and lightbulb, the bracket holding the light cover functioned perfectly with the new light socket cup. Final steps were to reconnect the power and ground wires to the removable socket. I then replaced the back cover over the light socket cup area. One word of advise. Be very careful when removing and reconnecting the cables to the removable light socket.

This was simple enough to repair for me, a relative novice. Just remember you need a nut driver to take the back panel off, take a photo of the existing board so you remember which wires go where, and you definitely need a hair dryer to heat up the sticker on the old board so you can remove it and put it on the new board.

Remove screws on bake element and on back cover to wires (unplug unit first) remove terminal ends , replace element put cover back on and screw in element hold down screws.

No parts dealer had a window for this particular oven door. But the associate at Part Select helped me find one that was the right dimensions. The internet videos I found describing installation of a GE oven glass window all described a glass held in place with brackets that don't exist on this model. The broken window was obviously held in place by adhesive. I found a video showing installation a Whirlpool oven window. The construction of the door seemed very similar to mine and the video explained how to attach the window inside the door with high temperature resistant double sided tape. I used Gizhome 3M Double sided Tap. I set door flat on a table unscrewed all the screw (two different size torque screws and 3 screws with nut tops) that held the outer cover to the door. Then I used a putty knife to scrap the old adhesive from the outer door frame. The top of the window is held in place by the metal panel behind the oven door handle. In order to slip the glass under the metal panel I slightly loosened two small screws that held the metal to the door frame. When the door handle is reinstalled it will hold the panel in place. I attached a strip of double sided tape across the entire area that I had scraped adhesive from. I added a short strip of double sided tap on both sides of the window frame, (I'm not certain that was a good idea). I carefully slipped the glass under the metal panel and lowered it to the frame while watching for exact fit. When I tightened the large door handle screws they tightened the metal snugly against the glass. I clamped the glass to the frame at the bottum and placed several bottles of water as weights along the sides of the frame and let the adhesive cure for 24 hours. The project took me several hours because of all the research I had to do. I was thankful for the parts associate's help finding a comparable window.

I ended up having to re-move the back panel on the stove to access one of the wires, so that I could pull the hot wire back through the inside of the oven. The connection to the bake element was then made simple and easy. My time lost was removing the back panel and re-installation. I can not complain about the repair problem. I saved at least a couple hundred bucks. So that's my story. Thanks for the response in expediting my order of the exact bake element.

I began by turning off the breaker in the panel.
Slide the oven out into the open area.
Removed 3 screws in order to remove rear top panel.
Took 2 pictures of the wiring location on the PCB
Removed all wiring going to the circuit board total of 8.
Removed 4 screws in order to remove bad PCB.
Remove faceplate from bad PCB (you will need to place this faceplate on the new PCB.

To Install.
Reverse steps above

Remove old stained gasket and replaced with new. Only $57.00!

This one is simple. unscrew a portion of the door, install the spacer and screw back together. Worked well.

One wire at at time then used my razor blade to get front off stuck right back on